I've been around here for awhile and have never seen this topic covered. Maybe because people are paranoid, unsure, or just uncertain how to do it. Since I had a spare alarm laying around, and a spare hatchback, I figured I'd throw it in and take some pics. Some folks may have different ways of doing these, but, feel free to use this as a guide line. Please don't get all negative on this thread. If you have anything negative to say, please keep it to yourself, as this thread is to help and inform others. Also, please do not ask me a bunch of alarm questions, I'm not an expert by any means and I do not want to mislead anyone.

To start:



It's always nice to clean the area you're working in. So, a quick vacuum is in order.




The alarm is a Python 460HP. Basic alarm/keyless entry and starter kill. The blue box next to it is the lock actuator, which will be installed later.



Take the underdash down to find the wires. Noting the factory loom and direction.







Unplug the main harnesses and let them hang.



Cut and strip the starter wire.



Take the cluster cover off, since thats where the alarm brain is going in this car.



Finding the parking light wire.



Door trigger wire.

It's best to find all your wires first. This way you can plot and plan your route for the alarm wires, and there will be no surprises along the way.



Alarm brain out the box.



Plug up all the harnesses. This is not as intimidating as it looks.



Cut all the wires off the alarm that won't be used. This cuts down on ALOT of extra clutter. On this alarm, there will only be 9 wires used.

+12 volts
ignition
starter kill
door sense
hatch sense
siren
ground
lock
unlock



Start bundling similar wires.



Loom wires to keep a factory-ish look.



I cut this small brace to run wires through.



Put the alarm behind the cluster.



Brain behind cluster.



Wires pulled down and ready to go.



Door trigger and antenna coming out from the door jamb.



Alarm ground. This must be nice and snug. If this comes loose, there will be problems.



Everything attatched and tied back up (I think)...



Hole drilled for siren.



Alarm brain tucked for good.



Putting the dash back together.



LED and programming switch mounted.



Antenna mounted inside windsheild.



Siren mounted.

It's always important to check everything before you reassemble. Make sure the shock sensor works good and wires are tied properly. By mounting the brain behind the cluster, it makes it invisible to see from under the dash, and is protected by steel. If you were to look under this dash, NOTHING looks out of place.

This is a very basic alarm install and with relays and extra sirens, there are tons of additional possibilities. I'll put a video up later of my hatch and truck alarms going off to show what else can be done.

Due to time, I'll be installing the door lock actuautor later and posting pics as well.

There are alot of alarm myths out there. Pretty much all of them are wrong, or just passed down from years of being circulated. When purchasing an alarm, make sure you get a quality one with good quality support and a lifetime warranty. Make sure you go to a reputable shop to get it done as well. Ask how the connections are made and try and speak to the installer doing the job.

I install fvor a living, but don't do many alarms. I've been doing this for over 12 years professionaly and avoid alarms like th plague. But, even I can do an old civic. The ef's are very simple and a no-brainer since they are so simple. I do all the EF's when they coe in, mainly cause I have a special place in my heart for them...lol..

But seriously, if you do the alarm yourself, take your time. Plan everything out ahead of time, and if you get in over your head: Stop and ask someone a question. Electronics can be pretty hard to troubleshoot. Make sure your connections are solid and everything is secure. As long as that's done, you're pretty much set.

Thanks for all the help in the past H-T, this is a small contribution back for all everyone has helped me with.

I'll be updating this with the actuator pics and install later along with videos of my other vehicles and rundowns of what they have.

UPDATED FOR ACTUATOR AND VIDS!!!!!!!!!



Pull the door panel off.



Actuator and hardware. Note how small it is....



Put the wires in a vise if possible, or have someone hold them still.






Put the wires in a drill and spin. This twists the wires and keeps them together. Saves on tape as well.

Connect the butt connectors on the actuator.





Mount the actuator. Make sure the actuator rod is parallel to the lock rod. Try and keep this as straight as possible and has no binds in it.



This is what it should look like when done and mounted.



I use a drill battery to check and confirm it works and nothing binds.









Run the wire in the grommet, split loom it, run into the car and secure it so it does'nt get caught in any hinges.



Remount the door panel and hook up the wies to the alarm.

http://video.tinypic.com/player.php?v=4caw4lj


This is what the alarm sounds like when triggered. The parking lights flash and the siren goes off. This is the basic setup that most people have. It may not keep someone out of your car, but, most theives will strike a car without an alarm, just to avoid the attention. I have the shock sensor set low to prevet false alarms.

http://video.tinypic.com/player.php?v=40cnads

Since I treasure my eg hatch alot more, there is alot more done to it. Of course the starter kill, but I also added a fuel cut off, ecu cut off and a distributor cut off. So, when the alarm is triggered, it cuts power to the fuel pump, ecu AND the dizzy. Hot wire it all you want, but there is no way it will start. As you can see, the headlights flash, the horn honks and the siren goes off. There are also piezo sirens (very tiny and high pitched) INSIDE the car. If you are inside the car when it goes ff, it'll drive ya crazy. I park this thing in my garage at night and it sits in front of me all day (on nice days), so, it's well secured.

