doublethink project log [interior restoration tips & more]
Back from the dead! x2
Visit from the carbon fairy!

The Story:
Picked up this 1988 crx hf from "JDMrex94" here on honda-tech in pretty decent shape.
It had a nasty idle problem that was a shorted coolant temp sensor caused a jump from 800 rpm to like 2700 and then back down.
Sorted that. Got the freon recharded and have been enjoying 40+ MPG and cold a/c this summer so far, but all the while ive been doing little things to the car.
Basically there's three stages for this car, first is interior, then I'll do the body/exterior and finally drop the b16a in the car.
-------------------------------------------
STAGE ONE - INTERIOR
Since its a blue HF it has that horrible blue interior.
Lucky boosted chemist sold me the complete interior from his 1988 crx si. drove up to get it, but the shifter console wasnt looking too happy:
-------------------------------------------
So i decided to re-use my blue one since it was pretty much perfect physically, just the wrong color:
--------------------------------------------
This is a paint found at PepBoys. It's pretty much a perfect match for the black Honda used OEM. After many years the sun turns our plastic parts a slight green HUE. This allows you to do away with that if you wish.
****NOTE: There are two blacks in this line of paint, MATTE and GLOSSY. The GLOSSY cap is shiny, DO NOT GET this type. Stick to MATTE (dull cap) for a real OEM finish.
--------------------------------------------
Painting Tips:
1) Make very even storkes, at least 8-10 inches from the surface.
2) DO NOT SOAK THE SURFACE, this will hide the texture underneath and give UGLY drip marks.
3) DO NOT STOP OVER ANY ONE AREA, which will cause #2 to happen.
4) More coats is better then 1-2 really shitty ones. TRUST ME. I did 4 on this piece since i wanted no drip marks or flat spots.
--------------------------------------------
Finished product:
--------------------------------------------
Next up is my modified EK sedan armrest. The armrest from 1996-2000 sedan's is the perfect size for CRX's.
All I did was dremmel the front a bit to make it match the contour of the CRX shift console.
The ONLY THING about EK sedans is the interiors are always grey
So you remove the 2 philips head screws that hold the cloth top of the rest on, then clean with water, then spray:
--------------------------------------------
Then I put all the stuff in finally.

--------------------------------------------
UPDATE:
I am now the proud owner of these: (JDM CR-X EF6 "Style II" Seats
)



--------------------------------------------
STAGE TWO - EXTERIOR
3 hours of adjustment and its finally somewhat correct. I need a drop.





--------------------------------------------
STAGE THREE - ENGINE (soon.......)
--------------------------------------------
Thats it for now. More to come, thanks for looking.
.
.
.
Modified by doublethink at 7:38 PM 2/16/2007
Modified by doublethink at 8:26 PM 8/31/2007
Visit from the carbon fairy!


The Story:
Picked up this 1988 crx hf from "JDMrex94" here on honda-tech in pretty decent shape.
It had a nasty idle problem that was a shorted coolant temp sensor caused a jump from 800 rpm to like 2700 and then back down.
Sorted that. Got the freon recharded and have been enjoying 40+ MPG and cold a/c this summer so far, but all the while ive been doing little things to the car.
Basically there's three stages for this car, first is interior, then I'll do the body/exterior and finally drop the b16a in the car.
-------------------------------------------
STAGE ONE - INTERIOR
Since its a blue HF it has that horrible blue interior.
Lucky boosted chemist sold me the complete interior from his 1988 crx si. drove up to get it, but the shifter console wasnt looking too happy:
-------------------------------------------
So i decided to re-use my blue one since it was pretty much perfect physically, just the wrong color:
--------------------------------------------
This is a paint found at PepBoys. It's pretty much a perfect match for the black Honda used OEM. After many years the sun turns our plastic parts a slight green HUE. This allows you to do away with that if you wish.
****NOTE: There are two blacks in this line of paint, MATTE and GLOSSY. The GLOSSY cap is shiny, DO NOT GET this type. Stick to MATTE (dull cap) for a real OEM finish.
--------------------------------------------
Painting Tips:
1) Make very even storkes, at least 8-10 inches from the surface.
2) DO NOT SOAK THE SURFACE, this will hide the texture underneath and give UGLY drip marks.
3) DO NOT STOP OVER ANY ONE AREA, which will cause #2 to happen.
4) More coats is better then 1-2 really shitty ones. TRUST ME. I did 4 on this piece since i wanted no drip marks or flat spots.
--------------------------------------------
Finished product:
--------------------------------------------
Next up is my modified EK sedan armrest. The armrest from 1996-2000 sedan's is the perfect size for CRX's.
All I did was dremmel the front a bit to make it match the contour of the CRX shift console.
The ONLY THING about EK sedans is the interiors are always grey
So you remove the 2 philips head screws that hold the cloth top of the rest on, then clean with water, then spray:
--------------------------------------------
Then I put all the stuff in finally.

