I have a pr3 head and a b18c1 block. I am really wanting more power from the motor but want to stay away from boost and shots. Can anyone give any type of suggestions for an all motor Poor man's type r? Head work, block work? Can everyone post the parts and model? Thanks.

 

ahh i wanna do the same engine setup, i didnt really look into a whole lotta stuff yet but i was thinkin about some ITR pistons and ITB's for mine

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1jdmferio &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ahh i wanna do the same engine setup, i didnt really look into a whole lotta stuff yet but i was thinkin about some ITR pistons and ITB's for mine</TD></TR></TABLE>

Damn, that's gonna be expensive..

What are your current mods such as bolt on's,etc.

I'd go with a nice Port and polish, Badass header, Maybe some jun 3 cams & some nice titanium retainers and dual valve springs and a nice tune and rev the hell out of it... That should be good for 200+ WHP depending on exact setup.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jimmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Damn, that's gonna be expensive..

</TD></TR></TABLE>

i plan on it being expensive haha

the car is getting put in a garage and torn apart in january when i get a new DD and goooood things will be coming...
keep a lookout for a RHD conversion on a 4 door write-up and more!

 

No replacement for displacement.

Bore that SOB and mill the head.

 

Here is my current setup:

pr3 head
b18c1 block
Skunk 2 intake manifold
Skunk 2 cam gears
4-1 Header
3 inch intake
customer Apex'i N1 3-inch catback
type r injectors

Im just looking for a 20+ hp boost. i'm wondering if i am able to do this with higher compression pistons i.e. itr or pr3, and head work i.e. cams, etc.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No replacement for displacement.

Bore that SOB and mill the head.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i definitely agree...gives you more options to do more things

 

Here is my set up. Im not all motor because Ive been there and it sucked ***.

Im only looking for 300hp-350hp.

Built B16a2 head Zero Miles
Stock GSR Block
Ls Tranny
CTR Cams
ITR Intake Mani
ITR Tb
780cc Injectors
Herms Fab B-series Tube Mani
Herms Fab 5 Bolt 3 Inch Down pipe
Kteller Full 3inch Exhaust
Magnaflow Oval muffler
60 Trim T3/T4 Zero Miles
2.5 steel piping powdercoated Black. (At the Shop Now)
28X8X3 FMIC
Tial BOV
Tial 38mm wastegate
Full MSD System
JDM ITR Valve Cover & Oil cap
ACT Prolite Flywheel
ACT HD PP
ACT SS Disc

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1jdmferio &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i plan on it being expensive haha
</TD></TR></TABLE>

than it wouldnt necessarily be a "poor mans type r"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fracas &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is my set up. Im not all motor because Ive been there and it sucked ***.

Im only looking for 300hp-350hp.

Built B16a2 head Zero Miles
Stock GSR Block
Ls Tranny
CTR Cams
ITR Intake Mani
ITR Tb
780cc Injectors
Herms Fab B-series Tube Mani
Herms Fab 5 Bolt 3 Inch Down pipe
Kteller Full 3inch Exhaust
Magnaflow Oval muffler
60 Trim T3/T4 Zero Miles
2.5 steel piping powdercoated Black. (At the Shop Now)
28X8X3 FMIC
Tial BOV
Tial 38mm wastegate
Full MSD System
JDM ITR Valve Cover & Oil cap
ACT Prolite Flywheel
ACT HD PP
ACT SS Disc

</TD></TR></TABLE>

you not building it right. i love my all motor set-up. 233hp.

but for a poor mans, just get some b16 pr3 pistons or itr, get at least a valve job done and freshen up the head, get some valvetrain, cams, and a nice race header

 

Go with some CTR pistons, have your crank balanced, then choose whichever combination of cams/injectors you want based on what you are gonna use the car for.. skunk2 stage one cams with some mild injectors would be a good setup, and all that would probably get you close to 200hp after tune

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turboeg831 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is my current setup:

pr3 head
b18c1 block
Skunk 2 intake manifold
Skunk 2 cam gears
4-1 Header
3 inch intake
customer Apex'i N1 3-inch catback
type r injectors

Im just looking for a 20+ hp boost. i'm wondering if i am able to do this with higher compression pistons i.e. itr or pr3, and head work i.e. cams, etc.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

If that shortblock and head are both all stock, you do not have a "poorman's r" You need <U>at least</U> USDM ITR pistons and ITR cams.

My setup made 195whp/138 wlb/tq

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1775142

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No replacement for displacement.

Bore that SOB and mill the head.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Stroker kit baby, stroker...

Dishttp://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW or dat...http://crower.com/cat/import/h...shtml

 

B16A or B16B pistons.

A common mistake on a poor man's ITR is using ITR pistons, but they actually have a smaller dome on them than standard US-Spec or JDM-spec B16A pistons.

