HOW TO: Make your own "Secondary Key" Anti-hotwire system FOR UNDER $20! (56k = No.)
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From: Not in a Submarine.
HOW TO: Make your own "Secondary Key" Anti-hotwire system FOR UNDER $20! (56k = No.)
Inspired by a post about a successful theft foiling by using a system like this and with the massive post about "My car was stolen" I was inspired to make a nice HOW TO complete with pictures and Radioshack shopping list 
"Secondary key? Wtf is that!?" - It's basically a plug that connects to splices in your Ignition/Fuel Pump/Starter wires, Without the other side of the plug you cannot start, hotwire or even Bumpstart the vehicle. In essence, it's a ghetto ravelco.
WHAT YOU NEED: (Radioshack list/part numbers)
- 2x "2761502" - Male 15pin D-sub connector
- 1x "2671501" - Female 15pin D-sub connector (I bought two, meh)
- 2x "2761508" - Metal housing for 9/15 pin D-Sub connectors
- 1x "2781215" - 100 Feet 22 gauge solid wire, Black
Total Cost: $19.63
TOOLS:
- Soldering Iron
- Solder
- Soldering Flux Paste (This makes it SO MUCH easier)
- Wire cutter/stripper (or razorblade)
- Heatshrink tubing
- Small Flathead Screwdriver
Okay, let's dive right into this!
First things first, how all good projects should start.
Now, My workspace... it's ghetto but it works.
However many splices you wish to do, cut about a foot of wire for each splice. Then you can add extra wire to wire into your cars harness.
Strip that wire you just cut. Repeat for all your wires
These are my connectors, 15 pin Male/Female.
I will mount the male unit somewhere in the car, and put the female unit on my keychain. They go together quite well.
This makes your work so much easier, FLUX. Dip your wire end into the FLUX and then plug into the back of the D-sub connector.
FLUX is a solder attractant, look at that clean little solder joint!
Attatch all your other wires, do a random selection...you're going to want it random.
Now, take the female connector and bend a small piece of wire, like this.
Insert it into the female connector so it "bridges the gap" of the wires from the male connector. Solder it, Do this for all connections.
Now when your female plug is done, insert it into the metal casing, screw together and you're set. I'd put this on a Quick Disconnect on your KEYCHAIN, ensures you always have it and it's easy to connect/disconnect if you so wish.
I'd put some hot glue over the wires so they wont short out(make sure it works first) then decide what wires you want to splice where on the vehicle, LABEL THEM on the Male side of the harness then take a picture of it and put it somewhere safe(incase it happens to get messed up) now simply install it into the car, wire the splices so they cannot be detected then remove the labels for the wires and you've made a killer theft stoping device. ALL of the wires will be black so it's a pain to trace back to the source, especially if you weave it back into the stock harness
**BE SURE TO SPLICE ATLEAST ONE GROUND WIRE, This will make sure that a thief cannot take ALL of you wires, twist them together and start the car.**
I Hope this helps some people, I was bored and it's not too hard to do.
"Secondary key? Wtf is that!?" - It's basically a plug that connects to splices in your Ignition/Fuel Pump/Starter wires, Without the other side of the plug you cannot start, hotwire or even Bumpstart the vehicle. In essence, it's a ghetto ravelco.
WHAT YOU NEED: (Radioshack list/part numbers)
- 2x "2761502" - Male 15pin D-sub connector
- 1x "2671501" - Female 15pin D-sub connector (I bought two, meh)
- 2x "2761508" - Metal housing for 9/15 pin D-Sub connectors
- 1x "2781215" - 100 Feet 22 gauge solid wire, Black
Total Cost: $19.63
TOOLS:
- Soldering Iron
- Solder
- Soldering Flux Paste (This makes it SO MUCH easier)
- Wire cutter/stripper (or razorblade)
- Heatshrink tubing
- Small Flathead Screwdriver
Okay, let's dive right into this!
First things first, how all good projects should start.
Now, My workspace...
it's ghetto but it works.However many splices you wish to do, cut about a foot of wire for each splice. Then you can add extra wire to wire into your cars harness.
Strip that wire you just cut. Repeat for all your wires
These are my connectors, 15 pin Male/Female.
