HondaHeddie

I went out and cranked my car to leave for the Emiss testers.

I took a whiff of my warmed up exhaust(it has been driven for 1.5hrs on the hwy)
it stung my nose and smelled like half burnt gas


now I really gotta work on this

I hope the cause does not fall to the "worn engine" option in that chart
I just got this engine in 04
and it was breezing through the tests

I had a poor air filter on for a bit and I hope I did not mess up my rings/cylinders

I will look for other causes of richness (I wish I was as rich as my exhaust...lol)


BTW:
I do not smoke at all
no odd exhaust appearance even on cold mornings

HondaHeddie

My search leads me to look at a new O2
it has 254k on it (engine only has 70k or so) ....miles
I have header and shorty on engine so airflow should not be a problem...maybe
air filter is only 3mos/8-9kmi old
but that included the southwest and Vegas(kinda dusty)
it is one o them oil impregnated air filters that claim to keep airflow constant during age
but of course that is the mfg talking
I don't have 60bucks to spend on a filter AND an O2 so I think I will try replacing the oldest first

unless u guys object....

wiZCo

Try replacing your O2 sensor first. What kind of shape are your ignition components (fuel inj's, spark plugs/wires dist. cap and rotor) in? Also make sure your coolant is full and all the air is bled out. I had a rich-running problem for a while, turned out to be a bad thermostat so the engine always was colder than it should've been and the ECU was dumping more fuel in and upping the idle to compensate. Just some suggestions.

HondaHeddie

Just got done getting/installing O2
now resetting timing to before I was adjusting with a partially carbonized O2.

thermostat is about 16mos old or alittle more
I would have said it was fine till today when I was replacing the O2 and it seemed to take a long time for the fan to come on(It has always come on in a reasonable time before)


so I have searched bleeding the cooling sys and it seems to me you open the rad cap, then open the bleed screw on the top hose connector and make sure only coolant comes out of it.
Is that it ?
or do I need to pay special attn to bleeding the eacv and other items in that area?


Plugs are brand new and properly gapped.
cap is new, rotor is not replaceable due to me not doing a repair myself(the "mechanic" screwed the shaft and the rotor wont come off, in fact, I had to epoxy the rotor on there cuz it kept dancing(it would not tighten all the way and would not come off the shaft either)

so I know I need a new dizzy(I got phenomenal test results with it the past year so I know placement is ok, but I know the electrodes are pitted by now)
I am waiting to get a new dizzy when I go OBD-1 and MPFI.
I cant afford new wires now, I would replace them if so, but only out of habit. I like to stik to a schedule and by regular oil and plugs, rather than spend gobbs of cash on "extended super life double platinum tough guard quad electrodes"....lol
so I will replace them as soon as I have the 35-50 bucks, that will be before the grace period on my temp permit expires.


thanks for the advice man it's good stuff

HondaHeddie

ok
after much searching
and working
I have new plugs
thick oil
took a toothbrush to the eacv an the throttle body(paying attention to the injector locations)
set timing 18-19
1/3-1/2 gal xylene in tank with 91-93gas(crx tank 11gal)
replaced vac hose on accel flapper(?)---dashpot that opens lower baffle for aux inj
set idle at 1k (and I will hold pedal down while in line)
new O2
New PCV and cleaned hose for it

the hose I replaced did not get rid of tinny hiss I hear behind the TB, I have moved all the hoses, pressed on everything, put my hands everywhere trying to find the hiss
no luck


ALSO
would you guys think getting some header wrap to keep the cat hot would be a good idea?

the exhaust smells much better
more like the warm moist air I remember
I am taking her in to retest tomorrow if you guys dont have a reason not to