I already posted this on the FI forum but didn't get too much information or leads to fixing my problem so I figured I'd try here as well since it's much more populated in thei forum.

Alright, so here's the deal.
Recently, my brother took his turbo kit off of his d16z6 and swapped it over to my car, which is also a d16z6 motor. No internals were modified on both z6s so the swap should result with fairly similar numbers. Well, I took it to DSR in San Jose for a dyno tuning session and surprising, when the first dyno came out. I was only producing 138whp / 140wtq at 7psi. Now what's weird is that when my brother went to dyno his car a couple years back with the same turbo kit and at the same psi of boost, his car produced 195whp / 167 wtq.
Lawrence from DSR performed a leakdown/leakage test on my motor to see if that's the problem but found no leakage from the piston rings. Compression on my motor is 200psi all across, which is better than that of my brother's z6. I am completely stomped as to how I can be producing almost 50whp less with the same setup and same psi.
Any one have any ideas as to what it can be and help lead me towards a direction that can help me fix this problem. Thanks!

 

what about the ecu? spark plugs?

 

ecu was swapped over with the hondata... spark plugs were replaced

 

Slipping clutch?

No boost leaks?

 

No leaks... the clutch only has about 6k on it... can it already start slipping?

 

you said the turbo was a couple years old. is it still good?

does your buddy have any dyno's from recently?

 

the turbo's been on his car for two years and jsut swapped over... do turbos only last around two years? and how are ways for me to find out if it is indeed the turbo itself?

 

does it have shaft play, can you move the wheel in and out?

any oil around the seals?

platinum

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by platinum00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does it have shaft play, can you move the wheel in and out?

any oil around the seals?

platinum</TD></TR></TABLE>

the shaft was checked right before it was put in... A little play was okay, as I was told... and there wasn't much play on the turbo. as for oil around the seals... which seals are we referring to?

 

Do you have a boost gauge?

He said it was tuned @ 7psi. Whether the turbo is good or not, 7psi is 7psi.

 

Yes I have a boost gauge.. and it's now set at 8psi, and is only producing 146whp... I'm aware psi is psi but there's still possibility that there's something wrong or restricted somewhere....

 

did you guys use different dynos when the engine was tuned?

 

nope both were done at DSR in San Jose.

 

Compression and leakdown test result the same from both cars??

 

what size exhaust are you running

 

Is your exhaust system more restrictive than his? It sounds like you might have a restriction.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eXcelonTypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Compression and leakdown test result the same from both cars??</TD></TR></TABLE>

compression on my motor was 200 all across... and was less on the other motor...

leakdown test for my motor was that there was no leakage in the piston rings... however the other motor never had one... but since my motor has no leakage.. there should be no problems there right?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EKlscoupe_98 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what size exhaust are you running</TD></TR></TABLE>

2.5" that was taken from my brother's car (note this is also the car that the turbo kit came off of) which was a 2dr coupe... it was taken to a local muffler shop to be cut and refitted so it would fit in my hatchback... could the cause be there?

 

bump

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fms1day &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


2.5" that was taken from my brother's car (note this is also the car that the turbo kit came off of) which was a 2dr coupe... it was taken to a local muffler shop to be cut and refitted so it would fit in my hatchback... could the cause be there?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Only if the muffler shop really screwed it up.

Is the base timing set the same on both cars? What plugs are you running, and what is the gap?

 

I know there's two types of welding... one leaves residue and the other is much more cleaner... the one i got at the muffler shop was the one that leaves more residue... spot welding? i know the other one is tick welding but that wasn't the one used on my exhaust... however, can a spot weld be that bad?

timing set to OEM spec... spark plugs were changed at dynospot racing when lawrence (the tuner) did the leakdown test, he gave me new spark plugs... not sure what plugs he put in there, but im sure he knows what plugs would work best but still, only made like a 1-3 whp difference...

 

were weather conditions the same as when your bro got his car done?? Is your electrical system in good condition (no corrsions visble or hidden on wires, all grounds hooked up and tightened down, alternator, battery, etc)?? Have fluids been replaced (engine, tranny)?? Are you running a cat?? Could it be clogged or just old?? Are your brakes dragging causing extra resistance (random I know )?? Wheels bearings and CV's still good??

Do you see where I'm going with this?? There are so many things that have to be taken into account when doing something like what you did with used cars. For instance you could take 2 brand new motors only and put them into 2 used cars using all the same used equipment and the 2 motors probably won't make the same power, but it's just speculation.

Just make a list of things to check and start going down the list from easiest to wierdest.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eXcelonTypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">were weather conditions the same as when your bro got his car done?? Is your electrical system in good condition (no corrsions visble or hidden on wires, all grounds hooked up and tightened down, alternator, battery, etc)?? Have fluids been replaced (engine, tranny)?? Are you running a cat?? Could it be clogged or just old?? Are your brakes dragging causing extra resistance (random I know )?? Wheels bearings and CV's still good??

Just make a list of things to check and start going down the list from easiest to wierdest.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

your list is exactly what i need... leads to possiblities.....
fluids were all replaced with new ones...
weather condition pretty much the same...
no cat installed.... there is a flex pipe that the DSR tuner said to check that may have collapsed but I took the best pictures i could and it seemed fine...
wheel bearings and cv's perfect... otherwise wouldn't i have worser things to worry about? (yes i know worser isnt a word)

I will check for grounds and corrosions 2m...
as for brakes dragging? are you talking about the brake pads touching the rotors while driving?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fms1day &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
as for brakes dragging? are you talking about the brake pads touching the rotors while driving?

</TD></TR></TABLE>
I know they touch a little, but i mean a piston not returning back. easily noticed by excessive dust on one wheel or very uneven pad wear

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eXcelonTypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I know they touch a little, but i mean a piston not returning back. easily noticed by excessive dust on one wheel or very uneven pad wear</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll be sure to check that 2m as well

 

What injectors u runnings?
Weres your Timing?
Do you have a Check engine light?

Sounds like an eletrinic problem or ristriction.....