I am not getting spark. What items do i check???

I dont want to just slap a dist. in it but i think i might. I tested everything like the helms says. It tells you on the ignitor to test those 4 wires, well, the yellow/green wire that goes from teh ecm to the icm is not showing power... But in the helms it just says to test it.. ahaha It doesnt say what to do if your not getting power there.... I will post what im talking about right quick.



See how it kinda gets vague there... step #5 is where things go bad. I dont have power in that spot at all. I tested the wire where the dist plugs in at, and nothing... I think you have to have 12v or something there right???

Also, side note. I tested my coil, and on A+ and B, the ohms is 1.1 That is out of the range of .6-.8. That mean the coil is bad also???

 

i went throuth the same problem when i did my first motor swap
i tested my distributor, coil, module and i make sure my crank sensor was conected.
at the end, the problem was a loose ground wire in the thermostat housing and a loose wire in the distributor connector harness.
motor fired up quick after this.

 

check grounds, fuses, coil, all the connections helms tells you to test. But in most cases if there is no spark and coil passes the test and there is no burn marks on it just change the ignitor and it will prolly fire right up.

 

ya, but it is just weird that i have spark one sec and not the next.. Her eis my thought. I work for an automotive store, so im going to have them send me a whole dist. and then just try it out. ahaha.. new cap/rotor/and full dist. DOnt start then its probably the main relay.. Order a relay, put that in.. If it dont start. I have NO fukin clue as to where to go from there.

And for you guys hangin out, here is some pics of my hone job i did and my block.
This is my hone job. SHows the difference...

 

looks little rought did you use some oil with that, or did you go in there dry. Crosshatch looks ait I guess I can't really tell. should be 45 degree.

Maybe it's the camera but it looks a little rought.

btw it's easier to pull the head off with intake matifold

 

Its not rough, its perfect, thats why im showing you. The machine shop stated to use mineral spirits to hone with. I used 30 weight.

Your nutz if you think taken the mani wiht the head is easier..... You do it your way...

Still getting no spark. Im putting a complete new dist, and main relay in tonight... Should get spark then.. If nothing, its the ecu... All grounds are cleaned and checked.. Dont know where to look after that.

 

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Your nutz if you think taken the mani wiht the head is easier..... You do it your way...
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ait dude I'm just trying to help. It's not like I never done this before.

BTW what's your set up?

 

yo man keep me posted... Same shiet going on with me...

Checked grounds
Changed dizzy
changed ecu
unplugged the brain to my car alarm cuz i thought it was overriding it or some shiet...

still no good

 

Just getting everything unhooked seemed like a big waste of time.. took me a few mins it seemed to get that head off.

Setup
1994 civic DX
JDM B18c
ITR pistons
everything else stock....
Went to put the new dist i bought on and its the wrong friggin ones, the legs dont match up. ahaha..

 

I will keep you up to date on whats up.

If i was you i would change the main relay. Thats pretty much all thats left is that...

I bought a new dist. and new main relay.. I dont think my relay is the problem, i think its in the dist somewhere....

i will have more info tonight.

 

When it says "check the Yel/Grn wire between the ECM and ICM" it means make sure it's not open or shorted to ground....as in, make sure it's got continuity so the signal can actually make from the ECM to the ICM. Is that the wire you thinking needed to measure +12v?

You measured 1.1 ohms on the primary and it calls for .6-.8 ohms. What does your meter read if you just touch the leads together? Either way, you need a more sensitive meter to get an accurate read of such a low ohm value. On top of that, really the only way to test a coil is to use a scope and look at the primary/secondary signals.

 

ahhhhhhhhh, your the ****** man......

Really quick, how do i test to see if it has continuity or if its grounced???

Its probably the ignitor, puting a new distributor in today...

 

The wire starts and ends at connectors. Disconnect those two connectors so the wire is totally isolated. Use your meter on the ohm setting and measure between one end of the wire and the other for continuity. To check for a short to ground, keep the wire as it was before and just put one lead on the wire and the other lead to a ground somewhere.

 

what will the ohm reading be if its bad or good?

I dont think any of that is the prob.. Im hoping this dist. cures all. who knows.

 

The continuity reading should be low...like 1-5 ohms. But the reading for a short-to-ground should be infinite...because it shouldn't exist.

When did the problem start happening anyway? Were you ever getting spark consistenly? Beware of aftermarket distributors though - they come bad out of the box a lot of times.

 

I hydro locked the motor.. didnt go through a very big puddle, just my CAI is super low.....

I had spark when i was priming the motor, i had all the spark plugs and wires off, i was holding a wire, with spark plug in it, my kid turned the car over and it shocked the **** outta me.... Didnt have spark after that....
Side note... I was testing the out put of the dist. by putting one end of the test meter INSIDE the dist cap spark plug hole, and had my kid crank. NOTHING coming out.. Welll, i went to my accord, pulled the 4 plugs out of the motor, took one plug wire off the cap, stuck the meter in ther eand had him crank it, it zapped the **** outta me, and now THAT isnt gettng spark either. ahaha.. Think i ruined the ignitor on that one.

 

DO NOT crank the engine over without a "load" on the distributor. The coil is going to build up a charge and when the ECU tells it to release it, it's going to find the shortest path to ground. Usually that's through a .030" gap on the spark plug, but when there's nothing there....where's it gonna go? Internal to itself is where and thus the result you've obtained.

A new distributor should set you straight. I doubt the whole thing is bad though, I'm just referring to what you said your plan was.

 

That shortest place to go was MY ***. ahah

Its not very often you get good advice and someone to see it though the end.. I really appreciate it.

If the dist works, im just going to put a ignitor in it and return it. Im sure my accord needs an ignitor.
Once again. Thanks man.

 

chris, i put a new dist. on and it fired right up. perfect... pulls good. I dont know if it was my coil or if it was my dist, or the ignitor. Any way i can test those parts when they are OUT of the car??

Side note, i drove around the block 3 times or so and pulled it back inside. LIttle milky on the oil cap when i opened it. I drained the oil and will refill tomorrow. I did suck up alot of water, im wondering if that was from the water in the bottom end, or something/..

Any suggestions?

 

Yeah, not good - milky residue is the result of oil and water mixing. I have no experience with 'repairing' this, so I don't know if doing a couple oil flushes will fix it or not.

And testing the parts out of the car - you need a scope and current probe to look at the primary and secondary ramps.

 

ya, i know about that milky stuff.. I am thinking that its just residue. I mean it took about a half gallon or so. THat water just drained into the block...i drained the oil pan, but im sure there was some water/mucky stuff in the oil pump still.. Im just guessing, cause the oil in the pan was clear and the there was just some milky on the inside of the oil cap...

I will keep you updated.

 

yea I experienced getting some coolant into my oilpan. It took about 3 drain and fills do get it completly out. I suggest gettiing some cheap oil and running it thru couple times.

I had problem building oil pressure with that **** on the first start up. So I would watch out.