So a few weeks ago I thought I had broken an axle, I was getting ridiculous binding in turns. Knowing that my axles were semi-seized in the hub I was not happy about replacing it. A few months ago a friend and I tried taking the axles out to replace the trans and the axles wouldn't come out with a impact hammer . So after a week of continuous PB blasting I was able to break it loose with the two hammer method, totally destroyed the outer shaft, so bad that I had to cut the end in order to pull the axle thru the hub. Got a rebuilt axle from auto zone, put it in, and had the same problems. Thought maybe I was stupid/crazy so I replaced the other side as well(same process as above). Needless to say I'm having the same problem.

Things I have learned, it only happens after I have been driving for over 20 miles. It happens as soon as the wheel is turned from straight. And its annoying as hell!!!!

The trans has a 4.9FD and a clutch-pack differential. I have no clue what kind of diff it is, I came across it a while back put it in and its been great. It has about 15-25k on it and no idea what it had before me.

Questions, I'm pretty sure they are rebuildable, has anyone ever rebuilt one? Whats involved? How much do new clutch packs go for? And if all else fails what diff do you guys recommend? ATS Carbon? Spoon? Mugen?


To make this thread even longer I have some pics of a friends car we have been working on for awhile now, and a few of my $pit. We have built his car from the ground up, and are very pleased with the turn out. His car wasn't built to drive so some of you wont see the point so look at my car. Any questions feel free to ask or comment!!

Jim





















Thanks for looking

 

nice pics... thanks for sharing

 

damn, and I thought my balljoints were a pain in the ***.

 

Nice pics....

....I also feel your pain about frozen axles.....mine were so frozen that i had to literally break them to pieces before they would come out....had little metal ***** rolling all over the garage....

 

Lol, yea I've never had axles that were in so well. It was either beat them to hell or take the entire hub off and press them out. Luckily they came out with some walker torque!

Thanks for the comments!!! Anyone ever rebuild a diff?

 

Are they both yours? Lucky bastard!

 

No, the white one is a long time friend who dumped a ton'o'money into it. I just worked on it! As you can tell I cant drive flawless cars, they always seem to get messed up!

 

did somebody say ATS carbon?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did somebody say ATS carbon? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes but if I can rebuild my diff I would rather do that. I heard the ATS is a fine piece though!!

 

yasu from ats usa cannot stop raving about it

he'll talk your ears off

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yasu from ats usa cannot stop raving about it

he'll talk your ears off </TD></TR></TABLE>

Maybe he can rave to me a big discount!!

 

Nice pics.

 

Thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Lol, yea I've never had axles that were in so well. It was either beat them to hell or take the entire hub off and press them out. Luckily they came out with some walker torque!

</TD></TR></TABLE>

oh man, you're lucky....I DID take out the entire hub, tried pressing it out w/ a 12 ton press and it still wouldn't come out. And that was after letting is soak up PB Blaster for over 8 hours! I've NEVER had such a problem w/ axles before and I hope I never have to go through that again. You should have seen us drop off the core, we practically left the box at the parts shop and ran away...lol

And sorry that I can't answer your original question...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did somebody say ATS carbon? </TD></TR></TABLE>

ATS metal is better for most users. rebuilding them is easy, i have done it many many times.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn, and I thought my balljoints were a pain in the ***. </TD></TR></TABLE>

umm.. wasn't i the one that replaced your balljoint?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rodney &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ATS metal is better for most users. rebuilding them is easy, i have done it many many times.

umm.. wasn't i the one that replaced your balljoint? </TD></TR></TABLE>

This car will be driven on the street as well as the track, I heard the carbon is better for that? I havent dropped the trans yet, but I'll be sure to snap an assload of pics!! What is involved in the rebuild? If I can rebuild a trans you would think I should be able to rebuild a diff correct?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shotenITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

oh man, you're lucky....I DID take out the entire hub, tried pressing it out w/ a 12 ton press and it still wouldn't come out. And that was after letting is soak up PB Blaster for over 8 hours! I've NEVER had such a problem w/ axles before and I hope I never have to go through that again. You should have seen us drop off the core, we practically left the box at the parts shop and ran away...lol

And sorry that I can't answer your original question... </TD></TR></TABLE>

For now on I use anti seize on everything!!

 

in a nutshell, the carbon diff has a softer enguagement, with ultimately a lesser lockup rate. if you are racing, or can deal with a little chatter, metal is the way to go.

 

Will the metal chatter that bad even with a friction modifier? I read that the metal requires more maintnance then the carbon.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Will the metal chatter that bad even with a friction modifier? I read that the metal requires more maintnance then the carbon.</TD></TR></TABLE>

nah, maintainence is the same. i run metal because it is a little cheaper, and has ultimately more locking ability. carbon is softer enguagement, thus a little quiter, but giving up a little in overall torque.

a clutch type diff will never be as smooth through the pits/street like oem/quaife. if it is, it is annilated. when the metal is fresh, at the top of the initial torque adjustment, there is some chatter/clicking. sounds like a bad axle. if i had a dime for evey time someone told me i needed an axle, i would be donald trump....

 

lol, me too. I should of done that and now would have enough money to buy another diff.

What are signs of them going out?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rodney &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

umm.. wasn't i the one that replaced your balljoint? </TD></TR></TABLE>

hey rawdknee, long time no see!

same fugging thing happened!! I tried all the methods in the book this time, it wont budge. ah well

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What are signs of them going out?</TD></TR></TABLE>

well, aside from catastrophic failure (which has never happened to me, and i have been running the ATS since 2000) which is obvious, the major sign is the clicking/chatter dies down. you can actually feel the diff not bite so hard on corner exit.
personally, i never let it drop that low, as i freshen it up once a year. this is on a strictly autocross car, with no street miles and i am very **** with it. i want it to be in tip top shape as every 1/10 of a second counts in autox.
if you drive on the street, and/roadrace you you will see more wear then i do. if you are bouncing off curbs or daily drive it 50 miles a day, you will have to keep an eye on the initial torque. this can be easily accomplished with a beam type torque wrench on an exle nut, with one wheel off the ground. i know some people that have 2 to 3 years with 20~30k on them, and they still work great, better then an oem diff.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey rawdknee, long time no see!

same fugging thing happened!! I tried all the methods in the book this time, it wont budge. ah well </TD></TR></TABLE>

what? you need to replace the other side? is the joint bad, or you just can't get it apart?

 

Anybody know the cost of new clutch packs?