I will mount the male unit somewhere in the car, and put the female unit on my keychain. They go together quite well.
This makes your work so much easier, FLUX. Dip your wire end into the FLUX and then plug into the back of the D-sub connector.
FLUX is a solder attractant, look at that clean little solder joint!
Attatch all your other wires, do a random selection...you're going to want it random.
Now, take the female connector and bend a small piece of wire, like this.
Insert it into the female connector so it "bridges the gap" of the wires from the male connector. Solder it, Do this for all connections.
Now when your female plug is done, insert it into the metal casing, screw together and you're set. I'd put this on a Quick Disconnect on your KEYCHAIN, ensures you always have it and it's easy to connect/disconnect if you so wish.
I'd put some hot glue over the wires so they wont short out(make sure it works first) then decide what wires you want to splice where on the vehicle, LABEL THEM on the Male side of the harness then take a picture of it and put it somewhere safe(incase it happens to get messed up) now simply install it into the car, wire the splices so they cannot be detected then remove the labels for the wires and you've made a killer theft stoping device. ALL of the wires will be black so it's a pain to trace back to the source, especially if you weave it back into the stock harness
**BE SURE TO SPLICE ATLEAST ONE GROUND WIRE, This will make sure that a thief cannot take ALL of you wires, twist them together and start the car.**
I Hope this helps some people, I was bored and it's not too hard to do.
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From: 99 probs but a stolen car aint 1, ca, cerritos/fullerton
Re: HOW TO: Make your own "Secondary Key" Anti-hotwire system FOR UNDER $20! (Kavehman)
good write up. The more layers you come up with the better. 
The more layers you come up with the better.
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Re: HOW TO: Make your own "Secondary Key" Anti-hotwire system FOR UNDER $20! (wrx-killer-Sti eater)
so basically how do you connect wires.. 2 wires from the connectors conecting into 1 wire from the car??
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From: Not in a Submarine.
Re: HOW TO: Make your own "Secondary Key" Anti-hotwire system FOR UNDER $20! (ackavong)
yep, the other side of the plug just bridges the connection. Since the wires are black and weaved back into the stock wiring loom/hidden its very very hard to figure out the connection sequence.
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From: Locash
Re: HOW TO: Make your own "Secondary Key" Anti-hotwire system FOR UNDER $20! (Froth)
I'm sorry but that's pure crap. You get an A for effort. Great writeup. But that wont help one bit. In fact, it makes it easier to hotwire the car. That is the reason why I always remove those types of devices when I install an alarm. I got a pile of them in the garage. They're all yours.
I don't care if it's a biometric eyescan. It's just a fancy switch and it's connection to the car is it's vulnerability. Those wires go to the ignition harness. You can ignore the whole device and just cut it off. You could bundle all the naked wires together if you were dead set on bypassing it. By installing that device, you cut the insulation around the ignition harness off, and the critical starting wires stand out because they are the ones that have been tampered with. Even if you tape it all back up. Trust me, I install and remove alarms and ignition/starter kill devices every day. I am known to steal cars as a prank. If I can do it in seconds, a thief can do it in milliseconds.
All viable kill switches have the following properties. 1) The switch is hidden. In that case, it doesn't have to be a fancy plug/chip etc. It's meant not to be found, so a simple rocker switch will do. 2) The connection to the car is hidden and not readily accessible. It's on a circuit that is not easily bypassed. The starter and ignition circuits are both easily bypassed in the engine bay or at the steering column. So a good kill switch will be on a critical ecu wire or on the fuel pump.
Your intentions are great, and your creativity and ability is great. Revise your idea and I'm sure you will make a great contribution.
I don't care if it's a biometric eyescan. It's just a fancy switch and it's connection to the car is it's vulnerability. Those wires go to the ignition harness. You can ignore the whole device and just cut it off. You could bundle all the naked wires together if you were dead set on bypassing it. By installing that device, you cut the insulation around the ignition harness off, and the critical starting wires stand out because they are the ones that have been tampered with. Even if you tape it all back up. Trust me, I install and remove alarms and ignition/starter kill devices every day. I am known to steal cars as a prank. If I can do it in seconds, a thief can do it in milliseconds.
