Getting a good suspension setup for the Type-R in the near future. I put about 30,000mi a year on my car, but I want to start tracking it ALOT. I could give a crap about comfort as long as the car will be able to still safely perform on the street. I know 30,000 is a good bit of miles, but I'm right at 19 years old so I can take it. Would like to know what you guys run a what kind of racing you mainly do. I would like to stay pretty close to the R's current balance with a little more tail happiness, but not much. Thanks in advance.

 

I currently run 500f/450r ground control coil overs. Do mostly track days on street tires. Seems to handle really well. Not to rough for daily driver. Getting race tires soon so should be interesting how it will affect me at the track. The GC's seem to be the best bang for the buck and you can get any spring rate that you want for an additional 40 bucks. I know that most guys say go to a true coil-over set up but my pockets aren't that deep. Theese are the the best alternative.

 

I am running 550f/600r Eibach ERS on Illuminas/Carrera coilover sleeves. If my shocks were better equipped for the rates the ride would be comfy. Right now it is rather bouncy but not harsh.

 

Up to 600/700# setups can be quite streetable with good shocks. I have 400f/550r on my Integra with off the self Konis and the ride sux. Recently I drove a freind's Civic for close to 500 miles with 650f/700r with Advance Design shocks and the ride was much better. Still stiff, but the shocks were valved to handle the hhigh rates and it was very solid. Both cars have ERS linear rate springs.

Moral of the story, wanna have a good riding car on stiff springs, don't cheap out on the shocks.

 

eek.. what are the koni yellow limits before the ride quality turns to crap?

 

I have neuspeed race springs and neuspeed koni yellows and my ride is still a little bouncy. I'm not sure of the spring rates as neuspeed will do anything to get out of tell you this. If i knew what i know now i would have gotten custom rates, i might still. I'll have to see how my car handles on a track first and go from there, cause street tests don't really count.

 

I use H&R sport up front all the way down on Koni Yellows, and H&R race in the back lowered 1 "notch" on the Koni yellow spring perch. While this is a very tame race suspension, its really nice on the street, and the higher rear spring rate helps rotate the back around nicely. the combination lowers the car 2.25 in front and back. Im going to put the race springs up fornt to see if it improves turn in more and how hospitable it is on the crummy Minnesota streets.

 

i went to ground control and they sid they wouldnt sell me 6" springs with 450 rear spring rates cause they were afraid my *** would fly out when driving.

 

What? Is that because the 6 inch spring is too short for your car?

Otherwise what would be GCs business on how you like your setup? Then definitely forget GC and look elsewhere if it's not the first case...

 

Zsolt, so are you saying your off-the-shelf Koni yellows can't adequately dampen the spring rates you have? Popular wisdom would suggest that OTS Koni yellows would be able to handle your springs rates -- 550 to 600 lbs. being the max they can handle.

 

My understanding from Koni is that OTS Yellows can handle about 450# and that is it.

Mike

 

I was actually going to guess that Koni yellows really only handle 350, maybe 400. At a spring rate of 500# / corner, my Koni yellows are beyond their maximum functional capacity.

 

Maybe that's why my ride is still bouncy. As i stated above neuspeed doesn't like to disclose their spring rates. I have neuspeed race springs and neuspeed koni yellows, i've heard from several different people that they are close if not over 500#. Anyone else have info on this?

 

I searched around and found out before I purchased my Neuspeed race springs that they are 500F/450R. Yours are probably a similar rate, slightly front biased.

 

Has anyone here had their Konis rebuilt and revalved by Truechoice?

 

Yes, that's who revalves our Konis.

 

If you are looking for a little more oversteer, try a larger rear sway bar and/or possibly a smaller front bar. These will not affect the ride of the car but will affect the attitude in a corner.

 

How much does it cost you have konis revalved? I really want to get the bounce out of my ride and down the road i may want higer spring rates. Oh and can someone explain to me the pull zip tie trick? I read about it along time ago but don't remember what to do.

Travis

 

Zip tie around the damper piston rod near the top of the damper body, it will move up to your max bump travel. Revalve = $125.00

 

Does revalving also pretty much rebuild the shock too?

 

I hope that's for all four shocks in a set... Otherwise, that would be as much as they cost new!

 

I'm pretty sure it's $125 / shock.

 

Yes it is around that much per shock unfortunately. Most people revalve/rebuild the Koni 3011s or the 2811/2812s series which are all models of the inverted race only Koni shocks that cost around $1100-2500+ per set. Shocks can get pretty expensive!

 

Im guessing the zip tie thing is just used as an indicator of how much shock travel you use. commonly done on front motorcycle forks to set sag. however, why not just push your bumpstops down and use them as your indicator???

 

I think the ziptie reference was for coilovers that will clunk when they are unloaded and reload in the spring housing.