509whp/387tq stock h23 bottom end, stock h22 top end
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From: east coast, nc, us
509whp/387tq stock h23 bottom end, stock h22 top end
a couple weeks ago i put my stock h23 vtec on the dyno. completely stock h23 bottom end and completely stock h22 head (including intake manifold, tb, etc.). i ended up putting down 460whp/315tq on pump gas. it kicked a rod out on the next pass 
i really didn't want to make that much power on pump gas, but i have a shitty drag manifold and we couldn't get boost under 19 psi b/c of the shitty wg placement. it put down 430whp on the first pull running in the low 10's afr. i wanted to lean it out just a hair so it was about 11 flat afr, and that's when it kept picking up power and kicked a rod (every single piston, ring, bearing, everything was completely mint when we tore the motor down, except for the snapped rod). i had a spare h23 block at the machine shop for an all motor project i abandoned a while ago, so i picked that up and rebuilt it with stock USED pistons, rods, and new rings rings. i did use a balanced crank with the rebuild and acl bearings, so i'm sure some haters will say 'that doesn't count as stock'. went back to the dyno and tuned it to 410whp/300tq on pump gas. the put in some 114 and pulled 509whp/387tq out of it. i'm sure i could have tuned more power out of it even at the same boost level, but we weren't able to get any more clean runs after that due to ignition break up (very old cap and rotor). i replaced the cap and rotor after we left the dyno and everything was good to go. went out to the track and ran a best of 11.5 @ 128 with a 1.87 60' and short shifting 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th b/c i missed gears on my other runs and was kind of paranoid i was going to miss a gear again 
with more seat time in the car, i'm pretty sure i can get it in to the 10's, which isn't too bad for a stock motor and at least 2700lb without driver car. pics.....
the ignition signal was weak due to my bad cap and rotor, but it actually didn't break up on this run, the pickup just didn't get a signal for a second
<FONT COLOR="green">*for those of you that wanted to see the dyno graph with rpm's, the paper was folded in half when i took the pic, it was late and i didn't even think about it. i photoshopped the rpm's on there real quick for you to see and get a better idea*</FONT>
as you can see by my traps and shitty short times, there's a lot of room for improvement with more seat time. neither one of these runs was clean. the first run, i missed 4th b/c the slicks were spinning over at the top of 3rd causing me to over rev and not want to go in to gear, the second run i short shifted to be more careful not to miss a gear and fell out of boost bad. also noticed i had a boost leak when i got back to the shop, my cc line had come off the im. i was more pissed that i didn't have cc for the ride home than i was knowing that i had a boost leak at the track
here's the set up.....
car:
-00 si, fully loaded, full interior, no weight reduction (other than no a/c, p/s), offset that by the extra weight of an h series and turbo kit, and i'm sure it's over stock weight
motor/turbo:
-completely stock h22 top end (im, tb, cams, etc.)
-arp head studs
-completely stock h23 bottom end (except for balanced crank and acl bearings)
-m2b4 lsd tranny
-tired *** clutch specialties 6 puck unsprung and 12lb flywheel
-gay *** drag manifold
-tial 38mm wg
-h.o. t3/t67
-precision 750hp intercooler
-2" ic piping from turbo, steps up to 2.5" then to 2.75" before the intercooler
-2.25" ic piping from ic to intake
-rc 1000cc injectors (all stock lines, fpr)
-crome pro tuned by me
-full race traction bars
-old *** agx shocks and generic coilovers
i think i can pick up A LOT of power just by doing simple things like getting a better manifold, bigger charge piping, better im, bigger tb, etc. i have a euro r im, and bdl 70mm tb, so i may redo my ic piping and throw that stuff on and see what i can put down. unfortunately everyone has a hell of a wait right now for a good manifold, so it may be a while before i upgrade that. oh yeah, i have a fully built/sleeved h22 set up pretty much ready to drop in also and was only looking for 700whp out of that. if i can hit over 500 on a stock motor, i know 700 won't be a problem now with the built motor
Modified by therealPROJEKTEG at 5:49 AM 7/25/2006
Modified by therealPROJEKTEG at 5:50 AM 7/25/2006
Modified by therealPROJEKTEG at 6:21 AM 7/25/2006
Modified by therealPROJEKTEG at 6:44 AM 7/26/2006
i really didn't want to make that much power on pump gas, but i have a shitty drag manifold and we couldn't get boost under 19 psi b/c of the shitty wg placement. it put down 430whp on the first pull running in the low 10's afr. i wanted to lean it out just a hair so it was about 11 flat afr, and that's when it kept picking up power and kicked a rod (every single piston, ring, bearing, everything was completely mint when we tore the motor down, except for the snapped rod). i had a spare h23 block at the machine shop for an all motor project i abandoned a while ago, so i picked that up and rebuilt it with stock USED pistons, rods, and new rings rings. i did use a balanced crank with the rebuild and acl bearings, so i'm sure some haters will say 'that doesn't count as stock'. went back to the dyno and tuned it to 410whp/300tq on pump gas. the put in some 114 and pulled 509whp/387tq out of it. i'm sure i could have tuned more power out of it even at the same boost level, but we weren't able to get any more clean runs after that due to ignition break up (very old cap and rotor). i replaced the cap and rotor after we left the dyno and everything was good to go. went out to the track and ran a best of 11.5 @ 128 with a 1.87 60' and short shifting 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th b/c i missed gears on my other runs and was kind of paranoid i was going to miss a gear again with more seat time in the car, i'm pretty sure i can get it in to the 10's, which isn't too bad for a stock motor and at least 2700lb without driver car. pics..... the ignition signal was weak due to my bad cap and rotor, but it actually didn't break up on this run, the pickup just didn't get a signal for a second
<FONT COLOR="green">*for those of you that wanted to see the dyno graph with rpm's, the paper was folded in half when i took the pic, it was late and i didn't even think about it. i photoshopped the rpm's on there real quick for you to see and get a better idea*</FONT>
as you can see by my traps and shitty short times, there's a lot of room for improvement with more seat time. neither one of these runs was clean. the first run, i missed 4th b/c the slicks were spinning over at the top of 3rd causing me to over rev and not want to go in to gear, the second run i short shifted to be more careful not to miss a gear and fell out of boost bad. also noticed i had a boost leak when i got back to the shop, my cc line had come off the im. i was more pissed that i didn't have cc for the ride home than i was knowing that i had a boost leak at the track
here's the set up.....
