Just put in a Brand new ERL Turbo H22 Block, sleeves, forged bottom end, removed balance shafts, all (by ERL) and hooked up a mechanical oil pressure guage. With the spark plugs out we cranked the engine over for about a minute to make sure that it was making oil pressue. The guage is reading absolutely zero pressure. Double checked with another guage to make sure. We checked and double checked to make sure everything was properly installed. Probably going to drop the oil pan tomorrow and trouble shoot from the inside. I was told of a similar experience with another ERL block (B20LS/VTEC), but they just fired it up and it's still running fine 12K miles later (AF-P DUNC on Honda-Tech). Worked fine for him, but I'm scared to take the same chance. Any suggestions or experiences?

 

how long did you crank? what weight oil? bearing clearances? where are you tapping for the gauge?

 

Just start the thing. You cannot build pressure in a brand new block by cranking it. Trust the people you chose to have done it right.

 

why is that? im in the prosess of building a h22 sleeved by rs. (curious)

 

when i first went to start mine it did the same thing. erl block to. actually sean was there when we where starting it. just ended up starting it and it was fine built oil pressure immeditalety. just start it.

 

the whole bottom end should be pre-lubed from the build any ways. just start it and within a couple seconds you'll see pressure.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just start the thing. You cannot build pressure in a brand new block by cranking it. Trust the people you chose to have done it right. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh and it's a B18LS/VTEC Mario...get it right haha! Keep me posted with the progress. Feel free to call me anytime tomorrow if you have any questions. I have only have classes from 9:00-9:50am and then from 2:00-2:50pm.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GT40eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when i first went to start mine it did the same thing. erl block to. actually sean was there when we where starting it. just ended up starting it and it was fine built oil pressure immeditalety. just start it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep that's exactly what I had to do with my ERL block.

 

That's what i've been thinking, just wanted to make sure. I don't have the spec sheet but I think it was close to OEM clearances, around .020 on everything, but like i said, i don't have the spec sheet here. Running conventional 5W30 until those babies seat.

I dealt w/ Sean at ERL too, I'll probably shoot him an email as well to triple check. I definitely trust ERL, I'm just paranoid since this is my third engine... Thanks for the input ppl.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AF-P Dunc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Oh and it's a B18LS/VTEC Mario...get it right haha! Keep me posted with the progress. Feel free to call me anytime tomorrow if you have any questions. I have only have classes from 9:00-9:50am and then from 2:00-2:50pm.

Yep that's exactly what I had to do with my ERL block.</TD></TR></TABLE>

b18 huh? what's your bore size again? haha. Thanks for the support mang. If it blows up I'm suing you ALL!

 

B18 is the LS block....B20 is a different block (I believe the CRV??). It's a 2.0 liter block, but still classified as a B18

 

Doesn't matter what that code plate says. You're still getting owned once I totally gut my interior, lexan windows, chop top, CF everything, go on a two week hollywood juice diet, and ride out sitting on a milk carton... oh wait, still need to start my motor successfully and get it tuned, do'h!.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by McLude2nR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Doesn't matter what that code plate says. You're still getting owned once I totally gut my interior, lexan windows, chop top, CF everything, go on a two week hollywood juice diet, and ride out sitting on a milk carton... oh wait, still need to start my motor successfully and get it tuned, do'h!. </TD></TR></TABLE>

haha, I think it'll be closer than you think. Too bad we're going to have to wait for a couple months for warmer weather

 

Did you put oil in the oil pump when you put it on?

If not, you've been spinning a metal gear inside its housing without any lubrication.

I was afraid to just start my first motor too........I have picture of what it did to the oil pump, within 6 months I had oil pump/low pressure issues and I had to replace the pump. It was not pretty.

I just start all my motors now....if it doesn't build pressure in a few seconds I shut it off and diagnose.

 

<U>Update:</U>

Dropped the oil pan to find that the Oil Squirter passages are not plugged. So the questions are:

How will this effect my oil pressure? Should the oil squirter holes be plugged with something like the Golden Eagle plugs or will ordinary bolts do. The engine and turbo kit are already installed and everything else is ready to go so I'm looking for a quick resolution, but willing to wait if the GE plugs are a must.

 

If regular bolts will clear the crank by a couple MM's then your fine.

I would plug them as you oil pressure will go up some.

most people use the special bolts cause they head on them is low profile to clear the crank.

I know in my GSR, I used an LS crank and even the OEM bolts would hit the crank so I had the holes plugged. I've seen people grind down the bolts where needed to clear the crank.

 

Ok, thanks. And yes the oil pump was greased and lubed with oil when we put it on.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by McLude2nR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><U>Update:</U>

Dropped the oil pan to find that the Oil Squirter passages are not plugged. So the questions are:

How will this effect my oil pressure? Should the oil squirter holes be plugged with something like the Golden Eagle plugs or will ordinary bolts do. The engine and turbo kit are already installed and everything else is ready to go so I'm looking for a quick resolution, but willing to wait if the GE plugs are a must. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Last time I will post on this...trust the guys who built the motor and leave everything alone. You may have already voided your warranty. If you have squirters, leave them alone. You cannot put just any bolt in that hole to plug it. That is why GE makes special bolts for it. Just start it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Last time I will post on this...trust the guys who built the motor and leave everything alone. You may have already voided your warranty. If you have squirters, leave them alone. You cannot put just any bolt in that hole to plug it. That is why GE makes special bolts for it. Just start it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

What do you know Earl?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Last time I will post on this...trust the guys who built the motor and leave everything alone. You may have already voided your warranty. If you have squirters, leave them alone. You cannot put just any bolt in that hole to plug it. That is why GE makes special bolts for it. Just start it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Did not have squirters when it went to the builder, so it didn't have them when they came back, but they did not plug them. I thought plugging them would increase pressue. I found some bolts that fit in there perfectly. What could happen though? They'll back out or leak as opposed to the GE plugs?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by McLude2nR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did not have squirters when it went to the builder, so it didn't have them when they came back, but they did not plug them. I thought plugging them would increase pressue. I found some bolts that fit in there perfectly. What could happen though? They'll back out or leak as opposed to the GE plugs?</TD></TR></TABLE>Or fall out and bang everything up.

 

Hey Mario, I thought of this when I got off the phone with you but give Sean at ERL a quick call. Ask him since he built the motor...he'll know.

 

^ I did, he's not in. I shot him an email. Thanks mang.

 

dude get the ge plugs and just start it . but get the ge plug.

 

Plugged the holes, checkd for clearance. Fired it up. Two loud clacks, then she started hummin smooth with no noise. Showed pressue, but very low. 6-7 psi ish at the autometer, but the factory light didn't come on, which I think turns on at 7.5. So I removed the nylon line that's going to the autometer and attached a Snap-On guage directly to the sending unit. Fired it up again. Heard the same two loud clacks. Oil pressue held very weakly around 20-25 psi. Car was running for 30 seconds to a minute before we shut it off and would not climb past 25 psi.................

 

Come to think of it, I think the clacking noise is the starter going out.