"But the ITR engine has higher CR than a B16A, so it's impossible that a B16A/B piston has a higher dome."

CR is not only about piston dome/dish - it also has everything to do with stroke too. B16A pistons yield higher CR in an other wise stock Integra Type R engine than its own ITR pistons because the dome has to be higher on a B16A piston to achieve a 10.2:1CR in a 1.6L bottom end because of the decreased stroke.

Just some food for thought.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by O RLY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Stroker kit baby, stroker...
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Stroker = won't last nearly as long as a sleeved/overbored stock stroke B series engine.

 

Just so you know Tom, I only said ITR because me specifically would've been in the 12:1 range with P30s. I was too scurred

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkoundrelUSA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just so you know Tom, I only said ITR because me specifically would've been in the 12:1 range with P30s. I was too scurred </TD></TR></TABLE>

I was typing that reply up right after the OP posted the topic, but I got busy here at the shop with a few customers and lunch, so I finished typing my reply.

I wasn't replying to you since I had not even read your reply yet.



I was speaking more to one of the first replies or the initial post that mentioned ITR pistons.

Oh and for the "N/A sucked ***" tubro guy good for you. This isn't a boost topic, so i'm not sure why you felt the need to bust out with a full list and pics when its completely off-topic, but I'm glad you like your turbo set-up. I'm not here to say "turbo sucks" or "N/A rules" - I'm just replying to the subject at hand with actual pertinent info, not off-topic stuff. You might as well have posted "I love my K swap because I went b series and they suck ***." Makes the same point, you know?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Stroker = won't last nearly as long as a sleeved/overbored stock stroke B series engine.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, but if he's hardcore about it, and only races with it, the stroker is right down his alley. Unless he plans on putting 45,000 miles on the engine, I would still recommend the stroker kit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by O RLY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yes, but if he's hardcore about it, and only races with it, the stroker is right down his alley. Unless he plans on putting 45,000 miles on the engine, I would still recommend the stroker kit.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow I think 45,000 miles is still a very optimistic goal.



I guess I'm used to more budget-oriented thinking, such as building an engine once and being done with it as opposed to rebuilds every year or so.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I guess I'm used to more budget-oriented thinking, such as building an engine once and being done with it as opposed to rebuilds every year or so.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Word, build it once. Especially for a dd.

I would put a lil boost on it personally. 6-8 lbs tuned.

 

what is a Pr3 head?

trying to learn more here&lt;&lt;&lt;
thank you

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black Cloud EG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what is a Pr3 head?

trying to learn more here&lt;&lt;&lt;
thank you</TD></TR></TABLE>

B16, type R, CTR, B17(I think) heads

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkoundrelUSA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

B16, type R, CTR, B17(I think) heads</TD></TR></TABLE>

sp P3r can be anyone of those?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black Cloud EG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

sp P3r can be anyone of those?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes.

the only difference in the actual head casting when it comes to the ITR vs. B16a is that the ITR head has mild porting and polishing from the factory.

In essence if you are having a good port and polish job done anyways, buy the cheaper B16A head and both heads will flow the exact same if identical port work is done to them both.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B16A or B16B pistons.

A common mistake on a poor man's ITR is using ITR pistons, but they actually have a smaller dome on them than standard US-Spec or JDM-spec B16A pistons.

"But the ITR engine has higher CR than a B16A, so it's impossible that a B16A/B piston has a higher dome."

CR is not only about piston dome/dish - it also has everything to do with stroke too. B16A pistons yield higher CR in an other wise stock Integra Type R engine than its own ITR pistons because the dome has to be higher on a B16A piston to achieve a 10.2:1CR in a 1.6L bottom end because of the decreased stroke.

Just some food for thought.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well actually Tom, you should specify USDM ITR (P73-A0) vs JDM ITR (P73-00) pistons and also USDM B16A (PR3) vs JDM B16A (P30) pistons because it will make a difference.

If you are building a "poor man's type r" which I never really understood, because I would rather just have an entire GSR engine w/ cylinder head as well, but to each their own.

Compression height also plays a roll which is one of the reason's why you can't go off of C-Speed's calculator because some parts will be wrong.

Just as an example using a 100% stock (undecked, standard bore etc...) GSR block and a 100% stock (unmilled, standard valves, combustion chambers etc...)PR3 head:

USDM ITR(P73-A0) = 10.8:1 compression (no shocker there)
USDM B16A(PR3) = 11.03:1 compression

Now here's where it gets interesting...

JDM B16A(P30) = 11.24:1 compression (dome is 6.93cc)
JDM ITR(P73-00) = 11.32:1 compression (dome is 5.96cc)

Now how is that possible? Well you have to account for compression height which is from the center of the wrist pin hole. The P30's are 30.00mm, but the P73-00's are 30.23mm and actually will be closer to the head when it reaches the peak of it's stroke, therefor raising the compression.