car:
-00 si, fully loaded, full interior, no weight reduction (other than no a/c, p/s), offset that by the extra weight of an h series and turbo kit, and i'm sure it's over stock weight
motor/turbo:
-completely stock h22 top end (im, tb, cams, etc.)
-arp head studs
-completely stock h23 bottom end (except for balanced crank and acl bearings)
-m2b4 lsd tranny
-tired *** clutch specialties 6 puck unsprung and 12lb flywheel
-gay *** drag manifold
-tial 38mm wg
-h.o. t3/t67
-precision 750hp intercooler
-2" ic piping from turbo, steps up to 2.5" then to 2.75" before the intercooler
-2.25" ic piping from ic to intake
-rc 1000cc injectors (all stock lines, fpr)
-crome pro tuned by me
-full race traction bars
-old *** agx shocks and generic coilovers
i think i can pick up A LOT of power just by doing simple things like getting a better manifold, bigger charge piping, better im, bigger tb, etc. i have a euro r im, and bdl 70mm tb, so i may redo my ic piping and throw that stuff on and see what i can put down. unfortunately everyone has a hell of a wait right now for a good manifold, so it may be a while before i upgrade that. oh yeah, i have a fully built/sleeved h22 set up pretty much ready to drop in also and was only looking for 700whp out of that. if i can hit over 500 on a stock motor, i know 700 won't be a problem now with the built motor
Modified by therealPROJEKTEG at 5:49 AM 7/25/2006
Modified by therealPROJEKTEG at 5:50 AM 7/25/2006
Modified by therealPROJEKTEG at 6:21 AM 7/25/2006
Modified by therealPROJEKTEG at 6:44 AM 7/26/2006
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Thread Starter
B A N N E D
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From: east coast, nc, us
Re: (prelittlelude)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelittlelude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">like i said befor esick numbers for a stocker, make sure to post this in the prelude forum. </TD></TR></TABLE>
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1699695
</TD></TR></TABLE>https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1699695
Thread Starter
B A N N E D
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From: east coast, nc, us
Re: (boostedej1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedej1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice powerband! </TD></TR></TABLE>
lol, you being sarcastic? i don't really like the powerband too much, but i'm working with a drag manifold, i'll take what i can get, lol. i've got 2500 rpms of power over 400, but only 500 rpm's over 500
i'll take some pics of the set up tonight
</TD></TR></TABLE>lol, you being sarcastic? i don't really like the powerband too much, but i'm working with a drag manifold, i'll take what i can get, lol. i've got 2500 rpms of power over 400, but only 500 rpm's over 500
i'll take some pics of the set up tonight
sh!t happens.
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 7,734
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From: greenVILLE, SC
Re: 509whp/387tq stock h23 bottom end, stock h22 top end (therealPROJEKTEG)
Nice numbers man. I have a buddy that has a h22 swap in his 95 coupe. What manifold do you plan on upgrading to?
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From: 951/909, CA, usa
Re: 509whp/387tq stock h23 bottom end, stock h22 top end (therealPROJEKTEG)
hey man im really glad that you posted this, 
because in an earlier thread in here, i wrote about my friend that made 500whp on a stock H22 motor. but he had a bigger turbo than you and a longer powerband (im guessing since you used the stock H23 bottom vs. the more rev-friendly H22 stock bottom). i didnt have the dynographs to post, since it wasnt my car, but still some ******** idoit calls bullshit. But this by far proves again and again what a stock Honda motor can do!
btw, was it the h23 crank that you balanced out and used for these setups? i have heard of such things as crankshaft breakage when using the h23 crank, have you ever expereinced anything like that?? im asking because im use to building strictly h22 motors but im interested in playing with some h23's. i've just been scared to use one because of there weaker crankshafts, but you number are very impressive and are making me think about reconsidering.
