Part I: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=157882

Well I finally got everything back together and bad news. After filling with fluid, I tried rocking the car in gear a bit, then we tried to push it around in neutral.
-The car acts like it is in gear all the time and won't roll, (in neutral with the clutch down).
-The wheels still turn freely when they are off the ground.
-Engine bogs when I let the clutch out, even in neutral.

The brightside:
Tein HA's are on and look good, dunno how they feel yet.
Engine started right up after ~6months.

Questions:
-Does the final drive gear turn when you rotate one wheel in the air?

-How can the axles turn freely when the car is in the air, but not together when the car is on the ground?

So I'm thinking that the shafts are bound and will not turn at all, which might explain why it won't get into all gears. How can this happen? If the case is together, the shafts have to be in place, right?
tia


[Modified by sackdz, 8:12 AM 4/17/2002]

 

that sucks ed

 

ya oh well, nice weather just wasting away.

 

Wow dude, that totaly sucks...

I haven't a clue on this stuff. When I get home I'll check out the wheel rotation and stuff and let you know on that.

You possitive all the gears/syncros/springs/spacers/etc were put on the main and counter shaft in the right order? We had a hell of a time putting it back thanks to our dunk asses moving all the crap around when we replaced first gear.

 

not a clue, but I'm bumpin this one for ya..

 

I'm pretty sure. Everything appeared to be lined up anyways. I suppose I'm an idiot for not making sure it was working right when it was on the workbench. "Man it's a pain in the *** to shift through gears with this screwdriver, I'll just put it back onto the car and use the shifter and everything will be fine." Okay it wasn't quite like that, but I don't think I double-checked enough.

Oh well, at least I didn't put the front clip back on or torque the spindle nuts.




[Modified by sackdz, 11:37 AM 4/17/2002]

 

Well upon opening the tranny case I saw immediately what was wrong. Simple mistake, I think?



I had forgotten to put the reverse idler gear in it's holder so it was just resting in the teeth at the bottom the whole time.

The case is back together, and all the gears shift in fine, 100% sure of that.

One question before I put it back on the car:
I put an extra clutch I had laying around on the input shaft. I tried turning the clutch, but I can't get it to turn in any gear or even neutral. Is it just that hard? I don't want to get it all back together only to find out it's still bound up.

thnx
Ed

 

bump

 

Good to hear that you figured out what was wrong! I think, but I'm not sure, that it would be very hard to turn the tranny by hand.

 

what work did you pull the tranny for? also, could you post a pic of the correct assembly, i'd like to see the difference. I'm a tranny n00b

 

I'm no mechanic, But I've had a lot of transmissions apart ( and one or two back

together again..) and all of them rotated freely in neutral and with some minor

effort in gear... That's just using a free hand on the input spline... It's hard to turn

the output shaft unless it's in neutral... Yours doesn't sound right.. Particularily

if it won't spin in neutral... Sorry man... wish I could help..

 

Thats what I figured. It wont even budge, and I even torqued it a good 20lbs or so with a 15/16" socket (fits good on the input shaft splines). What could it be?

 

Hey dude make sure you didn't accidentally knock it into gear when putting the case halves together. Its possible to engage two gears at one time and yes this will lock everything together. So make sure none of the hubs are engaged to the synchros and when you put it back together test it on the bench..good luck.

 

If you can't turn the input shaft by hand, don't bother putting it back in the car, you still have a problem. Get a manual and put it together right. It's tough to diagnose something like this without being able to lay hands on it. As stated in post above, check to make sure that none of your synchros are bound to their hubs.Looking at your picture, the trans. is in reverse (reverse engaged). If any other gear is engaged, that would explain the binding. The trans. won't turn with two gears engaged. If you put one of the hub/sleeve sets on backwards, you can also get two gears engaged at the same time (I've done it). Can not be overstated though "get a book"-even pros need the manual sometimes. Good luck!

