Ok before you yell ive searched but i couldnt find exactly what i was looking for.

I have an 89 crx si and i can pick up a low mileage d16y8 for 500 bux. I know this will drop in mounts wise and the tranny will work , axles etc.. My biggest concern is the best way to wire up the vtec. Is it possible to just use the y8 ecu that comes with it and add the three wires for vtec? Will i have to convert anything from obd 1 to obd2?

Should i keep the y8 intake manifold and use my obd1 injectors and resistor box? If somone could post a link to a faq write up or an article about this swap it would be great. I'd like to do it as cheap as possible but i dont want to lose performance becuase of it. SO preferably the right way is what i want. Thanks in advance for the help.

 

why not just run vtec like you would with a b16 swap...

 

which is? running the four wires to the ecu? If this is doable it seems the easiet way.

 

it really is... is your y8 all stock..like internally...cus you could run a pr4 ls ecu, and just get a vafc...

 

A8 is the vtec solenoid
B5 is the pressure switch
B19 is knock sensor
C8 is o2 sensor(secondary)

 

Yeah its all stock. So just use the 78 ecu and add wires for vtec and im set? The motor is obd 2 and my car is obd1 will all the plugs hook up fine? Thanks for your help so far, im a little unfamilar with this

 

You keep mentioning obd1 but crx's are obd0. Are you already running obd1?

If not, and you are running obd0, then I have used the d16y8 harness before, and integrated it into the stock harness although it is not easy. It can be done as I have done it with both obd2a and obd2b harnesses and ecus before. It requires repinning the drivers side shock tower harness plug from the obd2 side to include the obd0 side connector. The wires there including the cooling fan and reverse lights have to be traced and connected accordingly. The passenger side strut tower engine harness can remain empty, as the obd2 harness is doesn't disconnect in the middle, it goes directly to the ecu so you could just run that through the lower oval hole in the firewall. (There is another hole perfect for this harness already on the firewall) The large ugly plug in the crx with the faded yellowy boot with the heavy wires has to be rewired and integrated into the obd2 harness to supply power to the distributor (black with yellow stripe - 10gauge) and the starter trigger wire is in the harness as well (I believe it is white with blue stripe but could be mistaken, must be traced! - 10gauge). Finally, the at the factory ecu plugs, wires must be cut and spliced into the obd2 harness. The attachments include speed sensor (obd2 has electric, but can take speed signal from cable cluster still), battery backup, wire to factory tachometer, ground, (ecu power runs up to drivers strut tower on obd2 harness and can be connect up there or at ecu your choice). Also the main relay trigger will have to be wired so the fuel still primes. I know there are others, but can't remember you'll have to test. Also, another oxygen sensor will have to be installed after the cat, and those four wires must be run to the ecu and spliced as well.
I found that the green plug that is part of the obd2a/b harness at the ecu has all the connections you'll need and there is no need to splice into the obd2 grey plugs. The green plug on obd2a/b cars links to all the instruments and the remainer of the car electrical harness. Also the obd2b ecus need a fuel pressure sensor, and a fix is to use an adjustable voltage potentiometer 10k ohm adjusted to output 2.5volts to the ecu pin to fool it (take ground, 5v out from ecu and adjust to output 2.5volt then connect to the fuel pressure sensor pin at ecu).

Another easier option if after reading above is making you sick, is you can run factory multiport engine harness and everything, simply rewire the obd2 distributor wires to the obd0 plugs, install the obd0 injectors (so clips plug in or use new injectors and solder obd2 plug both will work), and use an obd0 to obd1 conversion harness at the ecu side, then use obd1 ecu such as p28 p06 etc. Then just run the vtec solenoid wire, pressure wire to ecu. You can ground the pressure ground in the engine compartment to the coolant jacket ground so that's one less wire to run. Then you can run the extra three wires for the o2 to the ecu, or just turn off the o2 heater if you chip your ecu. Keep in mind that the tuning of the d16z6 and d16y8 are different, and if you want full performance out of the y8, you may want to chip the ecu to d16y8 timing maps, and remove oxygen sensor heater from ecu for wiring simplicity although you may want to consider this later.

