I was wondering if the cross drilled rotors were lighter then stock? If so would I be able to notice any performance gains because they are lighter?
What is a good brand to go with when looking at Cross Drilled Rotors. I will be doing some dragracing but mostly street driving.

 

For street driving, I don't think you'll find anything that is inherrently BAD but most agree that they have a shorter lifespan and cost a ton more (opposed to blanks). As for lightening the load, they should be lighter but IMO, you could save the same weight with a lighter set of rims and that cost would keep giving whereas the rotors would have to be replaced more often than blanks.

 

*Yawn*

Clicky for big fun!

Pick it up about page 3

 

"friends dont let friends buy cross-drilled rotors" was the phrase repeated all weekend @ CMP

 

- and it is completely unrelated to his question.

 

sort of. the general consensus is to avoid cross-drilled/slotted rotors and go with OEM/Brembo blanks.

 

Crossdrilling nowadays is often used for weight reduction in solid rotors, which doesn't really apply to our cars.

 

Whose general consensus? The question as it pertains to drag racing is perfectly valid, anything you can do to drop the rotational mass would seem like a good idea to me too. The general consensus that road races says that slotted rotors are bad? Who are you talking to? Racecar drivers or guys like us who tow vehicles to and from the track and have relatively small budgets or cannot run them based on series rules? To blast out they are BAD irrespective of the application IMHO is misinformative.

 

just take the rotors off......the ultimate in weight savings

 

The general consensus of people who use this message forum, who he is asking

I sure dont want my brake rotors cracking/failing as i'm slowing down from 100+ mph with concrete walls on either side of me

Because road racing and track days are the hardest use that most any car will see. Back to back 100+ to 30-40 mph stops again, and again, often with little chance for the brakes to cool. Its been shown again and again that the cross-drilled rotors (especially those of cheaper variety) crack. Solid rotors *will* crack as well, but often take much longer to do so and they are less prone to it.

Everyone. Even if they were allowed in the rules, i would bet that you would see a very small percentage of drivers using them. Even a relatively small racing budget is still significant when things like rotors are replaced several times per season. An extra $30-40 per rotor is not going to break the bank at that rate.

I dont think i am doing this. Follow cobra's link to the discussion on altimas.net, for what its worth, alot of good information was presented.

 

Stop the X-drilled madness!!!

No fingers being pointed here... X-drilled rotors are commonly used in drag racing a source of weight reduction. Fair question?

 

If there more than a 4 oz difference between drilled and undrilled, I'd be shocked. You'd drop more weight by taking a crap before your run.

Not worth the cost, IMO. You'll never notice a difference.

 

(but I'd have to agree with Matt...)

 

the weight difference would be miniscule unless you drill 500 holes into your rotor. you can probably save more weight by getting lighter wheel lugs...
i doubt you or your 1/4 mile time will see a difference


just my opinion...

 

I don't disagree with Matt in the slightest (and I think my initial post reflects that) - just don't think it was an invalid question nor did it deserve a link to the altima.net site since the this was totally different - he ain't selling them, he ain't talking anyone into them, he asked a question.

- also, according to a friend who ran them on track for some time, the holes eventually clot with brake dust and they a.) cease to breathe affecting the "cooling" they were supposed to do in the first and b.) she thought they probably weighed the same as blanks with all the brake dust filling the holes

 

Posting the link was not an implication that he was trying to sell them. He was asking about the benefits of the drilled rotors over a blank. I think there is more than enough good info in that thread that is 100% relevant to his question.

 

Apologies Drew, I thought it appeared we were going to bring that thread over here and I was hoping to avoid berating someone for whom I thought had a valid question.

 

I agree completely that it was a valid question. Instead of trying to rehash some data I figured I would just send him to the mother load of cross-drilled rotor info.

 

if you have a 95 Si then cant you change out your front knuckles to those of a cx for smaller rotors?
then get great pads and yer all set.

the 95 si stock rotors are so small and puny already that I cant imagine a set of drilled ones being that much of an improvement in drag racing. really, I cant see it.

 

Yes, they are certainly lighter. No, neither you nor the clock will likely notice the difference. If there is a clever way that you can be sure that the pads retract from the rotors before a run, that would eliminate the drag from them riding along there. Run drums on the back instead of disks for the same reason but, again, we are talking about millionths here.

Kirk

 

why don't the drag racers just use the thinest possible rotors they find..
the only need to stop the car once

drag racers should cross drill their tires


why don't they just take that silly wing off the roof's of their cars to eliminate weight and drag...
oh yeah... the extra fuba antenna
the side marker lights
the leds
the heavy shiny exhaust tip
They should install a 1/2 width radiator from a civic instead of their full width integra radiator

what else would slow down a drag racer..

oh yeah..

3 JL audio 15W6's
2 PPI 600watt amplifiers

 

fastbrakes offers a drag only application for the civic.
its been available for years now.

 

OEM honda brakes are the best bang for your buck