I have a full set of 5zigen fn01r 15's with a +42mm offset. I'd like to get 4 pistons calipers up front and possibly bigger rotors. I've done some research but didn't find any real answers. I prefer to use wilwood calipers. Any of you guys running 15's?

 

i run itr caliper on integra 4x100 knukles and they fit a 15 perfect

 

I guess I don't fully understand what to use. Here's some background info:

I want to track the car 2-3 times out of the year. I want to go fast and provide the stopping power for it. Is a 4 piston caliper going to be overkill for me? What can I do to better my stopping power in terms of what can I interchange from other cars. In your case stn_pat, you've used parts from a teg. I have a 97 civic. Which car would you recommend that I swap parts with and what parts?

 

Wilwood, Fastbrakes and Brakeman all make kits for that car with 15" wheels. There are quite a few others, too. Finding a kit to fit under 14s is the tricky one.

Nevertheless, I'd say spend your money on track time, good brake PADS, and tires before you go off getting a BIG-*** BRAKE KIT you may not even need.

If you have never run REAL track pads on on your car and on the track before, you should. Its quite an eye opener. Any of the following will change your life...

Porterfield R4
Hawk Blue
Cobalt Spec B

 

what kinda of motor are you running?

if its a d or b series that is mostly stock, thend o what thawely said and just get good pads SS lines and good fluid.


if you running a farely modified motor, get the brakes from the 99-00 civic SI. You will probably need the whole front assembly (up right and all) but i know little about the EK chassi.


edit:

i wouldn't throw on a pad like the Spec B if you are a newb on the track, its braking power from cold to hot, is a large difference. Start out with a Cobalt GT sport

 

fastbrakes.com have a 11" rotor w/wilwood 4 pot caliper kit. That's what i'm using. The kit required 45mm offset rims. So, if you do decide to use this setup. You'll have run 3mm wheel spacer.

 

Hello Kaiba,

I think you better rethink your offset and spacer info!

Because if he ran a 3mm spacer, which he doesn't need his offset would be 39mm.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kaiba &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">fastbrakes.com have a 11" rotor w/wilwood 4 pot caliper kit. That's what i'm using. The kit required 45mm offset rims. So, if you do decide to use this setup. You'll have run 3mm wheel spacer.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That depends on the wheels. I run team dynamics wheels with a Fastbrakes kit and have no problems at all. Once when I borrowed some Axis wheels from a friend there was a little interference between the spokes and caliper. Two minutes with an air sander to the caliper, and everything was honky-dory...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DB2-R81 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hello Kaiba,

I think you better rethink your offset and spacer info!

Because if he ran a 3mm spacer, which he doesn't need his offset would be 39mm.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zerovandez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a full set of 5zigen fn01r 15's with a +42mm offset.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know that my rim are 40mm offset. And i had to run 5mm to clear the caliper. Beside fastbrakes.com told me you need 45mm offset rims.

Therefore 42mm + 3mm = 45mm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kaiba &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I know that my rim are 40mm offset. And i had to run 5mm to clear the caliper. Beside fastbrakes.com told me you need 45mm offset rims.

Therefore 42mm + 3mm = 45mm</TD></TR></TABLE>

your math is wrong. the end result with 3mm spacers will be 39mm offset.


Modified by Andrie Hartanto at 10:36 AM 6/29/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Andrie Hartanto &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your math is wrong. the end result with 3mm spacers will be 49mm offset.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't get. Please explain.

 

I mistyped. I corrected my post. Re-check

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kaiba &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't get. Please explain. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Adding a spacer between the hub and rim will decrease the offset. Besides, brake fitment isn't just an offset issue. It's a combination of offset and spoke design. I'm sure there's some 0 and negative offset rims that won't fit over certain brakes because the spokes are flat.

 

thanks for the reply guys. I'm building a b18b turbo doing 300whp at the most. Someone validate my setup:

integra front knuckles w/discs. and type r calipers as the guy said earlier. this would be sufficient enuf right?

 

my fn01r's have good clearance. no issues w/ my fastbrakes kit at all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zerovandez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the reply guys. I'm building a b18b turbo doing 300whp at the most. Someone validate my setup:

integra front knuckles w/discs. and type r calipers as the guy said earlier. this would be sufficient enuf right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You won't need brakes. You'll blow the mother up on the first lap

Here's what turbo hondas do to brakes (ITR calipers/rotors, Cobalt Friction Spec VR which are my favorite pads thus far..)



