Could a bad build cause the motor to overheat?
I just had my b16 sleeved/built at golden eagle. They built the bottom end and bolted on the head with a cometic HG. After 10 minutes of running the motor it overheats and there is coolant coming out of the head gasket area!!
thermastat, fan, radiator, and coolant levels were fine. Could it be a bad build?
thermastat, fan, radiator, and coolant levels were fine. Could it be a bad build?
no, sleeves did not cause your motor to overheat and goldeneagle won't be able to help you with what did other than there personel experience.
thermostat not opening
rag stuck in hose
crap radiator
radiator fan not coming on
waterpump not working properly
there are many thing, but the sleeves are not it.
thermostat not opening
rag stuck in hose
crap radiator
radiator fan not coming on
waterpump not working properly
there are many thing, but the sleeves are not it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91crxturbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but would that cause the motor to overheat?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Um....
A wrong or flipped around HG could DEFINITELY cause that! Especially if it was blocking off a water passage. That could also explain why you are leaking, the HG is sealing off it's path - but it's got to go somewhere! If it is flipped then some oil passages are probably blocked off too!
I'm not saying that's 100% what it is, but seems logical since it was just put back together.
Um....
A wrong or flipped around HG could DEFINITELY cause that! Especially if it was blocking off a water passage. That could also explain why you are leaking, the HG is sealing off it's path - but it's got to go somewhere! If it is flipped then some oil passages are probably blocked off too!
I'm not saying that's 100% what it is, but seems logical since it was just put back together.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by trickeng »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no, sleeves did not cause your motor to overheat and goldeneagle won't be able to help you with what did other than there personel experience. </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91crxturbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> They built the bottom end and bolted on the head with a cometic HG.......Could it be a bad build?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why wouldn't they?
Something isn't right with it, or we aren't getting the full story. New builds aren't supposed to overheat and spew coolant.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91crxturbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> They built the bottom end and bolted on the head with a cometic HG.......Could it be a bad build?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why wouldn't they?
Something isn't right with it, or we aren't getting the full story. New builds aren't supposed to overheat and spew coolant.
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Well, they didn't mill the head, maybe it was warped? but i would think if they were going to fully build my bottom end they would check to see if the head was straight when they bolted it on......the motor didn't overheat before it was built, so it shouldn't be warped. But the fact that the head gasket blew SO EASILY (barely overheated for less than 30 seconds) leads me to believe that the head was warped....
i'm sorry. thought they just built the bottom end. it is strange that overheating once on a freshly built motor would cause the headgasket to leak. how bad did it overheat? i've had many motors peg the dash guage without hurting anything.
i started to see a little smoke come from the radiator while the car was idleing, i looked at the guage inside saw it about 3/4 the was up and turned off the motor......it wasn't that bad and it lasted for less than a minute....that's why i believe that the head was warped....i turned the car on afterward and white smoke came out of the exhaust but it ran fine, it an extremely limited blow of the head gasket.....
the motor came in originally with a spun rod bearing crank was no good he supplied new rods,pistons,and used crank and the head we sleeved the bottom end,built it with customer supplied rods,pistons, and head when we put the block together we noticed the pistons were sticking out of the hole .oo8 so we called him and let him know that he needed to ether send these pistons back or order new ones he then asked if a thicker head gasket would work, i told him that it could work he would need a .060 thick gasket, we did no work to the head he said it came of a running motor didn't ask for the head to be milled or gone threw, so all we did was bolt it on and torque it to spec thats what we charged him to do if he wanted the head gone threw there would be a charg for that too, when he called we offered him to bring the motor in so we could look at it and see what the problem is and if it was anything we did we would cover the repair but if its the head all we could do is send it out to be fixed and charge him for the repairs we tried working with him to solve the problem but he wants to bring in the whole car and we do not have a place to work on it we are a machine shop so we suggested for him to pull the motor and bring it in so we could check it or pull the head off him self and have it checked, we want to help him but there is only so much we can do if we worked on cars here we would offer for him to bring it in no problem but we do not so not much we can do
Modified by Golden Eagle at 1:53 PM 1/18/2007
Modified by Golden Eagle at 1:53 PM 1/18/2007
umm....the part about the thicker head gasket was what you told me i NEEDED to do. You called me and said that i needed to order an overmilled head gasket. You never suggested i get different pistons(I'm guessing becuase your builder didn't want to have to remove and put them back in) Your exact words were "you need to order a thicker head gasket from cometic (.052mm oversized) becuase your pistons are slighting sticking out of the block, this happens sometimes with b16's/17" The fact of the matter is i asked to have the motor put together so it would be ready to drop in the car; I even had you guys time the cams and put on a new waterpump. When dropping off the motor my exact words to you personally were "i want this motor put together correctly and ready to drop in." What kind of "reputable" motor building machine shop wouldn't check to see if the head off of a blown motor needed to be milled?