All viable kill switches have the following properties. 1) The switch is hidden. In that case, it doesn't have to be a fancy plug/chip etc. It's meant not to be found, so a simple rocker switch will do. 2) The connection to the car is hidden and not readily accessible. It's on a circuit that is not easily bypassed. The starter and ignition circuits are both easily bypassed in the engine bay or at the steering column. So a good kill switch will be on a critical ecu wire or on the fuel pump.
Your intentions are great, and your creativity and ability is great. Revise your idea and I'm sure you will make a great contribution.
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From: Not in a Submarine.
Re: HOW TO: Make your own "Secondary Key" Anti-hotwire system FOR UNDER $20! (suspendedHatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm sorry but that's pure crap. You get an A for effort. Great writeup. But that wont help one bit. In fact, it makes it easier to hotwire the car. That is the reason why I always remove those types of devices when I install an alarm. I got a pile of them in the garage. They're all yours.
I don't care if it's a biometric eyescan. It's just a fancy switch and it's connection to the car is it's vulnerability. Those wires go to the ignition harness. You can ignore the whole device and just cut it off. You could bundle all the naked wires together if you were dead set on bypassing it. By installing that device, you cut the insulation around the ignition harness off, and the critical starting wires stand out because they are the ones that have been tampered with. Even if you tape it all back up. Trust me, I install and remove alarms and ignition/starter kill devices every day. I am known to steal cars as a prank. If I can do it in seconds, a thief can do it in milliseconds.
All viable kill switches have the following properties. 1) The switch is hidden. In that case, it doesn't have to be a fancy plug/chip etc. It's meant not to be found, so a simple rocker switch will do. 2) The connection to the car is hidden and not readily accessible. It's on a circuit that is not easily bypassed. The starter and ignition circuits are both easily bypassed in the engine bay or at the steering column. So a good kill switch will be on a critical ecu wire or on the fuel pump.
Your intentions are great, and your creativity and ability is great. Revise your idea and I'm sure you will make a great contribution.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why would I put work into this and throw this into the ignition harness inside the car?
This will be hard wired both through the firewall all the way back to the fuel pump and completly re-loomed and electrical taped, not to mention that one of the wires leads to a GROUND cut so if they so wish to cut all the wires from the back and twist them together they will net themselves nowhere. I'm not doing a rinky-dink install here. Considering that all of these wires are black and that the system ALSO has dummy wires in the back of the 15pin plug filling the entire connector that also follow and are weaved back into the master loom of the vehicle i'm pretty sure that trying to trace the wires to the source would net you plenty of frustration but very little starting of my car
I trust your knowledge, you however need to trust my capabilities
I've noticed you really like the "Eyescan switch" idea as an example as this is not the first time you've used it. I've had normal kill switches in my car for some time now but all it takes is one lucky thief to find your switch, No matter how well hidden if given enough time they will find it. That being said, given enough time im SURE you could sit there and bridge all 15 of my wires one by one until you eventually figure out my combination of wires... That being said I have 15 exposed wires for you to choose from that are all black... That's over 6000 combinations. Good Luck
Edit: - Stealing cars as a prank? Please... Even if I knew you i'd have you arrested for that. There's two things you dont mess with, one is a man's car and the other is his tools.
Modified by Froth at 1:27 AM 9/14/2006
I don't care if it's a biometric eyescan. It's just a fancy switch and it's connection to the car is it's vulnerability. Those wires go to the ignition harness. You can ignore the whole device and just cut it off. You could bundle all the naked wires together if you were dead set on bypassing it. By installing that device, you cut the insulation around the ignition harness off, and the critical starting wires stand out because they are the ones that have been tampered with. Even if you tape it all back up. Trust me, I install and remove alarms and ignition/starter kill devices every day. I am known to steal cars as a prank. If I can do it in seconds, a thief can do it in milliseconds.
All viable kill switches have the following properties. 1) The switch is hidden. In that case, it doesn't have to be a fancy plug/chip etc. It's meant not to be found, so a simple rocker switch will do. 2) The connection to the car is hidden and not readily accessible. It's on a circuit that is not easily bypassed. The starter and ignition circuits are both easily bypassed in the engine bay or at the steering column. So a good kill switch will be on a critical ecu wire or on the fuel pump.