good job
because in an earlier thread in here, i wrote about my friend that made 500whp on a stock H22 motor. but he had a bigger turbo than you and a longer powerband (im guessing since you used the stock H23 bottom vs. the more rev-friendly H22 stock bottom). i didnt have the dynographs to post, since it wasnt my car, but still some ******** idoit calls bullshit. But this by far proves again and again what a stock Honda motor can do!
btw, was it the h23 crank that you balanced out and used for these setups? i have heard of such things as crankshaft breakage when using the h23 crank, have you ever expereinced anything like that?? im asking because im use to building strictly h22 motors but im interested in playing with some h23's. i've just been scared to use one because of there weaker crankshafts, but you number are very impressive and are making me think about reconsidering.
good job
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: east coast, nc, us
Re: (quik sol)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G"UNIT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice numbers man. I have a buddy that has a h22 swap in his 95 coupe. What manifold do you plan on upgrading to?</TD></TR></TABLE>
well, since there's like at least a 2 month wait from just about everyone i've seen on an h22 top mount, i'm having a custom top mount made locally. hopefully will be done within 2 weeks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo O »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey man im really glad that you posted this,
because in an earlier thread in here, i wrote about my friend that made 500whp on a stock H22 motor. but he had a bigger turbo than you and a longer powerband (im guessing since you used the stock H23 bottom vs. the more rev-friendly H22 stock bottom). i didnt have the dynographs to post, since it wasnt my car, but still some ******** idoit calls bullshit. But this by far proves again and again what a stock Honda motor can do!
btw, was it the h23 crank that you balanced out and used for these setups? i have heard of such things as crankshaft breakage when using the h23 crank, have you ever expereinced anything like that?? im asking because im use to building strictly h22 motors but im interested in playing with some h23's. i've just been scared to use one because of there weaker crankshafts, but you number are very impressive and are making me think about reconsidering.
good job </TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah man, i saw that thread a while ago. i think it was a miscommunication in that thread. from what i gathered, everyone thought you were claiming that you put down that much power on pump gas, and that's what they were calling bs on. as far as the crank, yes, i have the balanced h23 crank in this set up. as far as my powerband not being all that great, you have to remember, i'm using a pos drag manifold that is in no way designed for so much power and to flow so much air, i'm pretty sure that's why my power comes in so late. i honestly have only been messing with h series for about 6 months, and am not 100% sure on the difference of the crank (other than the obvious). as far as i know, they're the same exact thing as an h22 crank, just with a longer throw, and not balanced as well from the factory. i see no reason at all why a properly balanced h23 crank can't be revved as high as an h22 crank. i've only seen one instance of a broken h23 crank that i can recall, and i believe it was use '2point6' on here. if it's gonna break, then i guess i'll only be using it until it breaks
well, since there's like at least a 2 month wait from just about everyone i've seen on an h22 top mount, i'm having a custom top mount made locally. hopefully will be done within 2 weeks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo O »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey man im really glad that you posted this,
because in an earlier thread in here, i wrote about my friend that made 500whp on a stock H22 motor. but he had a bigger turbo than you and a longer powerband (im guessing since you used the stock H23 bottom vs. the more rev-friendly H22 stock bottom). i didnt have the dynographs to post, since it wasnt my car, but still some ******** idoit calls bullshit. But this by far proves again and again what a stock Honda motor can do!
btw, was it the h23 crank that you balanced out and used for these setups? i have heard of such things as crankshaft breakage when using the h23 crank, have you ever expereinced anything like that?? im asking because im use to building strictly h22 motors but im interested in playing with some h23's. i've just been scared to use one because of there weaker crankshafts, but you number are very impressive and are making me think about reconsidering.
good job </TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah man, i saw that thread a while ago. i think it was a miscommunication in that thread. from what i gathered, everyone thought you were claiming that you put down that much power on pump gas, and that's what they were calling bs on. as far as the crank, yes, i have the balanced h23 crank in this set up. as far as my powerband not being all that great, you have to remember, i'm using a pos drag manifold that is in no way designed for so much power and to flow so much air, i'm pretty sure that's why my power comes in so late. i honestly have only been messing with h series for about 6 months, and am not 100% sure on the difference of the crank (other than the obvious). as far as i know, they're the same exact thing as an h22 crank, just with a longer throw, and not balanced as well from the factory. i see no reason at all why a properly balanced h23 crank can't be revved as high as an h22 crank. i've only seen one instance of a broken h23 crank that i can recall, and i believe it was use '2point6' on here. if it's gonna break, then i guess i'll only be using it until it breaks
Thread Starter
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Re: (therealPROJEKTEG)
i photoshopped the rpm range on the graph for you guys wanting to see. it was late when i snapped the pics and i wasn't even thinking that the rpms weren't on there b/c it was folded.
Thread Starter
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Re: (boostedej1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedej1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice chop </TD></TR></TABLE>
it's jdm yo
</TD></TR></TABLE>it's jdm yo
Thread Starter
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Re: (freakyty2.3)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by freakyty2.3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Hey man I don't know if your getting my PM's or not but I need a tracking number. </TD></TR></TABLE>
just pm'd ya
just pm'd ya