what do you guys think of knockoff bov's like the fake HKS SSQV or fake Greddy Type RS? I'm planning on making around 190whp only, so not too much power. i was wondering if these are sufficient or should i stay away?

i want proven responses not no "all knockoffs are bad, stay away" comments. i.e. tell me your knockoff is leaking, or your friend had one and it worked perfectly fine, etc. thanks guys

 

fake ebay bov are ok
they are fine

only ting is plastic valve vs metal(real)

 

i have the fake turbo xs rfl BOV and it works great. also, my valve is metal. you really can't go wrong for $30.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stewie8apie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have the fake turbo xs rfl BOV and it works great. also, my valve is metal. you really can't go wrong for $30. </TD></TR></TABLE>

where'd you find it for $30? do they come with flange?

 

I have a fake tial and it looks/sounds/performs just like my friends real Tial.

 

after reading a lot of people buying bootleg manifolds and cracking, i just don't trust the knockoff stuff... just my 2 cents

 

agreed

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TURBOOSTER &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">after reading a lot of people buying bootleg manifolds and cracking, i just don't trust the knockoff stuff... just my 2 cents</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly the response i wasn't looking for.

haha jk it's cool

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SRd240sx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what do you guys think of knockoff bov's like the fake HKS SSQV or fake Greddy Type RS? I'm planning on making around 190whp only, so not too much power. i was wondering if these are sufficient or should i stay away?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

take apart the fake greddy/hks and real greddy/hks and compare,,, you'll see the fake is actually built better...What do you think about that?

 

I'm thinking about going the 'fake' way mainly because the gaskets are done so cheaply, you can make your own every few thousand miles and be fine. The real gaskets are more convoluted than our legal system, and typically cost damn near as much as the BOV itself.

So...in this case I say fukc the name-brands that charge an arm and a leg for a rubber. Honestly, the only time I'd pay $100+ for a circular piece of rubber is if its from a fine-*** chick, covered with 'Trojan', and includes 30mins of her time.


btw, I got a fake RFL for free, only diff on the prev owner's car was that its not as loud as a real TurboXS RFL, and cheaper looking.

 

i found mine on ebay for $30 brand new that came with a flange.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TURBOOSTER &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">after reading a lot of people buying bootleg manifolds and cracking, i just don't trust the knockoff stuff... just my 2 cents</TD></TR></TABLE>

buying a cheap manifold is COMPLETELY different from buying something as simple as a BOV. a manifold is much more vital to the system than a BOV and much more stressfull to replace/repair and could possibly damage other things. whereas, if you find that the BOV is crappy then essentially all you have to do is buy a different one knowing that nothing else could have possibly been damaged. also, which would you rather have break on you in a time of need...a BOV which you really don't need anyways, or the manifold that essentially holds the entire system together and without it the car is hardly drivable/not drivable??

The way i saw it was, spend ~$30 to find out if the cheap one works alright and if it doesn't then i'm only out $30. so far mine has functioned properly, doesn't leak, and sounds awesome

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by njcrxsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

take apart the fake greddy/hks and real greddy/hks and compare,,, you'll see the fake is actually built better...What do you think about that? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well gee because you said so it must be true.. Evidence?

 

expletive bovs! compressor surge for life!

 

Knock off BOV's work great I used the Tial style as well as the Turbo XS knockoffs and they performed flawlessly

 

i use the knock-off tial....only prob i had was on bolt wasnt tight...didnt cause any damage justr would open the valve, took it apart, loctite an put it back together....works perfect!

 

a blow off valve is a blow off valve, I dont think theres much problems in using no name brands. I have a blow off valve made by a friend of mine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TURBOOSTER &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">after reading a lot of people buying bootleg manifolds and cracking, i just don't trust the knockoff stuff... just my 2 cents</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup go buy a 150 bov that work and function the same as a 30 bov, your just paying for the name in this case.

Based on actual personal experience, instead of what i read

 

The fake ssqv NEVER work.. I see one or two of these every week at work... Not worth it in my opinion

 

I have greddy type RS knockoff, it works great and only $40, metal valve also, Im pretty sure they are the exact same thing, the real stuff is more expansive cuz the name on it.

I saw a thread a while ago about the type S knockoff vs. real, the guy took them both apart and every part was the exact same, color, fitment, everything, just no name cast into it.

 

the type rs knock off works great

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stewie8apie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i found mine on ebay for $30 brand new that came with a flange.



buying a cheap manifold is COMPLETELY different from buying something as simple as a BOV. a manifold is much more vital to the system than a BOV and much more stressfull to replace/repair and could possibly damage other things. whereas, if you find that the BOV is crappy then essentially all you have to do is buy a different one knowing that nothing else could have possibly been damaged. also, which would you rather have break on you in a time of need...a BOV which you really don't need anyways, or the manifold that essentially holds the entire system together and without it the car is hardly drivable/not drivable??

The way i saw it was, spend ~$30 to find out if the cheap one works alright and if it doesn't then i'm only out $30. so far mine has functioned properly, doesn't leak, and sounds awesome </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes it is completely different. But it still does damage. Something like 15psi not being released isn't good. Which did happen to me on my 89 supra, luckily the pressure only cracked open a plastic connection.

 

Here is a fake Type RS BOV. http://www.prostreetonline.com...valve/

$89.99. I've had this BOV on my DSM, and it held fine for 19-20psi.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StolenTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yup go buy a 150 bov that work and function the same as a 30 bov, your just paying for the name in this case.

Based on actual personal experience, instead of what i read</TD></TR></TABLE>

Like I said above. It did happen to me. I guess you like wearing Payless shoes when you play basketball too. Does the same job right? I'll go ahead and stay with my Nike, after all i am paying for the name


Modified by TURBOOSTER at 7:33 PM 8/5/2006

 

mine stuck shut with me running about 26psi out of a pt67 and...didnt hurt anything on my motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid_Coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mine stuck shut with me running about 26psi out of a pt67 and...didnt hurt anything on my motor. </TD></TR></TABLE>

my point exactly