Your intentions are great, and your creativity and ability is great. Revise your idea and I'm sure you will make a great contribution.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why would I put work into this and throw this into the ignition harness inside the car?
This will be hard wired both through the firewall all the way back to the fuel pump and completly re-loomed and electrical taped, not to mention that one of the wires leads to a GROUND cut so if they so wish to cut all the wires from the back and twist them together they will net themselves nowhere. I'm not doing a rinky-dink install here. Considering that all of these wires are black and that the system ALSO has dummy wires in the back of the 15pin plug filling the entire connector that also follow and are weaved back into the master loom of the vehicle i'm pretty sure that trying to trace the wires to the source would net you plenty of frustration but very little starting of my car
I trust your knowledge, you however need to trust my capabilities
I've noticed you really like the "Eyescan switch" idea as an example as this is not the first time you've used it. I've had normal kill switches in my car for some time now but all it takes is one lucky thief to find your switch, No matter how well hidden if given enough time they will find it. That being said, given enough time im SURE you could sit there and bridge all 15 of my wires one by one until you eventually figure out my combination of wires... That being said I have 15 exposed wires for you to choose from that are all black... That's over 6000 combinations. Good Luck
Edit: - Stealing cars as a prank? Please... Even if I knew you i'd have you arrested for that. There's two things you dont mess with, one is a man's car and the other is his tools.
Modified by Froth at 1:27 AM 9/14/2006
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From: Herkimer, NY, USA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i believe my 93 civic dx came with a similar system from honda. </TD></TR></TABLE>
No it didn't.
No it didn't.
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From: Vancouver, WA, US
Re: (B18C_EJ8)
My 93 civic came with a system that's well pretty damn similar, pull the chip out and there was no bridge.
The one the OP has posted is a more complex version. Good write-up
The one the OP has posted is a more complex version. Good write-up
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From: Herkimer, NY, USA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My 93 civic came with a system that's well pretty damn similar, pull the chip out and there was no bridge. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I can assure you that it's not an OEM product.
I can assure you that it's not an OEM product.
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From: kelowna, bc, canada
Re: HOW TO: Make your own "Secondary Key" Anti-hotwire system FOR UNDER $20! (Froth)
Very good tutorial and nice pix also.
I disagree and agree somewhat with suspendedHatch It certainly is not "pure crap" it is much better then 6-7 hidden SPST, [on/off] switches, and if it was hidden even better, and layering onto an alarm is definitely a plus, about the only thing I do agree with suspendedHatch on is using it as a starter/ign. kill, Give me 10 sec. and I will bypass them, no mater where you have them wired, however, find 6-7 crucial leads on the ECU/ECM, and it would take way too long to find and reconnect those leads and then hot-wire the car, I also like the idea of a ground or 2 in there so if they try the twist it all together thing, it will take out a few fuses. I vote 94
I disagree and agree somewhat with suspendedHatch It certainly is not "pure crap" it is much better then 6-7 hidden SPST, [on/off] switches, and if it was hidden even better, and layering onto an alarm is definitely a plus, about the only thing I do agree with suspendedHatch on is using it as a starter/ign. kill, Give me 10 sec. and I will bypass them, no mater where you have them wired, however, find 6-7 crucial leads on the ECU/ECM, and it would take way too long to find and reconnect those leads and then hot-wire the car, I also like the idea of a ground or 2 in there so if they try the twist it all together thing, it will take out a few fuses. I vote
94
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Re: HOW TO: Make your own "Secondary Key" Anti-hotwire system FOR UNDER $20! (fcm)
isn't this like a poor man's ravelco...
bascially???
a ravelco device is just like this...
------
you could sticky it and call it "poor man's ravelco"
bascially???
a ravelco device is just like this...
------
you could sticky it and call it "poor man's ravelco"
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From: Locash
Re: HOW TO: Make your own "Secondary Key" Anti-hotwire system FOR UNDER $20! (Froth)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why would I put work into this and throw this into the ignition harness inside the car?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't know why you would. But that's what everyone does. That's where the dealerships always put it. They're the ones that put out these style of switches. You never specify in the writeup where/how you are connecting it to the car. Why didn't you include this most critical info in the writeup?