I think I have mentioned most of the hurdles, if there is anything else that i remember i'll post again.

 

hey my bad man...i didnt realize you had obd1 already...that changes everything..your going to need a p28 ecu and an 0bd1 dizzy... everything else is compatible.. sorry again... what motor were you running prior to this swap??

i was under the impression you had an si....all stock which would be obd0

 

Actually its my bad my car is stock obd-0. Sorry about that. SO being obd-0 i need to find a obd-1 ecu,dizzy and injectors. Wire vtec like i would in a b16 swap and have the ecu chipped to remove the o2 heater.

* wait i read that wrong.

-i rewire the 0bd-2 dizzy to accept the obd-0 plug.
-install my a6 injectors. will this require rewiring for the plugs aswell?
-which ecu should i use? the stock y8 or my ar ecu?
-add the wires for vtec and im good to go?

 

ok, here lets get you straightend out once and for all...so you dont have any headaches...

what you need...
your si dizzy... your si harnes... your si tranny
your si ecu...your si injectors...(run the same plugs and resistor box)

Next your going to run your vtec wires like this
A8 vtec solenoid
B5 pressure switch
B19 knock sensor
C8 secondary o2 sensor
Also you can run b16 pr3 or pw0 ecu, however you will run rich...

other than that you should be good.. all other plugs match up the same...
the timing is going to be the same so just stay at TDC...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slpnz6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Next your going to run your vtec wires like this
A8 vtec solenoid
B5 pressure switch
B19 knock sensor
C8 secondary o2 sensor
Also you can run b16 pr3 or pw0 ecu, however you will run rich...
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Does a D16y8 have a knock sensor?

 

ok thanks slpnz6 that clears it up a bit better for me. I was unaware that my ecu was able to run vtec being its a non vtec ecu. Hopfully this will go smoothly. IM still working on my b16 swap into my 86 crx dx its been quite the ordeal and i dont need another non running car in my driveway lol. Thanks alot man

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slpnz6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, here lets get you straightend out once and for all...so you dont have any headaches...

what you need...
your si dizzy... your si harnes... your si tranny
your si ecu...your si injectors...(run the same plugs and resistor box)

Next your going to run your vtec wires like this
A8 vtec solenoid
B5 pressure switch
B19 knock sensor
C8 secondary o2 sensor
Also you can run b16 pr3 or pw0 ecu, however you will run rich...

other than that you should be good.. all other plugs match up the same...
the timing is going to be the same so just stay at TDC... </TD></TR></TABLE>

What he said except for one thing. If you use the y8 intake make sure it came off a manual. You will need to unscrew the IAT sensor off your A6 intake and put it somewhere on the Y8. I drilled a hole in my ebay intake tube and mounted it there.

Hope that helps.

 

you guys are leaving out that he needs to switch out the actual mount that the motor mount bolts to. obd0 one is different. dont confuse the guy with all this jargon.

he will need:

stock si harness
stock si injectors
obd1 dist (or obd2 if he can repin them)
obd0-obd1 jumper for the dist
obd0-obd1 ecu jumper
obd1 vtec ecu
wire up the 4 wire o2

OR the stock ecu but will have no vtec

ill add more if i remember . right now im doin this exact swap into a 90 si and convertin obd1. i finish it tomorrow

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx_racer86 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually its my bad my car is stock obd-0. Sorry about that. SO being obd-0 i need to find a obd-1 ecu,dizzy and injectors. Wire vtec like i would in a b16 swap and have the ecu chipped to remove the o2 heater.

* wait i read that wrong.

-i rewire the 0bd-2 dizzy to accept the obd-0 plug.
-install my a6 injectors. will this require rewiring for the plugs aswell?
-which ecu should i use? the stock y8 or my ar ecu?
-add the wires for vtec and im good to go?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dude save a bunch of time and a little money and get the D16z6 motor and run your SI tranny and switch to OBD1 with P28 ECU.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sauceja &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dude save a bunch of time and a little money and get the D16z6 motor and run your SI tranny and switch to OBD1 with P28 ECU.</TD></TR></TABLE>
why would he want an older motor? how is that money saved? hell have to do maintenance on it sooner. you dont just plug up an obd1 ecu and voila youre obd1. you need to rewire the dist, wire the vtec, wire the 4 wire o2 sensor as well.

