Post all your replies to the other thread here in order to keep that one clean so I can add to it later. Please do not address the questions to me directly as there are plenty of people here that can help you and offer their perspective. The contributions here will go into the other thread.

Here are the problems I've found so far:
formatting paragraphs is a little off
"I don't say please"... but I did say please. I'm so nice.
specify "yellow crimpers" "Unfortunately, the [yellow] crimpers shown in the pictures are not the right crimpers."
Tools/Supplies img broken

Wasn't expecting George Knighton to respond so quickly! Thanks GK!


Modified by suspendedHatch at 10:23 AM 10/28/2006

 

Good job on the write up. Now If everyone here reads this. We can cut back on all the car thefts going on. And we can make it harder to steal our pride and joy. Now I know every one has a budget but don't let that get you down. The basic is the way to start. Then work your way up. I'll try to answer as many pm's as possiable. But I too have a job, lol. So if it sound like a stupied question please feel free to ask. Like "fcm" sig. There is no stupied question just stupied answers.

 

Im in the same boat lol....I too have a full time job as well as laying the groundwork to take it to the next level ,plus a wife and 3 year old twins-whew-that enough. I'll try to answer any question as best as I can and also respond to pm's in a timelt manner.

 

Let's get some real nasty criticism in here. I can take it. I'm going to do a revision and I want to get it all done once. What needs to be changed/clarified/added/deleted?

 

OK me me me me first, on the sticky you show how to crimp a terminal to a wire, and you say to fold bare wire over insulated part and crimp over both, my question is why would you do that, would that not mean less "metal to metal" contact, I can see that it would give much better "grip" to the wire for the terminal, but would the contact area loss be worth it?

Otherwise good write up 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by audioroach &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im in the same boat lol....I too have a full time job as well as laying the groundwork to take it to the next level ,plus a wife and 3 year old twins-whew-that enough. I'll try to answer any question as best as I can and also respond to pm's in a timelt manner.</TD></TR></TABLE>

twins? oooo dam. I see two new honda driver in the future, Better start saving. Two brand new floating tegs in the future. I wonder what the exhaust would look like, lol.

 

Good point fcm. It's not the most desirable method but it works well for alarms IMO. I wouldn't recommend it for a sensitive connection like a sensor. The reasons I do that are 1) on ring terminals/butt connectors that are designed to work for a gauge range instead of a specific gauge, using the smaller end of that range causes the connection to be loose. ie a 14-16 gauge butt connector and you're using 16 gauge. 2) the connection is stronger if you pinch some of the insulation into the butt connector. Now that I'm using the Channel Lock 909 crimpers exclusively, I haven't had any problems with inconsistent crimps. I rarely do any crimps any more except of course for ring terminals and spade connectors. I'll go back and redo the crimp how-to. That was a copy/paste from the site and it was created before I found the channel locks.

Anything else you can tear into is very much appreciated. I'm not the kind to get offended by criticism, although I might defend my methods to the death sometimes. Unfortunately I lose that battle because I don't have the experience that you have!

Anything I should add to the thread? I could be more specific about the battery backup and stuff like that but they already come with excellent instructions.

 

^^^^^ I feel you on this. I sometimes do the same thing. Its good for noob because they do not have the crimppers do do the job, And some don't have the cash to buy them.

 

I figured it had to do with covering a wider range of gauges of wire, and I do get annal about things like that, I strip 1/2" tin it, then fold it over, [1/4"] do a very light crimp, [just to hold] then solder, [light crimp so solder can flow] for fully insulated connectors, I do the same and make a hard crimp while wire/solder is still hot, [as they can't be soldered afterwards

No I did not see anything else really, that I wouldn't do myself, a few examples, [pix] of depinning diff. types of pins/plugs would probably be a lot of help for anyone who has not done it, and how to avoid soldering the alarm/starter lead so it interferes with the "locking" of the pin when re-pinning it. 94

 

With regards to the power source for the alarm.

I recall on your site that you suggested we could source power from alternate wiring (I.e Trunk light in Integra's).

Do you no longer suggest doing this ? If so why not ?

Also may want to suggest a few alternate sources of power that can be used (maybe not for the brain but for door locks, etc). Sources i guess could include Amp Wiring.

Also may want to add these posts to it.

How to splice sensors together.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1616425

and how to wire in additional sirens using a relay
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1620550

 

Any place that has 12volts is a good spot to pull 12volt for a alarm brain. Just make sure the wire can handel it. And make sure that you are using a back up battery too. I strong suggest that anyone not put there alarm brain in the rear corner panel of either side of there integra's. Especialy next to the power antenna. This is the first spot theives go to for looking for lo-jack. The reason why is because there is constant 12v source there. MEMBERS IF YOU HAVE LO-JACK IN YOUR CAR OR BOUGHT A USED CAR INTEGRA 94-01, PLEASE CHECK THIS SPOT AND RELOCATE YOUR UNIT. THE ANTENNA IS ALSO ON THE BACK TRUNK WALL. All theives go to this spot first. Let bust out all of the secrect. Well not all.

 

fcm:

I'll take pics of de-pinning alarm connectors.