What is the point of decking a block if your not going to mill a head? I mean, how warped does either the head or block have to be in order for it to spew out coolant.
All in all the fact of the matter is that the engine was defective.....
Modified by 91crxturbo at 5:35 PM 1/18/2007
What is the point of decking a block if your not going to mill a head? I mean, how warped does either the head or block have to be in order for it to spew out coolant.
All in all the fact of the matter is that the engine was defective.....
Modified by 91crxturbo at 5:35 PM 1/18/2007
like i said before you did not ask us to check the head all you asked us to do was bolt it on and that is what you were charged for you never once said anything about us checking the head for you and like i said if you want pull the block out of the car and bring it in we will pull the head off check to see what the problem is no charge we will only charge you for any work that needs to be done to the head we do not work on cars at our shop do not have the room wish we did and if you read the warranty we do not cover the labor for pulling the engine out no shop does
Did you check to make sure there was no air in the cooling system? How did you bleed it? Was the fan cycling on properly? Was the thermostat working? Were both radiator hoses equally hot when it overheated?
It should have been golden eagles fault 100%, except that you brought them a used head and told them to slap it on... you had them put on a head that you didnt even know it i... if you werent sure you should have taken it to a machine shop or paid GE to check and resurface it...
a head could look perfect but still be warped..
a head could look perfect but still be warped..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blueprint »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It should have been golden eagles fault 100%, except that you brought them a used head and told them to slap it on... you had them put on a head that you didnt even know it i... if you werent sure you should have taken it to a machine shop or paid GE to check and resurface it...
a head could look perfect but still be warped.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I gave them the complete motor with a spun bearing and asked them to put it together READY TO BE DROPPED IN. I never personally saw the head off of the block.
a head could look perfect but still be warped.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I gave them the complete motor with a spun bearing and asked them to put it together READY TO BE DROPPED IN. I never personally saw the head off of the block.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you check to make sure there was no air in the cooling system? How did you bleed it? Was the fan cycling on properly? Was the thermostat working? Were both radiator hoses equally hot when it overheated?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91crxturbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I gave them the complete motor with a spun bearing and asked them to put it together READY TO BE DROPPED IN. I never personally saw the head off of the block.</TD></TR></TABLE>
and never asked for us to have the head checked and just because it had a spun bearing does not mean that it hurt the head
and never asked for us to have the head checked and just because it had a spun bearing does not mean that it hurt the head
YOU are the engine buildiers......i asked for the motor to be ready to drop in. Regardless of whether or not a spun rod bearing would cause a damaged head it was your job to make sure everything was to spec. I asked for the motor to be ready to drop in, and it wasn't. CASE CLOSED.
Modified by 91crxturbo at 12:37 PM 1/19/2007
Modified by 91crxturbo at 12:37 PM 1/19/2007
I doubt there's anything wrong with the engine. I've seen it tons of times that a new setup gets an air pocket in it and the water doesn't circulate, and causes it to overheat. But i guess if you're just going to keep throwing the blame on someone else and not try to figure out the real problem, than you can't be helped..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91crxturbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">YOU are the engine buildiers......i asked for the motor to be ready to drop in. Regardless of whether or not a spun rod bearing would cause a damaged head it was your job to make sure everything was to spec. I asked for the motor to be ready to drop in, and it wasn't. CASE CLOSED.
