Ok, I started to change over my rotors and calipers today. After a little but of drama getting the rotor off and taking out a stripped bolt that holds the rotor to the hub, I can't seem to get the damn bearing off. I took the 4 bolts off the back and the thing won't budge. I tried putting the bolts in halfway, and hitting it from behing, bu no luck. Any ideas?

Also, when the hub came off, half of the inner piesc of the bearing came with it. Any ideas on getting that off? That same piece comes off rather easily on the new bearing, so I was thinking just leave that piece on the hub and use the rest of the new bearing, but i figured that's probably not the best thing to do.

 

put some wd40 inside of it (where it's lodged) and let it sit for a while and then try to pound it off...you might be able to get it off like that...but those bolts on the back are what hold the bearing on so i dunno what the deal is...good luck!

 

The rotors are pressed on so you need to press them off. And now that you've been beating on them a bit you need a new wheel bearing (~$70.00) If you beat on it too much the wheel bearing is going to wobble if you don't replace it.

HAVE SOMEONE WITH THE RIGHT EQUIPMENT DO IT!

WD-40 will not work it actually makes it worse by getting in side the wheel bearing and adds extra slop to it.

 

you must take the steering knuckle off and take it in have old bearings pressed off, and new ones pressed in

 

They are a pain in the *** to take off. Separating the hub can be accomplished by threading LONGER bolts into the hub, snug at first, then turning each bolt in incrementally. Eventually the bolts will force out(separate) the hub and disk will free. This is a trick i learned from honda mechs. Installation however requires 3000lbs of pressure from a hub compressor(or hydraulic press in my case) to press the hubs together. Defintely take it to midas or another shop with a hub compressor to do this. Also, if you do get new bearing which i did as well since there was noticable wobble in the hub with the disks still on. As for replacement inner hub, there are two types, one made in the us, another made in japan. I picked the jdm replacement as the construction was visually much better(shiny finished rather than cast and rough). Not sure as to which one is stronger but considering the stocks came with usdm hubs, i think the jdm is better quality, and the result is no play whatsoever in the hub assembly.

 

i'd say torch it. the bolt will melt befor any thing else i had to do it when putting in new struts the bolt rusted to the strut and i used a torch to melt the bolt out.

 

an iron bolt... no, don't try that. The old propane torch method works for seized bolts sometimes nopt melting but expanding/contracting to unseize, but don't try this near the hub bearings, esp. ones that a seal and packed with grease!!! Acetylene will work, but i wouldn't do it just for a bolt since you'll melt the thread too.

 

I ended up taking the whole knuckle off and whacked at it from behind. I have new bearings, so I didn't care about the old ones. I'm going to take the hubs somewhere to get the inner part of the bearing off them. Then all i gotta do is slap everything back together.