has anyone bleed a clutch before, I have done it but would like some additional info if possible. any tips ot advise please, thanks!!

 

get a speed bleeder for that sucker, makes things so much easier.

 

Opps, with the old fashion method... don't have the time to buy them, besides the local stores don't haver them in stock and the guy at autozone had no clue what the f ck i was talking about...

 

Same way you bleed your brakes.

 

OK thanks ... thought so, just wanted to ask to see if i was missing something...

 

open the valve and pump the clutch pedal slowly (you don't have to close the valve everytime) and make sure to keep the level topped up.

Will

 

Thanks everyone!

 

-RJ.....speedbleeder spring will not aloow proper bleeding, air will still be trapped.

willard.......you have to close the bleeder to prevent air being sucked back in.

Clutch bleeding is a 2.5-3 person job to be done right. One pumping, one bleeding, and a idiot to make sure clutch resivoir doesn't run dry.

It can be done by yourself, using a traffic cone to hold the clutch pedal down.

Don;t ask where I got the cone!

 

The negative head that the fluid in the attached hose provides is more than the master cylinder generates (with the cap off of the reservoir) when you bring the pedal back up. Just do it slow and steady and the screw does not need to be closed.

Will
-who is not crazy and has seen this work

 

On the different clutches I've bled, the clutch pedal stays on the floor and has to be pulled up. *shrug*

 

4doorH22.......

your are correct............


Pump clutch pedal 2-3 things, use cone to hold pedal on the floor, walk around, open bleeder, close bleeder, move cone, pull up pedal, and pump, repeat again..........and again...........................................an d again................egad it was a PITA!

 

ya got that right, I used almost a quart of fluid before the pedal felt ok

 

Oh, I see, that is a more efficient one-person method.
What I've been doing, which takes a lot more walking back and forth:

Open bleed screw.
Sip beer.
Push clutch pedal to floor.
Sip beer.
Close bleed screw.
Sip beer.
Lift clutch pedal.
Sip beer.
Repeat.

Needless to say I am trashed and tired when done.

 

if you would drink the beer instead of all those sips, the job might go a little quicker

 

If you let the tiny resevior go dry (3 pedal pumps will empty it), it's a PITA to get the air out.

So, don't let the res go dry (as I did this past weekend).

 

What the heck is the capacity of the system? I've always been able to change my brake and clutch fluid on the same quart of ATE brake fluid. You guys are talking about a quart to do a clutch bleed!?! Much more than I thought was necessary.

 

Couldn't you save some time (but use more new fluid) if you suck out most of the old fluid in the clutch reservior (with something like a turkey baster) and add the new stuff before you actually start bleeding the system? I've often thought that would be better than pulling all the cruddy old fluid through the line...

 

is there a link where they show how to do it?
just had to ask.

 

Yup. I use a paper towel to soak up all the crap fluid out of the reservior instead of a turkey baster. Its cheaper, and dosent mess up a perfectly good tukey baster,,,gravy is better than brake fluid IMO.
Anyway, the way I bleed my clutch works very well. Ive tried all the methods listed already and none work as well as this.

You NEED 2 people.

1. Pump pedal slowly 4-5 times.
2. Push pedal down about 1 in. to cause slight pressure (so air wont be immediately sucked in when you open the bleeder screw.)
3. Have someone crack bleeder screw
4. Scream when it hits the floor
5. Pull pedal up SLOWLY by HAND once the bleeder screw is closed.
6. Repeat process until all the crap fluid has been flushed through, or 5+ times if just bleeding.

The last 2 or 3 times I usually have the guy close the bleeder screw when the pedal is half way down just for security. Usually do the same when bleeding brakes BTW.
Hope this helps.

 

Not for nothing but i still have a shitty pedal feeling it engages very high almost at the top.


I tried many time bleeding it and i still get the same result. could it have to do with the type of clutch i put in or is it that hard to get all of the air out of the system?????

 

hyd clutch systems normally engage at the top of the pedal travel. Makes for quicker shifting IMHO.

 

Sometimes with a new clutch the engagement can be right at the top or bottom of the pedal travel which is very uncomfortable. This can be dialed-out by loosening the nut on the shaft on the back of the clutch pedal and adjusting accordingly. Do NOT, however, put any preload on the clutch master cylinder.

 

4doorh22, could ths be done without take the tranny out of the car?, If so where is the peice you mentioned?


Thanks

 

Easy! This has nothing to do with the tranny. It's in the footwell where your pedals are. On the back of the clutch pedal is a rod. Loosen the nut on this rod and adjust. Put some slack in the rod to make your clutch engage further down the pedal's travel, take slack out of the rod to make your clutch engage early in the pedal travel.

HTH

 

wow thanks!!! can't belive its that easy, gotta run outside and try