Well, after i sold the Quad 4 CRX yesterday i realized i was down to just one car for the first time since i was 16 (about 5 years ago). That was solved about 6 hours later when i bought this 90 Civic DX for $200 from the kid across the street:








The timing belt was snapped some time ago and a new one was put on. The guy says the car will run but stall almost immediately. The battery is completely FUBAR so ive been unable to test that as of yet.

The car came with the following things:

OEM Honda clutch still in box
OEM Honda water pump still in box
Misc. OEM honda seals and bearings still in bags
Rear mounted battery
Big goofy tach.
Short shifter
RUST!!
Si intake manifold, assorted wiring, and fuel rail
Spare instrument cluster
13" ARE wheels
spare coolant and washer fluid resivoirs
spare distributor
spare rear view mirrors
Honda car care kit
Spare O2 sensor still in box
Spare set of axles
Hood
fender
rear bumper

Im doing this mainly to learn better how to work on cars. Ive got an OK knowledge as of now but plan on this being a huge learning experience.

When finished, the car will be used mainly for autocross and as a back-up daily driver. Im also trying to keep the budget under $2000 dollars to be eligible for the grassroots motorsports challenge.

Im unsure yet if ill keep this motor, we'll see what the budget allows when im done. Look for picture intensive updates in the coming weeks!

Let the fun begin!!


Modified by JDN169 at 5:27 PM 9/17/2006

 

wow, i wuold be scared of the right rear quarter panel.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ekslax &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow, i wuold be scared of the right rear quarter panel.</TD></TR></TABLE>

two words: Fender flares

After i cut out the rot that is.

Oh, and this is my first EF, so please excuse any n00b questions i may have.


Modified by JDN169 at 4:50 PM 9/17/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ekslax &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow, i wuold be scared of the right rear quarter panel.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ya but where there's a will, there's a way. shouldn't cost too much if you can DIY with some cutting and welding some new metal there. good luck bud

-melloman

 

Noob question #1: How do i remove the rear seat backs?

 

There's like two little clips on wither side of the seat you gotta remove. The slide it off and undo a 10 mm on the bottom cushion. peice of cake.

 

well when u get that bicth runnin like a champ all JDM'd out and what not you go across tha street and tell that kidd thanx ...go buy bro...keep at and good luck

 

Looky what i found hiding under the driver's seat, a spare ECU!:


No floor rot, for some reason (almost) all of the rust seems to be in that one quarter panel...




Hopefully ill have the rest of the interior out in a few days, very little is going back in .

 

HOLY crap thats a gang load of rust!

 

Well, i was sick for the past week and a half so ive barely even looked at the car, my parts Fiero also took up the spare garage space so things are a little tight.

With that out of the way, when i try to jump the car, all the accesories work fine (blower motor, lights, etc.) but the car cranks really sloooow. So im still unsure as to whether or not it'll run as is, any idea why everything would work fine but it would crank so slowly (it's sat for 1+ years).

thanks!

Jacques

 

Check your oil, not only the level but the viscosity, and i would take the sparkplugs out, check them out, and while you have them out, see how hard it is to rotate the motor. I wouldnt be surprised is the oil is gummed up in the bearing causing it to be difficult to turn over, i would just pull the motor, and take the oil pan off, and see what you get, go ahead and do a headgasket, and make sure the oil pan isnt warped. do all new gaskets and seals, see what condition the sleeves are in. you get the idea. you will probably only hurt the motor more trying to crank it.

 

Just traded my spare distributor and gauge cluster for this:



more than likiely an ebay special but it'll clean up nice and cant be worse than the stock manifold.

So cost so far is $200.

 

oo keep it up, everyone gotta learn man.

 

any updates?

 

Wow man with rust like that you would be better off getting a shell for a $100 or 2.
There's no fender flairs that are going to save that, it's going down the hole side.

What will happe it you will get sick of the car before you even get started.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CBURKE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow man with rust like that you would be better off getting a shell for a $100 or 2.
There's no fender flairs that are going to save that, it's going down the hole side.

What will happe it you will get sick of the car before you even get started.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Id be more freaked out by the rust but that's the only place on the car with rust worth noting, ive gotta learn somewhere, and i only paid $200 for this one with all the spares.

On that note, i did a little bit of work today, it's not much, but it's progress. Got the seat backs and rear interior out:



Found $1.59 in loose change while dissasembling the interior, so that puts me at $198.41.

If progress seems slow, that's because i work full-time and go to school part-time. I also only try to work on it while the fiance' isn't home, so i dont't make it out to the garage too often.

enjoy,

Jacques


Modified by JDN169 at 8:36 PM 10/23/2006

 

looks as if the project id rolling along quite nicely... and i know what you mean about the work/school shuffle. went through it for 15 months, and now im done. which is why i bought my latest project car... lol

gotta stay busy somehow...

bump for a 2g budget track car

 

good luck on the rear 1/4. Just when you fix it make sure you do it right and not just bondo everything. Trust me you will regret it later.

 

for honda-rot. but that really doesn't look too rough to fix. just some cutting and welding.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDN169 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just traded my spare distributor and gauge cluster for this:

http://www.redpepperracing.com...5.JPG

more than likiely an ebay special but it'll clean up nice and cant be worse than the stock manifold.

So cost so far is $200.</TD></TR></TABLE>

uhm, from looking at your pictures, it seems the kid was putting together the parts for an MPFI swap - that "spare" ecu won't work with the DPFI that's on the car. it's an Si ecu. so that "spare" distributor you traded was probably the MPFI distributor, which is needed for the swap. you will want to do an MPFI swap no matter whether you keep that motor or swap it, so i'd be careful trading any more "spare" parts.

 

that rust is just whoa!

 

Am i the only one who noticed the pm6 ecu?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jhota &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> for honda-rot. but that really doesn't look too rough to fix. just some cutting and welding.

uhm, from looking at your pictures, it seems the kid was putting together the parts for an MPFI swap - that "spare" ecu won't work with the DPFI that's on the car. it's an Si ecu. so that "spare" distributor you traded was probably the MPFI distributor, which is needed for the swap. you will want to do an MPFI swap no matter whether you keep that motor or swap it, so i'd be careful trading any more "spare" parts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i understand what's needed, but it's an easy way to recoup budget money, also, id like to swap if at all possible. Even if not, there are plenty of Si's in salvage yards hereabouts.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d16efhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Am i the only one who noticed the pm6 ecu?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Forgive me if it's a noob question, but isnt that just the stock Si ECU?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDN169 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Forgive me if it's a noob question, but isnt that just the stock Si ECU?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

PM6 = D16A6.

88-89 are pretty much un-chippable.
90-91 are chippable.

 

how much did you sold ur yellow crx for may i ask?! i was bumping it for you the whole time

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by igotcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much did you sold ur yellow crx for may i ask?! i was bumping it for you the whole time</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for that BTW.

It only went for $800 , i hope the guy who bought it realizes he got one HELL of a deal.