Why would you run it through the firewall if you intended to hook it up to the fuel pump wire?
The biometrics example I use is pure sarcasm. It's the most sophisticated and ridiculous switch that I can think of. The point is that it doesn't matter how fancy the switch is. Just bypass the connection to the car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I trust your knowledge, you however need to trust my capabilities</TD></TR></TABLE>
What are you talking about? I don't know you or anyone on internet forums, so how can I "trust your capabilities". Don't trust my "knowledge"! I can make some good suggestions but I'm not the authority people make me out to be.
If you're "giving the thief enough time" then you're doing something wrong. I guarantee you that a thief will not have enough time to find my killswitch. The time I'm talking about is the amount of time from when he triggers the alarm to the time that I'm standing over him with a bat or he's surrounded by cops.
Sorry to say this, but take an inline fuse holder and a 10amp fuse, connect one end to a power source, then connect the other end to each pin one at a time. If it blows the fuse, it's the grounded wire. If you hear the whirr of the fuel pump, well then you're in business.
Pranks are reserved for friends and they're done partly to teach a lesson. Like the time me and some friends picked up my drunk friend's volkswagon bug and wedged it between two palm trees to prevent him from driving. And besides, that was buttfucking hilarious.
Anyway, with the clarifications you made, I think it's a worthwhile thing to do. Keep up the good work. It's good to start seeing some creative ideas come out and take the focus away from my screen name and focused on the point we're trying to get across. Especially since I can't seem to find the time to revise or update my site.
I don't know why you would. But that's what everyone does. That's where the dealerships always put it. They're the ones that put out these style of switches. You never specify in the writeup where/how you are connecting it to the car. Why didn't you include this most critical info in the writeup?
Why would you run it through the firewall if you intended to hook it up to the fuel pump wire?
The biometrics example I use is pure sarcasm. It's the most sophisticated and ridiculous switch that I can think of. The point is that it doesn't matter how fancy the switch is. Just bypass the connection to the car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I trust your knowledge, you however need to trust my capabilities</TD></TR></TABLE>
What are you talking about? I don't know you or anyone on internet forums, so how can I "trust your capabilities". Don't trust my "knowledge"! I can make some good suggestions but I'm not the authority people make me out to be.
If you're "giving the thief enough time" then you're doing something wrong. I guarantee you that a thief will not have enough time to find my killswitch. The time I'm talking about is the amount of time from when he triggers the alarm to the time that I'm standing over him with a bat or he's surrounded by cops.
Sorry to say this, but take an inline fuse holder and a 10amp fuse, connect one end to a power source, then connect the other end to each pin one at a time. If it blows the fuse, it's the grounded wire. If you hear the whirr of the fuel pump, well then you're in business.
Pranks are reserved for friends and they're done partly to teach a lesson. Like the time me and some friends picked up my drunk friend's volkswagon bug and wedged it between two palm trees to prevent him from driving. And besides, that was buttfucking hilarious.
Anyway, with the clarifications you made, I think it's a worthwhile thing to do.
Keep up the good work. It's good to start seeing some creative ideas come out and take the focus away from my screen name and focused on the point we're trying to get across. Especially since I can't seem to find the time to revise or update my site.
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Re: HOW TO: Make your own "Secondary Key" Anti-hotwire system FOR UNDER $20! (suspendedHatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I don't know why you would. But that's what everyone does. That's where the dealerships always put it. They're the ones that put out these style of switches. You never specify in the writeup where/how you are connecting it to the car. Why didn't you include this most critical info in the writeup?
Why would you run it through the firewall if you intended to hook it up to the fuel pump wire?
The biometrics example I use is pure sarcasm. It's the most sophisticated and ridiculous switch that I can think of. The point is that it doesn't matter how fancy the switch is. Just bypass the connection to the car.
What are you talking about? I don't know you or anyone on internet forums, so how can I "trust your capabilities". Don't trust my "knowledge"! I can make some good suggestions but I'm not the authority people make me out to be.
If you're "giving the thief enough time" then you're doing something wrong. I guarantee you that a thief will not have enough time to find my killswitch. The time I'm talking about is the amount of time from when he triggers the alarm to the time that I'm standing over him with a bat or he's surrounded by cops.