I'm not sure what you meant here and if maybe you had a typo. "how to avoid soldering the alarm/starter lead so it interferes with the "locking" of the pin when re-pinning it." You want it to interfere? And you're talking about the starter lead.... starter isn't something I mess with much anymore. I tap into the ignition and constant that way, but for the start kill function I usually go to the fuel pump wire.

kavehman:

I no longer feel like the diodes are all that necessary when splicing sensors together. I don't use them for pin switches except if there's a dash indicator. In fact on my car, I don't mind if the hood pin indicates the trunk open dash indicator. It's a good way to check if the pin is still getting a good ground. But I'd isolate say the door from the trunk if I wanted them to share a trigger for some reason. You'll notice that DEI doesn't diode isolate their glass breakage sensor from their shock sensor when they give you that y harness.

fcm, what do you think? Are diodes all that necessary like I have in this pic:

I don't believe in using more than two sirens. What I could do is make one or two universal relay wiring diagrams for the "wtf is a relay" section. It really doesn't matter what's on the relay, it's going to be wired basically the same.

Well, there are several problems with just using a constant 12v that you found if you don't really know what it is. Say for instance, you had the doors closed when you were testing the wires. The door trigger would appear to be a constant 12v. On the Integra, there's a constant 12v for the trunk light, but the circuit has a very small fuse. You're fine oversizing that fuse, but it's not something I can recommend universally. And none of the other Hondas I have done a stealth install have turned up a good source for constant back there. So I recommend my stealth method at the fuse panel or a stealth tap into the pin on the white wire under the dash. You always have the battery backup as well.

wrx-killer-Sti eater: I feel like that's a good spot for a stealth alarm vs a lo-jack because the alarm gives the thief a very short time limit. It's a valid point so I think what I will do is create an alternative how-to for the center console. I can dig through my volumes of install pics and find that type of install. If you have another location lmk. The only other place I can fathom is deep into the dash but I never did find your magic spot.

I've got a lot of work to do. Anyone want to share the burden?

 

Here let me grab some of that load I'll give you a pm

 

Not a typo, phrasing or grammar maybe, what I meant to say was how to solder a wire from an alarm, remote start or alarm/remote start combo unit to an oem pin so it does not, [how to avoid] interfere with the locking mechanism that holds the pin in place in the plug.

Like you I do not have a diode on my hood-pin and trunk/hatch trigger, [so my hatch light and dash indicator will come on if my hood is open] no biggie.

I do however always, [as should be done] install diodes if 2 sensors share the same input and of coarse if multiple triggers, [door pin-switches] have to stay isolated from each other, or as you mention if you want to combine trunk/hatch with the doors, [although alarms with only one input for both hood and trunk/hatch are on the way out] 94

 

So you're saying the way I tapped into the ignition pin is getting in the way of the locking tab? Hm. I gave it a good yank. But it does have that white piece that locks them all into place. How should I have it?

Bottom line is the diagram stays as is or needs to be modified?

Yo voy a dar en la madre. Don't try to translate that. You only understand if you're Mexican.

 

I've always wondered about LoJack, AirIQ and some of the other GSP/cell phone tracking systems and how a battery backup would be installed. How can you tell when your backup is getting low? Or is it recharged when the car is on?

 

Well most good tracking units have a built in back- up battery. Most alarms you have to add it to them. All dei units have the back-up battery built into there units. All long as the back-up is connected to the car it stays charged. so if you disconnect the car battery the unit starts to pull off of the back-up battery. Which should last for a couple hours to a day for the alarm back-up battery. To 2-3 days for the gps unit with the built in back-up battery.

 

Be sure to state to tap the door sensor by the bump thing.. So the door sensor is set off with the driver door as well.

 

And a How to tuck the steering harness underneath might not be a bad idea including changing the hexagon bolts to pickproof screws+JB welding 'em in.

 

No No No, not what I am saying, what I am suggesting is that you add a piece on that , "How To Solder To Pins Without Interfering With Locking Mechanism" feel free to use the title 94

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jay J &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Be sure to state to tap the door sensor by the bump thing.. So the door sensor is set off with the driver door as well. </TD></TR></TABLE> "bump thing"????

 

Jay J, I have no idea what you're trying to say.

fcm, I think I have what you're saying but it's down in the "Ignition 12V" section.

Come on guys, stop trying to be succinct. Believe it or not, I'm not familiar with all these tricks you're referring to. Don't give me a sentence when I need a paragraph. Hell, give me some pics too. If this is all left up to me, it's seriously going to take a few months. I'll give you full credit. I'll do the spelling/grammar/editing.

 

i have a q why is it that removable steering wheels are not a good deterent

 

A tutorial on how to tuck the ignition harness and how to make the steering colum pick proof might not be a bad idea?..
Taking out the 8mm bolts and switching them with 8mm screws. grinding their heads off and using JB weld on the threads.

 

Removable steering wheels are no good because I keep seeing people report that their car still got stolen regardless. I would not trust NRGs new design even.

I don't know of any 8mm bolts on the steering column. I just replaced my steering column. I also don't know of any theft advantage to dropping the column. And I wouldn't do anything to the car that isn't reversible.

I'll include the ignition harness tuck on the next update.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teamsoy1320 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a q why is it that removable steering wheels are not a good deterent</TD></TR></TABLE>

Because it still easy to drive the car with big ole vise grips. Especialy if the car has power steering.