 

I got the book. I just had everything working properly, gears would shift, shafts would turn, but after beating on the case to get that circlip back in the groove on the coutershaft (I dropped it in), I could tell something wasn't right. What gear position should I have it in when I put the case on? I've been doing it in neutral. I've had the case on and off like 50 times, and I'm running out of Hondabond here. It's hard to make sure everythings working right with the case off because the shift forks wobble without the support at the top and the change holder gets jammed up.

Does it matter what gear it's in when you put the case on?

 

Hmm, I've had trouble with the pin that holds the gear selector thing lining up with the transmission housing. Once I beat the housing on, and it locked the transmission up (input shaft wouldn't turn...)

So I took it apart, and it had knocked it into two gears. I put it in neutral and made sure none of the gears were engaged... then I slid the transmission housing down.... then I got a screwdriver between the housings and sort of pried the above-mentioned pin out towards the edge of the housings. The transmission housing then just slid down with no resistance.

I always then turn the transmisison upside down and knock the housing against the pavement to get that C-clip to engage properly on the countershaft bearing..

Dustin

 

doesn't matter.

LOL!! sorry, that just made me laugh...

tru.... but you could test fit it without hondabond... um, if your counter-shaft is 100% put back into order, you can kinda check if everything will shift correctly by just moving the synchro hubs... and spinning the FD gear by hand... granted the countershaft kinda wobbles.. but, gives you an idea.

anyway,also make sure the locating tang of the mainshaft lines up with the groove on the inside of the tranny case. can't think what would happen if that wasn't lined up corectly right now... don't remember exactly what the inside of the casting looks like..

helms should be able to help you through any problem... if not, post up, or IM myself, Dave-ROR (or whatever his name is thesedays), Asspenny, or any of the rest of the FL crew.... should be able to give some sort of support..

gluck.

D

 

Yea dude, we'll the droping my tranny for the 5th times this weekend If you need any help, let us know.

 

The circlip should not take a great deal of knocking on the case to get the main shaft to move up to it.. Do you have a rubber hammer? A big one will do the job without scrambling the trans guts... make sure the tranny is sitting in it's normal position, not upside down or side ways or anything.. You don't need gravity helping to move things around in there...

Oh, and the manual is great for a guide, but not so hot for troubling shooting assembly problems...

 

Warm, heartfelt, and sincere:


Once again, all gears shifted in easily, mainshaft turned over by hand. This time I only "set" the case against the ground to seat the circlip. Mainshaft then had a lot of resistance, and I could only rotate it with a clutch. By the time the case bolts were all torqued down, it was seized completely.

Anyone want to come help this we-todd get it right?

 

Drive on down to Ft. Lauderdale. We'll be doing mine again to fix the damn pos. We are about 90% sure its the shift rod bolt. See the picture below.



Craig - Who needs to go to the store and stock up on some beer and munchies

 

Alrite, it seems the best I can get it is this:

-Fully reassmbled case minus hondabond
-Input shaft rotates normally for a radian-radain 1/2, then become more difficult to turn, but eventually will become easy again.
-As I turn the input shaft each time I must "work" the gears in, but eventually they will shift in normally
-The input shaft is not bound tight as before


How does that sound? I'm sure effort will drop when it's full of fluid, but it would suck to have to put it on and drop it again...

kreg- I never removed the shift rod so I think that should be fine.


[Modified by sackdz, 10:16 PM 4/23/2002]

 

I did not remove the shift rod either, that is why we are all still a little puzzled over the entire thing.

Don't feel bad about droping the tranny again, we droped my tranny 4 times in less then 2 days. And now, we are going to do it again

 

I don't mind actually doing it, but it's been since december since i drove my f0rkin kaa + it's damn nice outside 8^\

 

i know this is way off the subject here but i want to know if there is a way to tell what year transmission i purchased. it is a jdm itr tranny and there is no vin #. is there a way to find out.