--------------------------------------------
UPDATE:
I am now the proud owner of these: (JDM CR-X EF6 "Style II" Seats
)


--------------------------------------------
STAGE TWO - EXTERIOR
3 hours of adjustment and its finally somewhat correct. I need a drop.






--------------------------------------------
STAGE THREE - ENGINE (soon.......)
--------------------------------------------
Thats it for now. More to come, thanks for looking.
.
.
.
Modified by doublethink at 7:38 PM 2/16/2007
Modified by doublethink at 8:26 PM 8/31/2007
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.speaker »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">More !! I like seeing these project threads </TD></TR></TABLE>
To Mr. Speaker
To Mr. Speaker
Yeah dude let us know how you mounted that center console and post up a picture of your car from the side becuase I just bought some HX rims and want to see what my car is going to look like with them.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr_CRX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Armrest looks awesome! Got any more pics of how you mounted it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b.d.racing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah dude let us know how you mounted that center console and post up a picture of your car from the side becuase I just bought some HX rims and want to see what my car is going to look like with them. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Those arent HX rims. They are a usdm rim package of EK's I believe. 15 inch 5 spoke matte silver.
Mounting of the arm rest you use the two existing holes in the floorboard of the car that hold on the factory ebrake cover.
Take the two gold screws to Home Depot, go to the screw isle, look under metric. They have a board there with all female openings so you can find the threading.
Basically you need the same threading as oem, but much longer screws then the 2 stock gold ones.
once you have screws with the same threading, but longer, inside the car you measure how far the holes are from the shift console, then measure how far apart they are from each other.
Then you make the measurements on your armrest, drill the two holes.
I have plastic screw cap covers that you can find at any auto parts store. They are in the isle with stuff to mount a license plate. Thats why you see two black caps there instead of screw tops.
Thats pretty much it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b.d.racing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah dude let us know how you mounted that center console and post up a picture of your car from the side becuase I just bought some HX rims and want to see what my car is going to look like with them. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Those arent HX rims. They are a usdm rim package of EK's I believe. 15 inch 5 spoke matte silver.
Mounting of the arm rest you use the two existing holes in the floorboard of the car that hold on the factory ebrake cover.
Take the two gold screws to Home Depot, go to the screw isle, look under metric. They have a board there with all female openings so you can find the threading.
Basically you need the same threading as oem, but much longer screws then the 2 stock gold ones.
once you have screws with the same threading, but longer, inside the car you measure how far the holes are from the shift console, then measure how far apart they are from each other.
Then you make the measurements on your armrest, drill the two holes.
I have plastic screw cap covers that you can find at any auto parts store. They are in the isle with stuff to mount a license plate. Thats why you see two black caps there instead of screw tops.
Thats pretty much it.
i have the same armrest but haven't mounted it yet, so thanks for the idea. have you mounted the back of it and if not, does it stay in place firmly?
BTW: nice soldering iron
BTW: nice soldering iron
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RasmusRic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have the same armrest but haven't mounted it yet, so thanks for the idea. have you mounted the back of it and if not, does it stay in place firmly?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
those two screws into the factory threading hold it VERY firm.
No back attachment is needed. Good question tho.
heres better pics:
Modified by doublethink at 8:27 PM 8/31/2007
</TD></TR></TABLE>
those two screws into the factory threading hold it VERY firm.
No back attachment is needed. Good question tho.
heres better pics:
Modified by doublethink at 8:27 PM 8/31/2007
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RasmusRic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BTW: nice soldering iron
</TD></TR></TABLE>
OK i admit it. im bored.
Modified by doublethink at 8:28 PM 8/31/2007
</TD></TR></TABLE>OK i admit it. im bored.
Modified by doublethink at 8:28 PM 8/31/2007
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xDEFTONESx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">by teh way. the multimeter is a fluke 77bn. i have about 12 of em. military issue babeh
they can handle iraq so theyll stand up for ya
</TD></TR></TABLE>
of all the tools i own, its the one im most proud of and use most often.
it really takes a beating. my ONLY problem with it was its a little on the expensive side, but hey, you get what you pay for.
they can handle iraq so theyll stand up for ya
</TD></TR></TABLE>of all the tools i own, its the one im most proud of and use most often.
it really takes a beating. my ONLY problem with it was its a little on the expensive side, but hey, you get what you pay for.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doublethink »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
of all the tools i own, its the one im most proud of and use most often.
it really takes a beating. my ONLY problem with it was its a little on the expensive side, but hey, you get what you pay for.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i like how the continuity test has a speaker so you dont even have to look at the thing. those things are a life saver in my line.
of all the tools i own, its the one im most proud of and use most often.
it really takes a beating. my ONLY problem with it was its a little on the expensive side, but hey, you get what you pay for.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i like how the continuity test has a speaker so you dont even have to look at the thing. those things are a life saver in my line.


