I have a b18c1 block with CTR pistons and an OEM head gasket, eveything machined. Me and my friends torque down the head with piston 1 at TDC using two steps first 22lbs then 63lbs, that should be the correct way to torque the head down, but when we tried to turn the crank over, it wouldn't budge. Someone told me that CTR pistons pop up slightly and that i needed a thicker head gasket but i wasn't sure if that was true. I'm trying to find out if this is true or not and if it's true what do ya recommend i do for head gaskets.

 

Have you tried turning the motor by hand first?

 

yes thicker headgaskets for shure...oem is not enough, only if you want your compression to be waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay upthere then yes leave the oem HG, as for me, im actually putting 2 headgaskets together (with a special sealent ofcourse), so which makes it a 6 layer headgasket, which should bring down the compression ratio to safe numbers, so i can run safe on 91 octane

 

the head gasket isn't going to change anthing as far as if it will turn or not. Did the engine turn before you put the head on? You can run on a stock gasket your just going to need a pretty big cam.

 

I've turned the block over without the head and it turned just fine. I've heard of poeple putting two head gaskets together but that sounds pretty risky. Supposively Cometic makes thick head gaskets but my friends say they aren't big fans of their HG, but i dont know anyone else that could make thicker and reliable HG. As far as cams i have Buddy Clubs spec 5 so now im concerned about valve clearance.

 

Why would you use a ctr piston in a b18c.Your looking at being in the high 13's:1.To much to make any power w/pump fuel.Anyway you need to have at least .030" between the piston and head.Take the head off and measure how far the piston is above the deck (if that's the issue) and add .030" and that's the minimum gasket thickness you will need.

 

.040 is a safer clearance. especially if you plan on reving over 9k.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drigotegi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> but when we tried to turn the crank over, it wouldn't budge. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Wait a second. Are you trying to turn this over by hand? Once the head is on you really won't be able to. A socket on the crank will move it for you though.....asuming that you are trying to turn it by hand.

 

well i just came from the shop with my 2 oem layer headgasket and let me tell you....it feels much better, it's running really well with 91 octane. yup i have 2, 3 layer headgasket. and ctr pistons in a gsr, is not 13.1, it's 12.7-12.8, why do i know this?...we did a compression test on it....13.1 on an LS crank maybe, but piston to valve clearance is ok with even HSL cams i believe...but it's quite a risk

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The Converted &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Wait a second. Are you trying to turn this over by hand? Once the head is on you really won't be able to. A socket on the crank will move it for you though.....asuming that you are trying to turn it by hand.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I used a socket and rachet and it still didnt move and a pipe for leverage. But ima try that 2 HG thing hopefully ill get some good results too, thanx peoples!

 

The head gasket isn't going to make the difference. I have pretty much the same set up as you, I'm just running the BC4's instead of the 5's and i'm not having any issues. You shouldn't really have to worry about the compression with those cams anyway as long as it gets tuned well. I'd start trouble shooting by taking off the cams and see if it turns then before you go and spend money an a second head gasket that you don't/might not need.

Mark

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by noob_saibot &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i just came from the shop with my 2 oem layer headgasket and let me tell you....it feels much better, it's running really well with 91 octane. yup i have 2, 3 layer headgasket. and ctr pistons in a gsr, is not 13.1, it's 12.7-12.8, why do i know this?...we did a compression test on it....13.1 on an LS crank maybe, but piston to valve clearance is ok with even HSL cams i believe...but it's quite a risk</TD></TR></TABLE>

You did a compression test that told you your compression ratio?

 

It's a dynamic compression guage.

 

He should market that!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by noob_saibot &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes thicker headgaskets for shure...oem is not enough, only if you want your compression to be waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay upthere then yes leave the oem HG, as for me, im actually putting 2 headgaskets together (with a special sealent ofcourse), so which makes it a 6 layer headgasket, which should bring down the compression ratio to safe numbers, so i can run safe on 91 octane</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've ran a B18c with CTR in US Touring Car and Honda Challenge for two years. You DO NOT need two headgaskets. I revved it to 9200-9500 for 30-45minute road races.
The reason why it's tough to turn the crank by hand is because the compression is so high.


You're looking at 12.8X: 1 static compression. for <U>THE MOST ACCURATE </U>compression calculator go to: http://zealautowerks.com

If you do not want the high compression of the CTR pistons, use the USDM Type R pistons with a regular OEM head gasket. It doesn't make sense to use the heavier CTR pistons (heavier on the rotating mass of engine-which lowers overall RELIABLE revs) with TWO head gaskets just to lower the compression.

Personally, I found the CTR pistons in the B18c to be one of the best engine/pistons combo I've ever used.

hope that helps

 

i have ctr pistons in a b18c5 with stock head and toda c's. Comp guage said 300 across the board and i did each cyl 3 times. i can turn mine over with a 1/2 ratchet if you need a pipe something is wrong way wrong. dont get me wrong it isnt easy turning over but i dont need a damn pipe.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecjj &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Personally, I found the CTR pistons in the B18c to be one of the best engine/pistons combo I've ever used.

hope that helps</TD></TR></TABLE>

likewise....but just tell me what octane did you use?.....thats the only reason why i went for the 6 layer headgasket, and still pinging, i have to retard timing....dammit i should of went for the JDM b16's

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CW_98gsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

likewise....but just tell me what octane did you use?.....thats the only reason why i went for the 6 layer headgasket, and still pinging, i have to retard timing....dammit i should of went for the JDM b16's</TD></TR></TABLE>

Since it was a race engine, I used 100 octane even with timing advanced to 18 deg.

 

I just blew up my B18c1 with CTR piston in mine. I ran that set up for about a year b4 it blew up with pump 91, tune with Hondata. I was also using a 3 layer oem HG. I'm not sure why your crank is not turning but it should with no problem if you dont have the spark plugs in...

 

is the cam timing correct? are the valves hitting the pistons?

 

we were just cheking the motor and the piston hits the head

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drigotegi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I used a socket and rachet and it still didnt move and a pipe for leverage. But ima try that 2 HG thing hopefully ill get some good results too, thanx peoples!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey bro I've got a gsr block with ctr pistons and I'm running a Factory HG, I've got a B16 head thats been milled .040 clayed the motor and have plenty of clearance, What head are you running? I have had intances where people will bring me a head and cam caps from 2 different motors and wouldn't allow the cams to turn and if they did it would skip teeth!

 

I have a 1995 US B18C1 with CTR pisons , stock head gasket , M22 cams and I clayed the engine...lots of clearence and cylinder pressure is at 220-225psi. also have adjustable gears. I run it on 92 octane

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PwrspdAllMotor &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Hey bro I've got a gsr block with ctr pistons and I'm running a Factory HG, I've got a B16 head thats been milled .040 clayed the motor and have plenty of clearance, What head are you running? I have had intances where people will bring me a head and cam caps from 2 different motors and wouldn't allow the cams to turn and if they did it would skip teeth!</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm running a P72-2 head, but I'm wondering what exactly is having the head milled and calyed, cause my friend mentioned it but he didn't eactly explained it to me correctly. Also i measured how much the piston is sticking out of the block a and it was .030, everyone tells me that the pistons shouldn't be sticking out at all. I thought that the block had been machined too much, there's markers on the block as well as on the head that indicate if they were machined too much, but those markers haven't been touched and only cylinder 4 is touching the head, around the edge of the piston. What about .060 TODA head gasket would that help?

 

did u take out the spark plugs? that should help some since its holding the compression in as well

longshot, but give it a try