It is the exact same model alarm in both hatches. Just alot more work and relays in the grey one.

Enjoy.


Modified by VegaS10 at 9:16 AM 11/23/2006

 

Modified by Rex-Si at 7:42 PM 11/22/2006

 

I need to do this soon!

 

could you finish it so somebody can use it? btw so far it looks great

 

I hit "post" before I finished. My apologies to those I left hanging...

 

Looks good man.

 

nice write up

 

Much better , awsome write up.
Yeah , i figured it was a work in progress but was hoping you would not forget to update the post.
Looks good

 

 

job well done

 

ive been installing for 3 years. your install is a fine example of how that should be done.

for those wanting even more security check out this thread i made a while back:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1554546

nice writeup.

 

Im gonna have to do this too with all the theives around here.

Also How much would a basic alarm like that cost?

Nice write-up btw

 

At my shop, an install with this alarm is $199 installed. To add a lock actuator is roughly $80ish per door. I'm only doing the driver door since I'm usually alone in this car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VegaS10 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">At my shop, an install with this alarm is $199 installed. To add a lock actuator is roughly $80ish per door. I'm only doing the driver door since I'm usually alone in this car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Cool I just might do it, I would do it myself to save some money though, just because im cheap like that.

 

Bump for more pics and vids....

 

I just installed my alarm in my crx and your write up was perfict. Thanks
My next project is to add the door locks and I think that will be it.

once again great write up and thanks

 

$4.99 and u get all the wiring diagram u need to install your alarm, even tells you the colors of wires and where to find them

http://members.tripod.com/alarmtek/werx1.html?

used them several of times

 

the worst thing you could have done was post pics of the location... now they can steal it sooooo easly cuz they know where the siren is and the brain

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16civster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the worst thing you could have done was post pics of the location... now they can steal it sooooo easly cuz they know where the siren is and the brain </TD></TR></TABLE>

You are wrong there. See thats part of the misconception about. His car is a lot harder to steal than a newer car with OEM security-WHY? Because you really don't know where to look and even from under that dash his wiring will look like oem honda wiring to the untrained eye. You really think a theif is gonna spend the time to tear up the dash looking for his alarm to discconect it? Time is their enemy-the longer they are at the scene the risk of getting caught increases.
I say bravo to him for doing it.

Good job- I'll see you in the lanes Bro' StA rules

 

yezzzzirrrr

 

 

the only thing i would do different is install the sedan door handles and mount the led in the mirror,,,,ususally lets theives no its not a simple "best buy" install..I like how you put the brain behind the cluster ,,mine was to big to put there so i put it behind the 1/4 panel interior,,and have a piezo to on the opposite side...what do you think about the radar/proximity sensors? its about $50 add-on to my system and im about to get one..and what door lock actuators did you use? i got the autoloc so far they're ok..

also to the guy a couple posts up,,the12volt.com is free..no need to spend $5 for a diagram...

 

Nice,.

 

Holy ****!!! What's up Chuck? I'll be back in St. A next season. Glad to see ya here.

I'm not a big fan of proximity sensors. They can be difficult to set properly and tend to draw unnecessary attenion if falsely triggered, ie: someone walking by and the alarm chirps.

The actuaor is a DEI 524n. Smallest one available to my knowledge.

I only use DEI products due to where I work, but, I know that Alpine makes a great proximity sensor that is very easy to set. Something you may want to research.

I mounted the LED low for the same reason. You have to be looking in the car to even see it. I don't want a bright flashing light to draw attention. On this car, I opted to go more low-key. My fullsize truck has LED's in the taillights, side mirrors AND front parking lights. But that's another story.

Theives in my area are the more "break and ******" group. They break a window and take what they can in a matter of seconds. There is a VERY VERY low car theft rate where I live. They mainly go for radios and cd cases here. If theives are casing an area, they will skip a car with an alarm just to avoid the attention. And if they do break in, they will move faster.

Thanks for the props so far.

 

Glad to see you here as well Alan . I know I'm doing bass race for sure next season,may do street -it all depends on when the rules come out. Should be fun.

Back to topic:

-Don't be afraid of proxes. They are very sensitive to humidity-I normally tell a person it takes 2 setting to get it "perfect". If I install it doing the warm months I have them come back in when it gets cold and vice versa. A nice 3' buffer in the hot muggy summer can turn into a 12' public nusance in late fall .
- I'm a fan of full visability-its just me. I can understand where your coming from though. THere are really 2 schools of thought when it comes to led placement:
-"typical" placement=kwickie sub par install
-"non typical"= this is gonna be a bitch!
You have proven,that is not always the case

I hope this will inspire our brethern to take steps to protect our cars,'cause I'm just a lil tired of the stolen car posts.