 

This is true but since the engine is already out maintenance is easier. Also it would be less complex for him to go to OBD1 then to skip to OBD2 and be untune friendly and heavy on emissions.
Either way he goes he is going to have to mess with his dizzy and o2 sensor. Now he has to worry about a knock sensor or a chip.
You can pick up long blocks for under 500.00 for a z6.

My opinion and everyone has theirs. Personally for me living in a non emissions state I could care less about it.

Only my 0.02 and I am not hating its his car and his last choice just want him to know his options.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sauceja &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is true but since the engine is already out maintenance is easier. Also it would be less complex for him to go to OBD1 then to skip to OBD2 and be untune friendly and heavy on emissions.
Either way he goes he is going to have to mess with his dizzy and o2 sensor. Now he has to worry about a knock sensor or a chip.
You can pick up long blocks for under 500.00 for a z6.

My opinion and everyone has theirs. Personally for me living in a non emissions state I could care less about it.

Only my 0.02 and I am not hating its his car and his last choice just want him to know his options.</TD></TR></TABLE>

an obd2 motor doesnt mean he will need to go obd2. I dont know of anyone that has personally. dont see why anyone would be whacko enough to go from 0 -2 . if he stays obd0 he wont need to mess with the 02 sensor. he will just need a switch for his vtec, whether its an rpm activated switch or a manual switch. I just stated the best way. lucky you for the emissions free state

 

I had a y8 in my crx for 2 years with a stock obd0 wiring and pm6 ecu. I used an afc I picked up for $150 to run vtec.

 

I am not saying he couldn't shouldn't do it. Maybe if he doesn't have alot of engine bay time and wiring it might be easier for obd1 z6. Either way when you put an engine not made for the car there is usually minor/major things that will need to be done.

 

I dont see what the big deal is...

If he stays obd0 all the only wiring issues will be:
1) the placement of the IAT sensor
2) Injectors, plugs are different on obd2 and no resistor box is needed.
3) An 88-91 Si distributer will attach perfectly.
4) He can use the y8's tb mounted map or his firewall mounted map sensor.

Worry about vtec/obd1 after you get the engine in and running.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 13g-crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had a y8 in my crx for 2 years with a stock obd0 wiring and pm6 ecu. I used an afc I picked up for $150 to run vtec.</TD></TR></TABLE>
so then can you use the obd0 dist on the y8 head? I was under the impression that you couldnt. :/ maybe i shoulda tried it first. right now im runnin a Z6 dist with only the top leg on it. the y8 was missin the tach signal wire. which i added to it. but then it still wouldnt fire up .

 

obd0 dist will bolt right up to the y8 head, obd0 injectors will go into the y8 IM and fuel rail (may have to modify the seals, can't remember) extend your wires to the map sensor and run it over to the top mount map sensor on th y8 TB. You'll have to move the AIT sensor to the intake pipe somewhere.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 13g-crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">obd0 dist will bolt right up to the y8 head, obd0 injectors will go into the y8 IM and fuel rail (may have to modify the seals, can't remember) extend your wires to the map sensor and run it over to the top mount map sensor on th y8 TB. You'll have to move the AIT sensor to the intake pipe somewhere. </TD></TR></TABLE>
but this is only if youre stayin obd0 right?
i converted my girls crx to obd1. usin the z6 dist with only 1 leg on it . its runnin kinda crappy and throwin code 14 :/

 

Yeah that's right. OBD0 dizzy's have a different pulse rate than the OBD1 and 2s do. That means the ECU and dizzy have to match, and preferably the dizzy bolts on too haha. Get a y8 or y7 dizzy and you'll be all set.
I'm working on a write up for my mini-me, but it's all the same **** as you're talking about here now. Best, cleanest way to do it is run a chipped p28.