<U>please read this.....................is s2 right or ht right?</U>

i ordered a set of s2p2 cams last night with standard comp valves (they have high comp valves but they did not list what they consider to be high comp). anyway, went ahead and got that with the the valvetrain.

heres the problem:

after i ordered, i called skunk2 and i finally got through to someone that actually gave me some info. ( ive called there 6 times in the past two days and everytime i ask something the lady tells me "do you have access to the internet?" followed by "its on the internet." ) i told the guy that the cams would be going into an itr but he was persistant to tell me that those cams needed more compression. i told him that i would be running a thin layered headgasket but he still told me they needed high compression valves. but what does that have to do with anything? he was telling me that those valves would add a **** ton of compression. its my understanding that even if you go with flat valves you would probably only pick up a little compression. at the end of it all, Dr. Charles (supposedly there head tech over there that builds all of there cars) told me that i couldnt run pro 2s in my engine setup.

i am so confused..................seems as though others on ht are running these fine with itr motors, but s2 is telling me NOOOOO in big bold letters.

can someone tell me the deal is?

 

Figures..

Crane/skunk2/crower i've had problems with their people skills serious..

their products are absoulately great, i love their products but their people skills = obx.

 

I would run Pro 1's in a mild 1.8 liter engine. I tested the Pro 2's in my 11.5:1 1.8 liter ITR engine a year or two ago and made less than my Toda C's. Now that I am running a 2 liter engine with 11.5-12:1 compression, the Pro 2's are better. You can run the Pro 2's and make o.k. power, but don't expect the best results.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraType-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Figures..

Crane/skunk2/crower i've had problems with their people skills serious..

their products are absoulately great, i love their products but their people skills = obx.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i talked to a guy by the name of ralph. he was pretty good. he told me that even though they're this HUGE company, they're extremely short staffed and some times people just slip through the cracks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would run Pro 1's in a mild 1.8 liter engine. I tested the Pro 2's in my 11.5:1 1.8 liter ITR engine a year or two ago and made less than my Toda C's. Now that I am running a 2 liter engine with 11.5-12:1 compression, the Pro 2's are better. You can run the Pro 2's and make o.k. power, but don't expect the best results.</TD></TR></TABLE>

which valves would you recommend?.....staying with the s2 line

 

Skunk 2 flat faced valves will bump your compression by about 0.2, so it couldn't hurt.

 

Pro 2 is the best choice of cam shafts you made. Im sure that in order to run those cams you have to do a major build in you B18C-R? Those cams are mean and with some good tuning you'll be really happy Skunk2 once told me that those are "BAD *** CAMS" and that they don't want to tell you what you can or can't run in your motor because they don't want to be responsible for damages. It really all depends on your tuner and mechanic GOOD LUCK

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Skunk 2 flat faced valves will bump your compression by about 0.2, so it couldn't hurt.</TD></TR></TABLE>

from what they told me..........they dont sell true flat faced valves. just the high and standard comp. they both have a little dome to em.

id post pics but my pc here at work is messed up. its on the website though

 

I run the ferrea high compression SS flat face valves, with my s2s2's..they work great..i just recently slapped my head on, i'm hoping to break around 11.8-12.0 cr.

 

does anyone know the lift and duration of itr cams?

 

They were exactly right in telling you that you need more compression,in a 1.8 it should be like 12.8-13:1 with pro 2's, They want you to have the most gain and be happy with there product, I run in to this all the time with customers they always want to over cam and never understand that a smaller cam like b19coupe said would kick their butts everywhere up to peak. You have to match the intake with the cams and header design each of those parts should be focused on the same over all goal of the engine. A big intake manifold most of the time will help the big cams shine with the big header, and a medium engine and medium sized intake manifold with medium sized cams (pro1), with a medium header( b18 smsp)
will always work better together.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bearsEK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They were exactly right in telling you that you need more compression,in a 1.8 it should be like 12.8-13:1 with pro 2's, They want you to have the most gain and be happy with there product, I run in to this all the time with customers they always want to over cam and never understand that a smaller cam like b19coupe said would kick their butts everywhere up to peak. You have to match the intake with the cams and header design each of those parts should be focused on the same over all goal of the engine. A big intake manifold most of the time will help the big cams shine with the big header, and a medium engine and medium sized intake manifold with medium sized cams (pro1), with a medium header( b18 smsp)
will always work better together. </TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks. pretty much touched base on what i needed.

