Hey guys whats up,

90 DA, JDM B16A swap from HMO

Well, I swapped my cluster out.
and I changed my Thermostat,
And did an Oil change (10W-30 synthetic)
New spark plugs and Wires

Just alittle tuneup

I then filled the rad. with coolant. and started the car,

Waiting for the Thermostat to open so I can finish putting coolant in,

Well after a couple mins my temp went past Hot. But The motor was still cold.

so I let it keep warming up, well it warmed up and the idle dropped.
Still nothing I don't think the thermostat opened,

well after awhile it started to bubble an I'm pretty sure the thermostat opened,
both hoses were hot and it slowly started lowering the level of coolant in the radiator, So I slowly started to add more and more coolant.

Well I went to school and came back (first day only an Hour)

And its really hot, I cant touch the head.

The fan came on once, but that's its.

I am wondering why its not cooling correctly,

Maybe there is a huge *** air pocket, but how do I get rid of that?

the thermostat and gasket is new, I installed it correctly,

Only current CEL code is 7 which is TPS

well, I could really use the help.

Thanks, Jose.

 

hows that head gasket...

 

Perfectly fine.

no smoke or anything.

I'm praying it didnt crack or anything.

trust me i know when it goes,
that happened to my last ls motor.
gasket, rebuilt it and then rings in cyl#3 went.

 

it wont always smoke...mine didnt smoke...it had a small leak...didnt show up until 3-4 days after the motor had been installed (i guess cause the motor sat for so long)...if you didnt replace the head gasket when you got the swap...its a likelyhood thats the issue

 

Well its been fine for the last few months,

I swapped it in around April.


Never got hot, even when I took it to the track out of state (TN has no 1/4)

 

alright then...just checking

 

oh, you might be right.

I'm just hoping its not, Becuase it has been fine since april.

But only time will tell.

guess thats an excuse to build the ls motor I have sitting here.
But thats not the excuse I was hoping for. ls/vtec be $$$

 

Did you turn the heat on when getting all the air pockets out of the cooling system?

 

hey bro, if your temp gauge is going crazy, and you're not overheadting, then you might need a new ect sensor. Its on the left side of the head underneath the distributor i believe.

EDIT: i re read your first post again, and it sounds like you didn't bleed the air out of the system after you topped off the coolant. either let it sit longer w/ the radiator cap off or bleed it by loosening up the bleeder screw.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ekay. jay &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you turn the heat on when getting all the air pockets out of the cooling system?</TD></TR></TABLE>


No I didnt

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hionvtecxda6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
EDIT: i re read your first post again, and it sounds like you didn't bleed the air out of the system after you topped off the coolant. either let it sit longer w/ the radiator cap off or bleed it by loosening up the bleeder screw.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok, where is the bleeder screw?

I let it sit for awhile, becuase I have done this before, and normally it will drop alot once the thermostat opens, and I just fill it up.

But where is the bleeder screw?
not the drain at the bottom of the rad.
Or is it the valve near the thermostat

 

I this it? Connected where the head and upper rad. hose meet.




And I'll try the heat thing also.

 

yeah thats the one

 

Ok with the engine off,

I took off the bleed screw, and un did the radiator cap, and coolent started pooring out.

So I'm thinking its not that.

When I filled it back up with coolent, I also took off the upper hose at radiator,
and filled coolent up thru there also. untill it was full. thought maybe it was a good Idea,

So its not the bleed screw, Unless I didnt test it or something right,
Guess I can try the heat with the car on.

 

Bump, I'm out of Ideas

 

id say you need to bleed the coolant. because i had a similar problem with my poormans ITR engine. it would warm up to operation temp...then it would shoot to ht because there was air trapped behind the thermostat in the water pipe and it wasnt allowing the thermostat to open. i cracked the bleeder valve and viola the problem was solved.

 

ok I guess I'll try that.

How much coolent did you allow out?

should I just let it flow out for alittle bit?

 

ok started it up, it idled down and I opened it up, no air or ntohing just coolent,
I let it flow out for alittle bit and I closed it.

bump

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jose-aka-Pedro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok I guess I'll try that.

How much coolent did you allow out?

should I just let it flow out for alittle bit?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i just let the air rush out until coolant started to flow. try running the car with the radiator cap off...that will bleed it too.

 

BUMP


turned the heater on, started the car let it run for a min with heat on,
tried the bleed screw again, still nothing.

wtf, i have the worst luck. everything that can happen does.


Edit: yeah I tried keeping the radiator cap off already, to "burp" it all out.

Guess I can try again

 

bump,

should I unbolt the top bolt to my thermostat and see if air comes out,

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jose-aka-Pedro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok with the engine off,

I took off the bleed screw, and un did the radiator cap, and coolent started pooring out.

So I'm thinking its not that.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

do it w/ the engine on

 

I already did that.

I started the car, with the rad cap off,

with the heat on

and I opened the bleed screw.

idk whats goin on, I guess I might take the thermostat out a thrid time
and drop it in some boiling water inside and see if it opens

Its a Failsafe Med temp Thermostat from autzone, I paid $18 for it.
at like 170-180 its supose to lock open to prevent overheating.

 

There is such thing as a faulty thermostat, even if it is brand new

 

Yeah, I'm going to remove it and put it some boiling water and see if it opens up or not,

[sarcasm]Yay My only wish was to do this all over a few more times! /sarcasm\


How much is a OEM Honda thermostat??

 

do the boiling water wit the thermo only other thing you can check really