Modified by 91crxturbo at 12:37 PM 1/19/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>
that is not what you asked you asked us, first you asked us to build the bottom end,then you asked if we can put the head on for you. i said we don't like to do that because it cost to much to ship it then you said you were local so i said it would not be a problem no where in there did you say can you go threw the head and se if there is a problem. tonny1 is asking you questions you don't even answer probably because you didn't even check any of the stuff he said could be the problem. so it might no even be a bad head and just a lake of doing what needs to be done and further more you told me you paid to have it installed yet i see all these post from you like <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91crxturbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just had a freshly rebuilt b16(turbo-charged) dropped into my crx. when at idle the rpms jump from 1000-2000. WHen i try to hold the rpm at 3000 or so the rpms drop by themselves.....anyone have any ideas of what this could be? I've pressure tested the intake system and there are no vacume leaks</TD></TR></TABLE>
and <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91crxturbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey guys, i have a freshly built turbocharged b16. Before i begin the break-in process i want to make sure what air/fuel ratio or lambda range is safe...thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE> and there was one more but you deleted it already all things that if someone installed it for you that knew what they were doing they should have figured out on there own so it is not our fault that you had someone install the engine that didn't know what they were doing now thats CASE CLOSED.
Modified by 91crxturbo at 12:37 PM 1/19/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>
that is not what you asked you asked us, first you asked us to build the bottom end,then you asked if we can put the head on for you. i said we don't like to do that because it cost to much to ship it then you said you were local so i said it would not be a problem no where in there did you say can you go threw the head and se if there is a problem. tonny1 is asking you questions you don't even answer probably because you didn't even check any of the stuff he said could be the problem. so it might no even be a bad head and just a lake of doing what needs to be done and further more you told me you paid to have it installed yet i see all these post from you like <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91crxturbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just had a freshly rebuilt b16(turbo-charged) dropped into my crx. when at idle the rpms jump from 1000-2000. WHen i try to hold the rpm at 3000 or so the rpms drop by themselves.....anyone have any ideas of what this could be? I've pressure tested the intake system and there are no vacume leaks</TD></TR></TABLE>
and <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91crxturbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey guys, i have a freshly built turbocharged b16. Before i begin the break-in process i want to make sure what air/fuel ratio or lambda range is safe...thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE> and there was one more but you deleted it already all things that if someone installed it for you that knew what they were doing they should have figured out on there own so it is not our fault that you had someone install the engine that didn't know what they were doing now thats CASE CLOSED.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91crxturbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the system was completely bleeded...i know for a fact there was something wrong with the build....new motors don't just spew out coolant from the head gasket......</TD></TR></TABLE>
if there installed wrong or tuned wrong they might the only way to solve the problem is bring me the motor we will pull the head off and we will send it out to be checked and fixed if there is a problem. its dumb to keep arguing about it and not just do what needs to be done and have it fixed we are trying to help you but all you want to do is complain about having to pay to have it pulled and put back in i would not let who ever installed it the first time do anything to it again if you want i have a local shop that has ben doing this for years and would charge 1/2 the price you told me you paid for the install and it would be done right let me know if you want i can set it up for you
if there installed wrong or tuned wrong they might the only way to solve the problem is bring me the motor we will pull the head off and we will send it out to be checked and fixed if there is a problem. its dumb to keep arguing about it and not just do what needs to be done and have it fixed we are trying to help you but all you want to do is complain about having to pay to have it pulled and put back in i would not let who ever installed it the first time do anything to it again if you want i have a local shop that has ben doing this for years and would charge 1/2 the price you told me you paid for the install and it would be done right let me know if you want i can set it up for you
Dude, stop arguing with GE. They know considerably more than you do. Bottom line, machine shops do 0% of work they are not asked to do. "Get it ready to drop in" as you say, doesn't give your expressed consent for all costs invovled. You have to say, "I want you to check my head for cracks and do a resurface/mill to .xxxx". It's that simple. Tell the shop what you want done and they'll do it for you. If you're vague, they will not assume work for you because that puts them in a bad position. More often than not, people get pissed off at being charged for things they didn't ask to have done and the shops have to eat the cost. It's your fault that you weren't more clear, not theirs.
Stop being a ***** and just pull your engine. I'd suggest going with the shop that GE recommends.
Stop being a ***** and just pull your engine. I'd suggest going with the shop that GE recommends.


