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Bike lowering

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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 02:53 PM
  #1  
wood 1's Avatar
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Default Bike lowering

How do you install lowering links on a motorcycle? My son's bike has the links installed, but I need to go lower. How do you move the link to change the heigth? Can you remove the bolt on the top of the shock or what should I do? It seems that if you remove the bolt at the bottom to relocate the lowering link that there is a lot of tension and aligning the bolt would be very difficult. Please help as my son and I are new bike owners, and also 91 Civic and CRX Si owners.
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 03:01 PM
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Default

How short ARE you? A friend of mine is 5'3" or 5'4", and he has no issues with putting one foot down. Putting both feet down is not essential to motorcycle riding.
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 03:12 PM
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Default Re: (marmaladeboy)

what kind of bike is it? and the links may not be adjustable.... i made mine just with holes for stock and 2 other ones to go low and lower,just jack my bike up and have someone hold the back wheel take the bolt out and move it to the next one to lower it more
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 04:01 PM
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Default Re: (Throwdown)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Throwdown &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what kind of bike is it? and the links may not be adjustable.... i made mine just with holes for stock and 2 other ones to go low and lower,just jack my bike up and have someone hold the back wheel take the bolt out and move it to the next one to lower it more</TD></TR></TABLE>

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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 04:56 PM
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Default Re: (MadnessRacing)

I'm trying to get more hieght out of my rides not less
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 04:57 PM
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Default Re: (MSchu)

i'm about to strap mine down in the front......low
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 05:08 PM
  #7  
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Default Re: (Throwdown)

that's a good idea
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 05:27 PM
  #8  
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Default Re: (Throwdown)

Bike is a 2007 Kawasaki ZZR 600 and it has a lowering link installed but it is'nt low enough for my son. I started to remove the bolts to attept to lower it more but I didn't know what to do so I stopped. How do I change this adjustment? It seems when you removed a bolt that everyting is in a bind and it will be hard to reinstall the bolts. In short how do I adjust the lowering link by myself?
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 06:31 PM
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Default Re: (wood 1)

some lowering links have more than one adjustment some are just one stander drop, if it has more than one whole then its adjustable, so if you want to go lower go back one whole...
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Old Jan 7, 2007 | 08:05 AM
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Default Re: (MSchu)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MSchu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that's a good idea
</TD></TR></TABLE>i know boy
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Old Jan 7, 2007 | 08:10 AM
  #11  
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Default Re: (MSchu)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MSchu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm trying to get more hieght out of my rides not less</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL

+1
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Old Jan 7, 2007 | 10:09 AM
  #12  
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Default Re: (wood 1)

not to be rude but ur son must be a lil guy if its not low enough with lowering links installed. u can also get ur stock seat shaved down a lil or get a corbin seat by the way.
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Old Jan 7, 2007 | 10:14 AM
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Default Re: (Teddy Ruxpin)

bring the front down as well
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Old Jan 7, 2007 | 10:39 AM
  #14  
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Default Re: (Throwdown)

One cheek, on foot FTW

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Old Jan 7, 2007 | 11:02 AM
  #15  
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Default Re: (SlowB16si)

one red X
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Old Jan 7, 2007 | 11:38 AM
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Default Re: Bike lowering (wood 1)

There's nothing wrong if you are a new rider and you feel more comfortable w/ the bike a little lower. Once you get comfortable enough, lift the bike back to stock height and you're good to go. If you are only lowering the bike about an inch or so, you won't be able to really tell the difference in handling. I'm about 5'3" and this is the way I started riding. Now my bikes are at stock height and I have no issues. At first, I lowered my bike 1" and the change in handling wasn't noticeable. The only place where it sucked was at the track. As much as I would get my body off the bike, something always scraped. Like I said, if you're just learning and you feel more comfortable and you want to start off this way, go for it.

Lift the bike up from the rear in order to get the rear tire off the ground. I took my plastics off and jacked up the bike from the header. The stock headers are pretty strong and nothing will happen to it. I did put a piece of wood on the jack so it wouldn't scrape it though. If you need help, have someone hold the bike while you work so it doesn't tip over. Most bikes have two bolts w/ two nuts holding the link on. First, take the nuts off. Next push the rear wheel up and this will take the weight of the bolts so you could pull them off. If you are working by yourself, grab a stock jack out of your car and put it underneath the rear wheel. Adjust the jack until you see that it takes the weight off the bolts. Both bolts should come off with no problem and the link should fall out. Install the new link in reverse order. Line the holes up, put the bolts through, tighten the nuts. The front of the bike will also need to be lowered a little as well.

Some lowering links are fully adjustable and some only bring two or three holes for adjustments. Which do you have?
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Old Jan 7, 2007 | 11:47 AM
  #17  
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Default Re: Bike lowering (wood 1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wood 1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It seems that if you remove the bolt at the bottom to relocate the lowering link that there is a lot of tension and aligning the bolt would be very difficult. Please help as my son and I are new bike owners, and also 91 Civic and CRX Si owners.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you just need to move the link to the next lowering hole, do not remove the top bolt from the link. All you have to do is remove the bottom one. In order to get the bottom bolt off and back in, someone is gonna have to help you push up on that rear wheel while you line up the holes and slide the bolt through. I just worked by myself and used a car jack to help me out. Just be careful how much you lower the bike though. Some of the those links have two holes. Going from one hole to the other can make a difference from a 1" to a 3" drop. Good luck
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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 02:28 AM
  #18  
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From: Panama City, FL, USA
Default Re: Bike lowering (TurboCX)

The lowering link has 3 holes in it and it is currently in the top hole. Does moving it down lower the bike? Thanks for your help TurboCX!
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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 06:30 AM
  #19  
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Default Re: Bike lowering (wood 1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wood 1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The lowering link has 3 holes in it and it is currently in the top hole. Does moving it down lower the bike? Thanks for your help TurboCX!</TD></TR></TABLE>

if im not misstaking thats the lowest you can go if you move it shoould raise it but try it is not going to hurt and see what happens.
thats what the holes are for to adjust the hight...
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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 12:25 PM
  #20  
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Default Re: Bike lowering (wood 1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wood 1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The lowering link has 3 holes in it and it is currently in the top hole. Does moving it down lower the bike? Thanks for your help TurboCX!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, moving it down will lower the bike. Right now it's sitting at the highest position.
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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 02:34 PM
  #21  
wood 1's Avatar
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Default Re: Bike lowering (TurboCX)

Thanks again for your response Turbo CX, should the front also be lowered?
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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 09:53 PM
  #22  
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Default Re: Bike lowering (wood 1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wood 1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks again for your response Turbo CX, should the front also be lowered?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes it should be lowered too. You don't need to purchase anything to do this though. You loosen the bolts on the front triple clamps and carefully move the fork tubes up. Make sure you measure carefully to make sure both fork tubes are at the same exact height. How much you move them up will really depend how much you lowered the rear of the bike. The clipons (handlebars) will also need to be loosened and you will have to slide them down the forktubes, then retighten them. Also, make sure you don't lower that front end too much as the front fender could possibly hit the the upper fender and lock up the front tire. You would really have to slam the bike for this to happen but still just warning you. If you do lower that bike enough, the kickstand might also need to be cut a little and re-welded. When you put the kickstand down on a lowered bike, the bike doesn't lean over as much on its side anymore. On a windy day or something, the bike could tip over easily. Lower the bike and put it on the kickstand and see what you think. I never cut my kickstand since I barely lowered my bike and it still had enough lean to where the wind couldn't tip it over. All this stuff might sound a little complicated but it is actually really easy. Good luck man
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