Sorry to say this, but take an inline fuse holder and a 10amp fuse, connect one end to a power source, then connect the other end to each pin one at a time. If it blows the fuse, it's the grounded wire. If you hear the whirr of the fuel pump, well then you're in business.
Pranks are reserved for friends and they're done partly to teach a lesson. Like the time me and some friends picked up my drunk friend's volkswagon bug and wedged it between two palm trees to prevent him from driving. And besides, that was buttfucking hilarious.
Anyway, with the clarifications you made, I think it's a worthwhile thing to do. Keep up the good work. It's good to start seeing some creative ideas come out and take the focus away from my screen name and focused on the point we're trying to get across. Especially since I can't seem to find the time to revise or update my site.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I see were you are coming from, I think its a good write up. It a good ideal vs the standered fuel kill switch. But hey the more the better. thumbs up for your ideal. Take all the neg and add it up. Its not really neg but more pointers to make your ideal better.
I don't know why you would. But that's what everyone does. That's where the dealerships always put it. They're the ones that put out these style of switches. You never specify in the writeup where/how you are connecting it to the car. Why didn't you include this most critical info in the writeup?
Why would you run it through the firewall if you intended to hook it up to the fuel pump wire?
The biometrics example I use is pure sarcasm. It's the most sophisticated and ridiculous switch that I can think of. The point is that it doesn't matter how fancy the switch is. Just bypass the connection to the car.
What are you talking about? I don't know you or anyone on internet forums, so how can I "trust your capabilities". Don't trust my "knowledge"! I can make some good suggestions but I'm not the authority people make me out to be.
If you're "giving the thief enough time" then you're doing something wrong. I guarantee you that a thief will not have enough time to find my killswitch. The time I'm talking about is the amount of time from when he triggers the alarm to the time that I'm standing over him with a bat or he's surrounded by cops.
Sorry to say this, but take an inline fuse holder and a 10amp fuse, connect one end to a power source, then connect the other end to each pin one at a time. If it blows the fuse, it's the grounded wire. If you hear the whirr of the fuel pump, well then you're in business.
Pranks are reserved for friends and they're done partly to teach a lesson. Like the time me and some friends picked up my drunk friend's volkswagon bug and wedged it between two palm trees to prevent him from driving. And besides, that was buttfucking hilarious.
Anyway, with the clarifications you made, I think it's a worthwhile thing to do.
Keep up the good work. It's good to start seeing some creative ideas come out and take the focus away from my screen name and focused on the point we're trying to get across. Especially since I can't seem to find the time to revise or update my site.</TD></TR></TABLE> I see were you are coming from, I think its a good write up. It a good ideal vs the standered fuel kill switch. But hey the more the better. thumbs up for your ideal. Take all the neg and add it up. Its not really neg but more pointers to make your ideal better.
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From: Not in a Submarine.
Re: HOW TO: Make your own "Secondary Key" Anti-hotwire system FOR UNDER $20! (suspendedHatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why would you run it through the firewall if you intended to hook it up to the fuel pump wire?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Meh, I meant to say "Both through the firewall and to the fuel pump" But my brain got the better of me at the time...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't trust my "knowledge"! I can make some good suggestions but I'm not the authority people make me out to be.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I read your site, it's the kind of thing that gives you slightly more credibility than anyone else that would say the same thing. The time it took to make that, even if you don't update it shows some sort of drive in the thwarting of theft... so I'll give you the benefit of the doubt over someone else
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sorry to say this, but take an inline fuse holder and a 10amp fuse, connect one end to a power source, then connect the other end to each pin one at a time. If it blows the fuse, it's the grounded wire. If you hear the whirr of the fuel pump, well then you're in business.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If they have the time to do that, and at the same time find my OTHER fuel pump kill switch...then they're pretty damn swift. Bottom line is if they want your car bad enough they're going to get it, Be it by flatbed or whatever.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyway, with the clarifications you made, I think it's a worthwhile thing to do. Keep up the good work. It's good to start seeing some creative ideas come out and take the focus away from my screen name and focused on the point we're trying to get across. Especially since I can't seem to find the time to revise or update my site.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks for the constructive criticism, it's motivated me enough to improve the design a bit. I took your first post a bit defensivley at first but after reading it two or three times it came across diffrently. Meh.