 

i agree pro 1s are the choice for the 1.8L not that you couldnt run the pro 2s. pro 1s are just better suited for the 1.8L. i think even if you had more compression the best street/strip cam out there is the pro 1s.
on a side note since i happen to be checking pro 2s at this very moment for clicking clearance. these cams are not for amatures. not that im a pro. i have them currently mocked up in a spare head just to get an idea of what kind of clicking clearances i have and i have to say you cannot just throw them in a head and go. i have skunk 2 pro cam gears and upon their recommendations i set the cam gears at +1.5, +2. these didnt even give me .005 of clearance between valves once the valves were squeezed together. so far i have to get at least 3 full degrees difference from one cam gear to the other just to get minimal .020 clearance. has anyone else ran into this same problem?? ive tried to contact everyone but its a weekend and im just amazed at how big these cams are. anyone?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Skunk 2 flat faced valves will bump your compression by about 0.2, so it couldn't hurt.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i've always wondered this...

Anyone know the weight difference between the flat faced and regular valves?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1 2 NV &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i agree pro 1s are the choice for the 1.8L not that you couldnt run the pro 2s. pro 1s are just better suited for the 1.8L. i think even if you had more compression the best street/strip cam out there is the pro 1s.
on a side note since i happen to be checking pro 2s at this very moment for clicking clearance. these cams are not for amatures. not that im a pro. i have them currently mocked up in a spare head just to get an idea of what kind of clicking clearances i have and i have to say you cannot just throw them in a head and go. i have skunk 2 pro cam gears and upon their recommendations i set the cam gears at +1.5, +2. these didnt even give me .005 of clearance between valves once the valves were squeezed together. so far i have to get at least 3 full degrees difference from one cam gear to the other just to get minimal .020 clearance. has anyone else ran into this same problem?? ive tried to contact everyone but its a weekend and im just amazed at how big these cams are. anyone?</TD></TR></TABLE>

starting to get the notion that pro 1 s are what i should use seeing that this will be my only means of transport, i might want to stay away from 2's. seems that you have to be extremely careful with those.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1 2 NV &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> im just amazed at how big these cams are.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i know its not good to overcam (using these on my setup) but d*mn, i want big cams too

 

i agree with these people, i have used all 3 sets of cams on my motors and found that overcamming may give you 2-3 more up top, but all throughout the band, you lose a little. Recently did 2 motors using the pro 1s, customers love them. motor was setup to use the cams, and skunk's customer service was great.

I will add this, the reason she informed you to go to the net, is because skunk 2 isnt filled with a plethora of employees available. they have their site there to give advice to customers so thats why she urged you to go to the net.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RPRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i agree with these people, i have used all 3 sets of cams on my motors and found that overcamming may give you 2-3 more up top, but all throughout the band, you lose a little. Recently did 2 motors using the pro 1s, customers love them. motor was setup to use the cams, and skunk's customer service was great.

I will add this, the reason she informed you to go to the net, is because skunk 2 isnt filled with a plethora of employees available. they have their site there to give advice to customers so thats why she urged you to go to the net. </TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for the input i definitely agree with the cust serv being great. i got tons of info last night when i talked to ralp. i was on the phone for literally 1hr and 30min. he was extremely nice and helpful the whole time. you dont get that with many service lines.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmitrna &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i talked to a guy by the name of ralph. he was pretty good. he told me that even though they're this HUGE company, they're extremely short staffed and some times people just slip through the cracks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

i use to have these cams in my car stock bottom end stock valves and all i did was use a thinner head gasket. i lost a lot of low end and torque but had good top end after talking with skunk 2 they told me that i would need a minimum of 12:1:1 compression for the pro series stage 2 and for the pro series stage 1 i would need 11:4:1 compression

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoBo Racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i use to have these cams in my car stock bottom end stock valves and all i did was use a thinner head gasket. i lost a lot of low end and torque but had good top end after talking with skunk 2 they told me that i would need a minimum of 12:1:1 compression for the pro series stage 2 and for the pro series stage 1 i would need 11:4:1 compression</TD></TR></TABLE>

awesome, cuz ralph at s2 gave me a link to a compression calculator and with a thin layered headgasket i should be right at 11.4

 

Dustin, what are you using to time the cams? By that I mean, turn them together properly aligned? Timing belt?

 

I use an old timing belt and a needle nose vice grips.

 

their customer service is pretty good.
you can send messeages to them on their website and they answer pretty quick.
for me anyways.

 

yes T belt and needlenose baby.

got the final results. these are by far the biggest cams ive messed with. if you do not run the exhaust 3 degrees advanced more than the intake you could have problems. at +1.5IN, +2EX like skunk recommends in there 07' catalog i only get .005 clearance V2V (squeezing). at 0IN, +2 EX i get .015, at 0IN, +3 i got .020 which is bare minimum to me. this is on stock sized valves FYI.
beware kids, big aggressive cams cannot just be thrown in.








Modified by 1 2 NV at 11:30 AM 1/25/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1 2 NV &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes T belt and needlenose baby.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Me three. I want to make a tool for checking valve to valve by cutting a t-belt and having it made to the proper size.

 

I use to just zip tie the cam gear to the belts and did it that way