If you stick with something stock-ish sized, and 300 whp, you will absolutely need racing brake fluid (Motul etc.), racing brake pads, and spare rotors (autozone is fine).

I would recommend nothing less than a full-on racing pad. Porterfield R4, Carbotech XP10, Cobalt Friction if available, Hawk, etc. Use a dedicated rotor for the track, and bedding in will be easier when swapping back and forth.

p.s. don't do it! But, that's an entirely different thread.

 

[QUOTE=Chris F]

QUOTE]

Holy mother f*****cking sh*****t

 

whoa man...just whoa. So you say don't do it. Are you referring to not going with the stock setup? How about stock everything from a teg and race pads? Or, how bout teg parts and 4 piston calipers by wilwood (that's what I really want to do).

Just confused on how the installation actually goes....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zerovandez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whoa man...just whoa. So you say don't do it. Are you referring to not going with the stock setup?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think he's saying don't do the 300whp turbo setup for a road race/autox car. But I'm not sure. :shrugs:

 

Yeah, he's saying don't turbo the motor. I concur, as will almost everyone here. NSX calipers will help with that situation Chris is having a little bit (banana-shaped pads are due in large part to the single piston ITR caliper design, whereas the NSX has a two-piston caliper, so more even pad wear). He's right about lots of power cooking your brakes though. You reach some pretty high speeds at the end of the straights, and that means lots of heavy braking. You'd be much better off sticking with a stockish LS (non-turbo) and stock Integra brakes to begin. Develop your skill with that, then later on move onto a faster setup if you want.

Starting out with 300hp would be a nightmare though, not to mention the headaches of sorting out a turbo'd track car. Once again, we STRONGLY advise you to pass on the turbo idea for now. Not saying it can't be done, just that it's a bad idea for your current position.

And if you decide to do the turbo anyway, DO NOT use stock Integra stuff, that just won't be good enough. ITR calipers at a bare minimum.

 

Here is my suggestion... BTW: I'm running the exact same wheels.

2 pc. 11" directional vented rotors from Fastbrakes with ITR calipers.
These rotors ar 1" thick and very heavy duty.
Mine are on race weekend #7..

 

I will also throw in here that learning to road race with turbo lag will only add to your headaches.

Horsepower is sexy, but like most pretty girls, it is not worth the trouble on your honda. Prioritize reliability when building your first road race car. You will be SO much happier.

Also, ask all the honda road racers here how much power their cars put down. Then then watch some of their in-car(edomoto has some great ones). Until you know how to squeeze speed out of a 135hp motor, there is no point in wasting your money on engines when you could buy more track days. Do yourself and your wallet a favor, ditch the turbo. You'll have more fun, I garauntee it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gotocrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I will also throw in here that learning to road race with turbo lag will only add to your headaches.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I disagree if hes going with 300whp tops his turbo will be so small it wont even be a downside.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sscguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, he's saying don't turbo the motor. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You all know me too well

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sscguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Starting out with 300hp would be a nightmare though, not to mention the headaches of sorting out a turbo'd track car. Once again, we STRONGLY advise you to pass on the turbo idea for now. Not saying it can't be done, just that it's a bad idea for your current position.

And if you decide to do the turbo anyway, DO NOT use stock Integra stuff, that just won't be good enough. ITR calipers at a bare minimum.</TD></TR></TABLE>
^^ Agreed on both counts. I would call my brakes "absolute bare minimum" for a 300 WHP application. Still, plunking down $150 for a set of brake pads every 3 weekends can get annoying (plus $50 rotors, $75 rear pads occasioanlly).

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MidShipCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I disagree if hes going with 300whp tops his turbo will be so small it wont even be a downside.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I sorta agree. The only downsides would be brakes, catching fire, spewing oil and smoke from every orifice of the car..

Search for posts by Me, Dr. Pooface, etc. Turbo hondas on a road course are fun as hell, fast, unreliable, expensive to maintain, and generally significantly more pain than it's worth.

Here's my 300 WHP pos integra floating around Gingerman on no brakes and corded front tires. It took MANY weekends of blowing **** up to get to a point where I can run 2 weekends in a row without any MAJOR failures (major failures include cracked exhaust manifolds, cracked piston ringlands, catching fire, spewing oil continuously, breaking axles, etc.)

http://video.google.com/videop...70770

^ this is my last session of the day, I didn't bother finishing because of said corded tires and above pictured brake pads

-Chris

 

Chris F you must work for Greddy or something. Reading your post just made me go and buy a turbo kit.