I've posted a tranny problem a month ago, claiming that i could not get out of gear at high rpm. Thanks for your guys input. Anyway, I've found the problem. Apparently when something goes wrong w/ the clutch disc, it causes vibrations and won't disengage completely. Here are the pics. This is a exedy stage 1 clutch, with about 10K miles on it. There's probably 3 or 4 track events on the clutch. Which I don't think is much for a clutch to go THIS bad:

lets take a closer look at the springs:
3 out of the 4 spring holders were cracked

 

.....this is a common problem with the exedy stage 1 or whatever.

 

while I'm at it, I've also had bad experience with clutchmaster. I've had this clutch before the Exedy. This clutch had about 15K miles on it with a handfull of track events as well. I DO NOT drag race, and my car is N.A., and dyno'ed at 195 whp, so its not like my car is making crazy power to do this kind of wear
This is a clutchmaster stage 4 clutch. 4 puck unsprung. this is supposed to be one of their full blown race clutches, capable of holding 400+hp drag racing (or something like that)

notice the rivets holding the center hub onto the disc. You could see where it originally was how much play there is now. I could rotate the hub a good 10 to 15 degrees in either direction.

 

if you are only making 195whp, no need to upgrade the clutch IMO. stick with OEM. and definitely no need for a 4 puck unsprung.

 

hmm i htink i got the same kind of clutch.. only have 3000-4000 miles on them now.. one track event..

i hope it holds up on my 200 whp motor

 

damn son, you must be hard on clutches. you have got to be shifting unnecessarily hard or something. exedy stage 1 is almost the same exact thing as a stock ITR cutch, same pressure plate, etc..

try shifting little smoother. i had a clutchmasters FX300 in a turbo LS hatch, beat the fukc out of it, and never had a problem. same deal with an ACT XTSS and HDSS. exedy is good stuff, but i've sen a few problems out of it on hard-beaten cars. oh well...

 

I had the same thing happen to my OE clutch but only one spring broke. It happened during a day of drag racing a few months after I got the car. I am running the same Exedy clutch now and it has seen at least 30000km with no probs. When you beat on the car **** is going to break. Play=Pay

 

I have an exedy and have no problems. Few track days and still no problems.

 

I use an ACT 6 puck unsprung disk on my ITR making 230/160. On the drag car. I launch it hard. Clutch hasnt failed be. pressure plate wears out a lot because i use stock ones off customers car that i do clutch jobs on. Last weekend I actually had a pressure plate break at the Rivets Holding the disk to the Springs. It was pretty sweet.

But yes, I think a 4puck is too much for nearly anything, especially street app.

And the OE spec Daiken/Exedy shouldnt be subjected to that much abuse. I have read and heard though that Road cars go through a lot more clutch abuse than drag cars. I know my DA had an OE spec Daiken and I dragged the hell out of that thing. It never gave me a hard time or anything, but I would think during a road race, temps rise and you use it a lot more so you would need something stronger.

-Francisco

 

been running an exedy stage 1 ~50,000 miles ... guess i'm lucky

 

I have the same clutch and no problems yet..... I'm pretty hard on my car too.

 

I have the Exedy stg1 clutch. It works fine for me. Too much beating on the clutch, thats probably why your clutch looks bad.


Modified by MasterFunk at 4:12 PM 9/26/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM Factor &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have an exedy and have no problems. Few track days and still no problems. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Same here. I'm using it on my 00 si also and almost 50,000 miles going strong.


Modified by realis9 at 12:55 PM 9/26/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you are only making 195whp, no need to upgrade the clutch IMO. stick with OEM. and definitely no need for a 4 puck unsprung. </TD></TR></TABLE>


fwiw, i was able to spin the crap out of aftermarket clutches with only 191whp...

I think a reasonable uprgade is whatever is rated to hold a bit more than the tq you're making.

 

Probably these high pow clutches works on a race car since a tear down is every race or more often a street car is going through.

OEM seems to have good reliability record esp if you're making less than 200whp.

 

ive has exedy and i went through a simialr problem i couldnt get it into any gear i will never buy a exedy clutch again they suck

 

ditching my crazy Cusco for the exedy stage 1 sitting in my room

 

yea i dont know......... ive had my stage1 for right at 50k and mine has never slipped on me once...... its probly been through about 100 passes down the 1/4 and to probly 15 or so auto-x's

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RPRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I use an ACT 6 puck unsprung disk on my ITR making 230/160. On the drag car. I launch it hard. Clutch hasnt failed be. pressure plate wears out a lot because i use stock ones off customers car that i do clutch jobs on. Last weekend I actually had a pressure plate break at the Rivets Holding the disk to the Springs. It was pretty sweet. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I had an ACT pressure plate break in the same place a couple weeks ago, right at the rivet. My wife helped me change a clutch/pressure plate in the mud at 4:30 AM at a track. I still don't know how we finally got that stupid tranny lined up in the dark with just the two of us.

She's a sucker... err.. I mean, I really love her!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

... err.. I mean, I really love her! </TD></TR></TABLE>


err....you mean she really loves you!!!!! to understanding wives who help work on cars!!!! wait i don't have that many thumbs

 

damn. I know that feeling all too well. Between rounds at the first NOPI race this year, i had to do a trans swap, luckily i had a hint it was time before I went up for the race. Its hard enough finding a good enough car buddy to help line up a trans, your girl gets lots of kudos from me for doing it;that late at that too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> wait i don't have that many thumbs</TD></TR></TABLE>

I should get her some flowers, and a bunch of -shaped balloons.

 

Just wondering (constructively here....) do you shift like you are drag racing when you are lapping on a track?

I've watched some videos of others that just bang the gears like they're doing a really long drag run.

Also, how do you downshift? I've also seen some where they just let the clutch out in one swift motion with no rev matching. Over a 20-30min session, I can see that being an issue.

A buddy of mine experienced some overfueling or vac. problem (can't remember) but it was basically causing the car to be very lazy when he blipped it and \would constantly miss the downshift by at least 1000rpm + - after that, the clutch got glazed and the pedal got soft. It took a few days of easy driving before the pedal returned, and that clutch is still going strong today.

ITR pressure plate with ACT S-Organic disc in a B16A hatch and then into a B18C5 hatch.

 

I had the same problem with my Exedy clutch disc, it broke in the same place

 

I've been in the market for a new clutch and have my eyes set on an Exedy clutch.

Back then Exedy use to market on their website and magazines that their clutches were "Made In Japan"....well...after hearing story after story of how they break, I decided to do some research. I found out that most of the Exedy clutches are Made In Japan, EXCEPT for the Stage 1 clutch that is Made In USA.

Just an FYI.