I am thinking about building my H22 bottom end, my concern is I only have about 1000 to spend.

Anyway to build it for only 1k? pistons, rods, rings etc?

I would save the head for later!


Modified by MadCityLude at 11:58 AM 7/13/2006

 

Unless you start robbing people at gunpoint, I don't think so. Maybe others can shed more light on this.

 

I found this site! prices look pretty good! what do you all think?

http://www.autoraceparts.com/

 

basically if you want to do it right.....

nope.

when you say engine work + small budget, not worth it.

you might want to try cams for some power, but then that involves cost of tuning / a good ecu program to make the most out of it. tuning could cost you 3/4ths of your budget alone.

so basically, wait.

 

so what do you think minimum cost I should expect to build just the bottom end! I going NA and never expecting it to handle more than 300HP at the wheels


Modified by MadCityLude at 12:00 PM 7/13/2006

 

i'd say 3 or 4 grand, machine work ain't cheap

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MadCityLude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so what do you think minimum cost I should expect to build just the bottom end! I going NA and never expecting to run more than 300HP at the wheels</TD></TR></TABLE>

not gonna happen......unless your throwing lots of nitrous in the mix.........but hey a 1000 will cover that wayeasy...make realistic goals then you ahve realistic questions...just my 3 cents

 

you will be hard pressed to build a bottom end with only 1000, but if you're looking for a little extra power you could get some type-s pistons, mill the head slightly if you want a little extra, if you have a 97+ you can shot peen the factory rods and get some decent cams, get a P28 and run uberdata or crome and thats probably your best bet for under a 1000, and I think pretty much everyone will agree you're not going to make anywhere close to 300hp, you also might want to shoot for something more realistic, like 190whp?

 

NO, I never expected to make 300whp. I was saying that I only plan to build the block to withstand 300whp daily.


Modified by MadCityLude at 12:01 PM 7/13/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MadCityLude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">NO, I never expected to make 300whp. At l;east not untill I started working on the top end. I was saying that I only plan to build the block to withstand 300whp daily.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If its a struggle to scrape $1000 together, why bother trying to build a bottom end that will withstand 300hp it will never see. Its like throwing money away. If you are "going NA" (isn't it already)you need to set aside more money than than that. I suggest following the advice of another post and getting some cams and a tune.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MadCityLude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">NO, I never expected to make 300whp. At l;east not untill I started working on the top end. I was saying that I only plan to build the block to withstand 300whp daily.</TD></TR></TABLE>

- No, i dont think you understand hes saying with a **** ton of money you aren't going to hit that N/A.. ever... most N/A built motors with itbs throw down 260-270 i dont think ive seen anything over that on this forum..

- what it is really telling everyone that reads the OP is that you have a dream, a very unrealistic, unresearched, and uneducated dream that will die with your budget. I mean **** you barely can get a top of the line custom header for 1k.. This is not NFS so **** cost real money and to get quality work done it costs more.. you cant spend pennies and expect big numbers it just dont work that way.

 

Just the sleeves and installation will cost over a grand.

You need around 5K total for a run of the mill turbo setup with a built bottom end.

 

So I can just install a H23 crank and type S pistons and never have to worry about sleeving? Is this true?

I am going to do headwork at a later date - THIS FALL or WINTER

Planning to do all new valves, springs, retainers, and cams!

I was also thinking of using a thinner head gasket to raise comp slightly more!


Modified by MadCityLude at 12:02 PM 7/13/2006

 

who said anything about h23 crank? as far as sleeving goes, if you run type S pistons you won't need to resleeve. you won't even need to resleeve supposedly with the mahle gold series pistons, but there hasn't been enough empirical data and feedback from those to win h tuners over. so it's a shot in the dark.

 

You are right though I have never really researched NA at all. I always planned to turbo! I just recently decided to stick with NA for reliabily reasons.

I really don't wast to deal with the maintance-reliability issues associated with turbo! If I was gonna turbo I would sell my H22 and go back to F22

 

How much of the labor/assembly/dis-assembly can you do yourself.

