Well, I finally got my replacement engine in after months of waiting. I bought it from a seller that I hope no one else ever buys engines from them.... starts w/ a "F". Anyway, my motor has made very good power for a while now on the Dynapack at work. I've had the JDM H22A since 2000 and the bottom end is still stock; never been opened up for any work. Here's a recent dyno...

The setup is pretty simple:
Stock JDM block
Alaniz streetmaster port work
Jun cams, valvesprings, retainers, sprockets
Blacktrax IM
64mm OEM bored TB
Hytech header
3" Spugen piping w/ 3" Apex WS muffler
3" short ram intake
RC 440cc, Walboro 255lhp
Hondata S300
everything else is irrelevant....

Well, considering that the engine probably had 40k miles on it when I purchased it and I put another 100k on it, that's a lot of miles. So I decided to get a new motor. I'll be swapping out my motor and putting this JDM H23A Blue Top in pretty stock for now. I will be using my intake/header/IM/440cc's from the H22A, but will not be swapping the Alaniz+Jun head for about another 2 weeks or so. It's because I'm taking the head to Tom @ Portflow for a valvejob+resurface. I also need to check the retainers and see how much was taken off the head till now to see if I'm gonna use a OEM gasket or a Cometic 0.040" gasket. So after I do get the motor in I will dyno + tune it and let everyone know what this motor can do in relatively stock form, then I will swap my mildly built head onto it and see what I can gain. I am then gonna sell this H23A head afterwards (if anyone is interested please pass it on) It is a fairly clean head. I do have speculations on this motor, even though it's rated like a normal JDM H22A I feel there's more power in it. I think this because the other Blue Top; F20B w/ AT is rated at 180hp and the MT is 200hp, this engine is only available in AT and is rated at 200hp. I have a feeling the cams on this engine are gonna be real mild as most JDM AT engines are. Some interesting things about this engine is the intake manifold... its similar to other H22's but the IACV is a 3 wire and on the back like a Euro-R or Type R. And the top half of the manifold is somewhat different. Another very interesting thing is that this head is stamped PDE... I found this to be the same casting as Euro-R's or Type R's once again.




Block is stamped P5M

 

My dream engine

 

I got one of those and there is no comparrison in tq to a h22.

 

Nice, hard to find engines. 2000 Accord SiR Wagon

 

bump for the dyno

 

I had same that engine, it was in my eg civic but i sold it any way.

i never take it to the dyno (to expencive in my country ), but i got 13.64 @ 102.5 MPH, stock engine with 4-2-1 headers and 2.5" exhaust.

(i dnot know how to add imag from my PC)

 

Got the engine in over the weekend. Here's some pics...



The engine was swapped in and I reused my Blacktrax IM, 64mm TB, 3" SRI intake, Hytech header, and 3" Spugen piping to a 3" Apexi WS muffler. The difference between the 2 is that the H22A had an Alaniz streetmaster head, and JUN cams+valvetrain+cam sprockets. This engine is stock so I wasn't expecting much, but got very good results. This engine's potential looks very promising, and I'll be putting the head from the H22A and JUN cams onto this engine in a few weeks. I'll report the gains from those mods at that time. The YELLOW run is the H23A and the RED run is the H22A.

 

subscribed Its nice to see the motor i got out of my car


Modified by H23aEG at 12:01 AM 8/7/2006

 

yeah, my Euro-R has that exact same stamp on the head....interesting....take a look at the cams when you get them outa there. I wonder if they're the same as the Euro-R/Type-S ones...

 

Does the H23 use the Euro-R intake manifold? It doesn't look like the stnadard dual runner H22 manifold.

 

Now That's Torque, Volume 23

For the longest time I thought it was impossible to make over 200whp in an H on stock cams...I'm glad to see I was wrong.

 

what type of tensioner does this motor have: auto tensioner like reg. h22 or does this include the manual tensioner?

 

it has the auto-tensioner, but I swapped over my manual tensioner that I was running on the H22A

 

well fuc k me running, but is that 190ft/lbs of tq? and 221whp?

can someone clear up the bore/stroke of this motor vs:

1. the h22a
2. the k24a2.

 

why do people buy these motors whn you can build one. ive built 5 h23vtecs with oem usdm stuff. yes the jdm is a bit better but the money you save is worth it. now as far as torque goes these things are monsters, mine made 160 wheel torque before vtec even hit

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xDEFTONESx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well fuc k me running, but is that 190ft/lbs of tq? and 221whp?

can someone clear up the bore/stroke of this motor vs:

1. the h22a
2. the k24a2.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The H23 has 87mm bore and 95mm stroke.The H22's have 87mm bore and 90.7mm stroke.As for the K24a2 i dont know i dont do K.H ftw

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xDEFTONESx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well fuc k me running, but is that 190ft/lbs of tq? and 221whp?.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Its more like 200hp and around 160 tq.There using dynopack subtract about 20hp and you make up the difference

 

k24 have 100mm stroke. does that sound dirty?

 

k24 has 99mm stroke

 

Just curious what motor does this car come from and also how much does this set up cost?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM SLEEP3R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just curious what motor does this car come from and also how much does this set up cost? </TD></TR></TABLE>
The motor come out of a Japan Honda Accord Sir wagon.You can find these motors for around the same price as a h22.Ive found some for 2500 bucks.But the only problem is that these motors only come with a automatic tranny,so you would have to buy a prelude tranny or do the h2b conversion

 

Whats the compression of that h23?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AWOC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why do people buy these motors whn you can build one. ive built 5 h23vtecs with oem usdm stuff. yes the jdm is a bit better but the money you save is worth it. now as far as torque goes these things are monsters, mine made 160 wheel torque before vtec even hit </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm kinda with this guy. If you already had a good ported H22 setup & everything else in your car, why wouldn't you just build yourself a nice H23 short-block & swap that in?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by precord96 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Another very interesting thing is that this head is stamped PDE... I found this to be the same casting as Euro-R's or Type R's once again.</TD></TR></TABLE>

For what it's worth my 2001 H22A4's head is also stamped PDE/HF-1. So I'm not sure if they're "special".

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm kinda with this guy. If you already had a good ported H22 setup & everything else in your car, why wouldn't you just build yourself a nice H23 short-block & swap that in?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was going to build an H motor, but when I weighed the down time of putting it all together vs. just swapping an OEM motor in over a weekend it made more sense and was cheaper. The thought of building the H22 block was on my mind, but $800 to sleeve+ &gt;$500 for custom Arias 89mm pistons+$300 for rods+$200 for all OEM bearings= it came out to well over $2k with gaskets and everything else. I am not a very big fan of the the US H23A1. Plus my last H22A was really good to me, over 100k after I swapped it in and it was still making awesome power when I pulled it out. I tend to notice that built motors with forged pistons don't really like to last as long as an OEM Honda block. After I put a 100k on this engine, then I will build it. By that time I should have a beater, and this crank is a much nicer starting point than a H23A1 crank. I've always run on an OEM block and decided to stick with it. I hear of too many people with H23 bottom ends spinning bearings and such, this motor had a stock redline of 7300rpms so it makes it easy for me.

I started this post to help share info with fellow members, I don't really post much on H-T. I'm providing dyno sheets of changes and documenting them, there are plenty of built H22A's and H23 vtec (frankenstein) engines, this is a thread to help inform people out there on what a blue top H23A puts out. Last time I checked I couldn't find a dyno on one of these here on H-T. Anyway, thanks to all the supporters on H-T.