Meh, I meant to say "Both through the firewall and to the fuel pump" But my brain got the better of me at the time...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't trust my "knowledge"! I can make some good suggestions but I'm not the authority people make me out to be.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I read your site, it's the kind of thing that gives you slightly more credibility than anyone else that would say the same thing. The time it took to make that, even if you don't update it shows some sort of drive in the thwarting of theft... so I'll give you the benefit of the doubt over someone else
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sorry to say this, but take an inline fuse holder and a 10amp fuse, connect one end to a power source, then connect the other end to each pin one at a time. If it blows the fuse, it's the grounded wire. If you hear the whirr of the fuel pump, well then you're in business.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If they have the time to do that, and at the same time find my OTHER fuel pump kill switch...then they're pretty damn swift. Bottom line is if they want your car bad enough they're going to get it, Be it by flatbed or whatever.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyway, with the clarifications you made, I think it's a worthwhile thing to do.
Keep up the good work. It's good to start seeing some creative ideas come out and take the focus away from my screen name and focused on the point we're trying to get across. Especially since I can't seem to find the time to revise or update my site.</TD></TR></TABLE> thanks for the constructive criticism, it's motivated me enough to improve the design a bit. I took your first post a bit defensivley at first but after reading it two or three times it came across diffrently. Meh.
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another question . can someone just go buy a female connector and use it to turn it on?? is there a way to open up the female connector and mess with some of the wires to miss for example uper pin 2 to connect with lower pin5 and vise versa so anothe female connector wont be the same?
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Re: (92b16si)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92b16si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">another question . can someone just go buy a female connector and use it to turn it on?? is there a way to open up the female connector and mess with some of the wires to miss for example uper pin 2 to connect with lower pin5 and vise versa so anothe female connector wont be the same?</TD></TR></TABLE>
no. because how would they know???
no. because how would they know???
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Re: (beebeecivic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beebeecivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
no. because how would they know??? </TD></TR></TABLE>
just as an extra precausion mesure . so in other words can it be done?
no. because how would they know??? </TD></TR></TABLE>
just as an extra precausion mesure . so in other words can it be done?
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Re: (92b16si)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92b16si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just as an extra precausion mesure . so in other words can it be done?</TD></TR></TABLE> No, you choose your own wiring configuration. if you use 15 diffrent wires theres over 6000 possible combinations. You can use 8 Diffrent wires to cut four connections (Fuel, Ground, Starter, Ignition signal from ECU) and then run FAKE wires for the others to make a full 15. This makes it even harder to defeat because how do they know which wires are real? To make it harder they're all black!
The Female connector should be your own random selection.
Use this for an example:
MALE Connector, Wired to car
-----------------------------------
Pins 1 , 8 - Fuel
Pins 2 , 12 - Starter
Pins 3 , 10 - Ground
Pins 4 , 7 - Ignition signal from ECU
Now, you should Jump the SAME PINS on the FEMALE connector for each connection so it completes the connection. This ensures it's completly unique to your car and very hard to figure out.
Modified by Froth at 8:30 PM 9/19/2006
The Female connector should be your own random selection.
Use this for an example:
MALE Connector, Wired to car
-----------------------------------
Pins 1 , 8 - Fuel
Pins 2 , 12 - Starter
Pins 3 , 10 - Ground
Pins 4 , 7 - Ignition signal from ECU
Now, you should Jump the SAME PINS on the FEMALE connector for each connection so it completes the connection. This ensures it's completly unique to your car and very hard to figure out.
Modified by Froth at 8:30 PM 9/19/2006
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Re: (Froth)
Im still a bit confused Ill guess ill learn as i try it this weekend is it cool if i Pm you Froth ?? or can you make us a dummy diagram or how to do it step by step. I went to radio shack today and I sort of know what your talking about. Im probably just over thinking this .
edit: just read what you posted and thats exsactly what i was saying i was just over thinking it thanks froth
edit: just read what you posted and thats exsactly what i was saying i was just over thinking it thanks froth