What size is the bolt that holds on the Crank pulley on a 91 Si? Also, is that normal threaded or reverse threaded?

And while I'm at it, anything hard about doing this, other than the sheer amount of torque you need to apply when removing it?

Thanks.

 

It's normal thread. I forget whether it's 17mm or 19mm.

I usually have to take the flywheel cover off and brace the flywheel with a screwdriver (or similar instrument) while I turn on the bolt w/ a breaker bar and jack handle.

I had the crank pulley bolt on my GSR come off with one hit of the impact gun when I had the pressure up to 135psi though!

 

The crank pulley bolt is 19 mm, and is a BITCH to break loose!!
Matt

 

Normal thread (counter-clockwise to loosen), 19mm bolt. <--correction, I mean 17mm, just found the snapped socket from the first time

It is really on there, I think 9 out of 10 people will have a difficulties. Even with 500lb/ft airguns, tranny in gear, PB blaster, torching the bolt, huge breaker bars, etc, etc.

My trick is to lock the flywheel and as long as you have a long enough lever arm to give you the torque its not that bad. If you don't have a specific tool or like jamming a big flathead between the flywheel teeth/tranny case you can make your own tool.

I remove that flywheel inspection panel on the side-bottom of the tranny (near the header secondary). I have a little strip of scrap metal with 2 holes. I have a bolt that fits the threaded holes in the flywheel and fasten the strip using one of the holes. On the other hole I use one of the bolts from the inspection panel to fasten it to the tranny case. The spacing of the two holes isn't that critical, you can eyeball it, and rotate the flywheel to line them up.

Doesn't seem like much, but that little bit keeps you from spinning the motor or rolling the car, and the crank bolt will come off.


[Modified by XrcR6, 6:35 AM 4/12/2002]


[Modified by XrcR6, 6:37 AM 4/12/2002]


[Modified by XrcR6, 6:22 AM 4/13/2002]


[Modified by XrcR6, 6:23 AM 4/13/2002]

 

Bnjmn, If you're talking about the tool with the big nut on the end, it won't work for the older pulleys.

Todd, if you want to try to get it off of there with my IR2321 (or whatever it's called), it has a supposed 600lb of torque. Let me know if you feel like driving to Dublin. I recommend the flywheel trick although I've busted 1/2" extensions doing it that way. Mine took more than a screw driver. I bolted on bolt in to the bell housing, and put another bolt in one of the bolt holes on the back of the flywheel with a bracket in between. This was all before I got the compressor and gun.

 

Hmmm. Unorthodox recommends putting the tranny in 5th gear and having someone stand on the brakes while cranking on the nut. Is this a good alternative?

And therealciviczc, I might take you up on that offer. Let me know when you are free. Maybe we'll wait until we can do the clutch and do everything at once.

 

I think its a 17mm actually. The way i got mine off was put it in 3rd, nailed the brakes hard, and then had a hockey stick that we put over hte breaker bar, and it snapped right off. Its not too tough to tourque down, just tighten it pretty good and it will be fine.

 

Doesn't work... your drivetrain is like a big spring. All I could do was twist the axles, etc.

 

It's a 17mm hex- use a GOOD impact gun.


[Modified by fixhondas, 7:12 PM 4/12/2002]

 

yeah i just removed mine and it was a 17 mm it was so hard to get off we ended up wedging a wrench against the motor mount and pushing the car backwards with it in first gear but the clutch pedal depressed and as it got rolling we dumped the clutch and it broke loose, but we tried pry bars impact guns everything it really sucked. good luck too you

 

lets specify what motors we are talking about here b/c i know the all b-series motors are 19mm for the crank pulley and i would guess its the same for d series as well.

 

n/m


[Modified by RexB16, 12:53 AM 4/13/2002]

 

D16A6 motor. And yep--a 1/2" breaker bar an 17MM socket didn't work. I had someone stand on the brakes and I put the car in fifth, but all it did was spring back and forth when I tried.

 

Don't want to say I told you so, but...

I got fed up with flexing the breaker bar + extension, rolling the car back and forth trying to do it this way with a friend. And my friend was sick of me calling him over. Also I didn't have access to a high power gun, even if I did, some people have told me stories where they just sheared the bolt head off and then they were really screwed since the threads where still in the crank.

Really, try the little strip of metal to lock the flywheel in place, it was night and day... well almost, I had to put all my weight into it but I'm a lite weight. Oh yeah, if you have a 2-3 ton floor jack that has a detachable handle...slip this over the end of the breaker bar to give you ~3ft of leverage

 

You have to lock the flywheel with something. I taped (yes, ghetto) a screwdriver in place after taking off the flywheel cover.

 

3/4 snap on impactdoes the job quite nicely

 

Anyone replaced their 4th gen pulley with a newer D-series pulley that will take the hex tool described? Will the new pulley work on the old engine?

 

Ok--I'm an idiot...where's the flywheel cover at again?

 

You probably found it by now, didn't follow this thread long enough to see this ?, but...

From underneath the car, looking from the oilpan side, you should see it on the other side of the exhaust downpipe. In fact you need to remove the downpipe (an some brackets down there) to get at it anyway. Or header secondary, if you have a aftermarket header. It's a black painted stamped steel plate, that might look like its bigger than it really is.

 

I haven't myself, but the trick thing for people with the Jackson Racing SC was to use the crank pulley from a 92-95 Civic to increase the boost a few psi (since its a little larger diameter). I believe that's when the hex cut was implemented into the pulley. Gee I wonder why, I bet the Honda technicians were having problems removing these things too... heh heh

So anyway, yes it fits fine. But I would think all else being stock, you will be OVERdriving your accessories (alternator, maybe AC if those ribs are bigger too). You might not want to do that OR get an underdrive pulley for the alt. at the same time to offset it.


[Modified by XrcR6, 11:16 AM 4/25/2002]