IMO, it is most important to get the block sleeved. I personally recommend Bensons sleeves.

http://laskeyracing.com/shop/sleeving.htm

Having the bottom end sleeved will allow you to run forged pistons or even go turbo later.

A set of CP pistons or Wiseco will be about 550. Then you have rods.

If you really want to build your motor, make out a plan, ask as many questions as you need to. Take the $ you have now and open a Citibank e savings account and earn 5% while you get everything together.

Good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soundbomber &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">who said anything about h23 crank? as far as sleeving goes, if you run type S pistons you won't need to resleeve. you won't even need to resleeve supposedly with the mahle gold series pistons, but there hasn't been enough empirical data and feedback from those to win h tuners over. so it's a shot in the dark.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have an H23 crank I was thinking I could use!


Modified by MadCityLude at 12:10 PM 7/13/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How much of the labor/assembly/dis-assembly can you do yourself.

IMO, it is most important to get the block sleeved. I personally recommend Bensons sleeves.

http://laskeyracing.com/shop/sleeving.htm

Having the bottom end sleeved will allow you to run forged pistons or even go turbo later.

A set of CP pistons or Wiseco will be about 550. Then you have rods.

If you really want to build your motor, make out a plan, ask as many questions as you need to. Take the $ you have now and open a Citibank e savings account and earn 5% while you get everything together.

Good luck </TD></TR></TABLE>

I am planning to do everyhting myself! Except of course the machine work!

I thought sleeving was a good idea too, but everyone has been saying unless I have a ton more cash don't bother!

I am getting a little confused now!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MadCityLude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I found this site! prices look pretty good! what do you all think?

http://www.autoraceparts.com/</TD></TR></TABLE>

The fact that their logo is out of focus is enough to tell you they're garbage. If your going NA why waste your time sleeving? Unless you plan on running a big shot of nitrous there are ways around having to sleeve if you just want to up compression. Flat valves, thinner headgasket etc. etc. will let you increase compression. If you want to do it with the pistons then there are even pistons that can be used in conjuction with the stock FRM sleeves such as JUN and Mahle Gold. You *really* (and i say that somewhat hesitantly) don't need to sleeve if you plan on going NA. Just my .02 cents

 

i think you are confused and need to sit back, do some reading and learn about the things you are wanting to put in your engine before you blow something up. Just my .02 cents.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think you are confused and need to sit back, do some reading and learn about the things you are wanting to put in your engine before you blow something up. Just my .02 cents.</TD></TR></TABLE>


x2 you need some hard research time.. during that time it would give you time to save money cause a true NA build costs bank.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MadCityLude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I going NA and never expecting to run more than 300HP at the wheels</TD></TR></TABLE>

I dunno...$1000 buys a hell of a lot of NAWZ...

If you remove your exhaust system from the cat-back, remove your intake assembly entirely, remove your hood, and spray a 150-shot...you could theoretically get 300whp for about 2 seconds. Then it'll go *pop*

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chuckles99SH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


x2 you need some hard research time.. during that time it would give you time to save money cause a true NA build costs bank.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am not ever going to spend 10k on my motor build, if that is what you are trying to get at!

I am trying to do a LOWER budget build, that will be reliable and still make some decent power! But I do not want to go Turbo.

I seriously think I can do this for about $1200 in the bottom end and another 1200 in the head! I am figuring these numbers based on the parts I still need. Not what I already have!

 

you should talk to pocketrocket racing, he does some pretty good work for a good price. at least when you get around to working the head.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soundbomber &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you should talk to pocketrocket racing, he does some pretty good work for a good price. at least when you get around to working the head.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Will do!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The_Sober &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I dunno...$1000 buys a hell of a lot of NAWZ...

If you remove your exhaust system from the cat-back, remove your intake assembly entirely, remove your hood, and spray a 150-shot...you could theoretically get 300whp for about 2 seconds. Then it'll go *pop*</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't plan on actually ever hitting 300whp, all I know from the research I have done is that the stock internals can only handle up to around 250 and I want to bump that number just a little. I think you all are misunderstanding me a little!