Hey. I have a 99 Civic Si and am looking to replace the motor mount bushings.

I am going to go with the Energy Suspension ones. ES says theres just go over the stock ones and it takes 5 minutes to install.

I have done a search and found out the rear one is a huge bitch to install. I am thinking of leaving that one out and just doing the 2 front ones.

Anyone have a how to?
How important is the rear one to fixing wheel hop? ( i also heard the rear one is the main reason for vibration which i would like to eliminate)


Modified by TurboEM1 at 1:16 PM 3/22/2006

 

anyone?

 

rear one is the most important lol. the rest do very little without it.

 

the two lower front mounts are what control vibration, the 3 larger ones are what support the engine/tranny. If you need to replace the mounts, the inserts will not do much as they are just that - inserts. If you add these, you can mix and match whichever inserts you want that you feel work (just adding the front 2 will reduce wheel hop). Remember, that you will see a large increase in vibration throughout your car (dash vibration especially). But to answer your question, you will see some reduction in wheel hop with only the front two installed (and moreso with all 3 installed)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rbanke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the two lower front mounts are what control vibration, the 3 larger ones are what support the engine/tranny. If you need to replace the mounts, the inserts will not do much as they are just that - inserts. If you add these, you can mix and match whichever inserts you want that you feel work (just adding the front 2 will reduce wheel hop). Remember, that you will see a large increase in vibration throughout your car (dash vibration especially). But to answer your question, you will see some reduction in wheel hop with only the front two installed (and moreso with all 3 installed)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea the ES come with the 2 lower and the rear.

Do you think i should buy the prothane which is the 2 upper?

Which of the 5 mounts deals with wheel hop and engine movement the most?


Modified by TurboEM1 at 8:28 PM 3/22/2006

 

I havnt messed with them in ages so i couldnt say for sure. Ive only tried the set that came with 3 inserts (ive installed them 3 seperate times an removed them on my personal car after about a week). Just the 3 made alot of difference in taking off but i didnt like the extra vibration. Maybe someone else here can give you some advice about the 5 pcs set

 

the rear one is most important, but the front two lower ones help the wheel hop... but like state before, prepare for to FEEL the vibration!

 

I just installed the ES polyurethane inserts into my stock 2000 civic. Well i only installed the front 2 torque ones because the back is a b**** i dont want to deal with right now. No it doesnt take 5 minutes, give yourself 30.

To install the front torque ones you'll need to unbolt the torque mount first. Then put a jack under the engine and loosen the upper motor mount a lot. Maybe even all the way. Let the jack down so the engine can drop about an inch. Pull out the torque mount, install inserts, jack the motor back up, and tighen all the bolts. Then do the other side.

Even with only the front 2 installed I can feel the difference. The motor feels more stable. I know it's kinda hard to believe that i felt the difference, but i did like the second i drove it. With just those 2 inserts the idle vibration does increase. The idle feels like the car is gonna die but it's not. I do recommend these inserts. It'll be nice when i have time to do the rear one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboLaxx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I just installed the ES polyurethane inserts into my stock 2000 civic. Well i only installed the front 2 torque ones because the back is a b**** i dont want to deal with right now. No it doesnt take 5 minutes, give yourself 30. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea Ill leave off the back and see how I like it. If i need it ill install it. 30 minutes is not bad. As long as its under 5 hours lol.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboLaxx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
To install the front torque ones you'll need to unbolt the torque mount first. Then put a jack under the engine and loosen the upper motor mount a lot. Maybe even all the way. Let the jack down so the engine can drop about an inch. Pull out the torque mount, install inserts, jack the motor back up, and tighen all the bolts. Then do the other side.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

That doesnt seem to bad. I am worried about the fact that my jack drops pretty fast. I dont wanna drop the whole engine. Also can this be done with the car on the ground or you have to jack it up?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboLaxx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Even with only the front 2 installed I can feel the difference. The motor feels more stable. I know it's kinda hard to believe that i felt the difference, but i did like the second i drove it. With just those 2 inserts the idle vibration does increase. The idle feels like the car is gonna die but it's not. I do recommend these inserts. It'll be nice when i have time to do the rear one. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Im going to be ordering some thanks!

 

Turbolaxx:

I read that you should use some sort of silicone or HONDABOND in between the inserts. Any truth to this???

 

forgot to mention, i have a writeup on how to do this on my website (havnt updated it in a long time though =P) http://www.hazone.com/hmtrmount.htm

 

I just changed my motor mounts last week. I already had inserts, but I got hasports so I installed those. THE REAR IS A PAIN IN THE ***!
It took me a few hours to get it changed but I'm kind of retarded so you might be able to do it faster. Good Luck!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rbanke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">forgot to mention, i have a writeup on how to do this on my website (havnt updated it in a long time though =P) http://www.hazone.com/hmtrmount.htm</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the link! I just have a question.

Do you need to support the engine with a jack while doing the 2 front lowers? You didnt mention it except on the rear mount.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboEM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thanks for the link! I just have a question.

Do you need to support the engine with a jack while doing the 2 front lowers? You didnt mention it except on the rear mount.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

no, you sure dont.

 

One more thing. Can you do it with the car on the ground? Im assuming it would be easier to do if you jack the car up and take off the wheels but im just curious.

 

most likely will need to jack... (depends if ur dropped or stock)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dohcdelsol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Turbolaxx:

I read that you should use some sort of silicone or HONDABOND in between the inserts. Any truth to this???</TD></TR></TABLE>

I didnt read anything about that in the instructions. I dont know why you would need any because it comes with special zip ties that hold it all together.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboEM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the link! I just have a question.

Do you need to support the engine with a jack while doing the 2 front lowers? You didnt mention it except on the rear mount.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I recommend supporting the engine while changing the front lower torque mounts. When i had to unbolt the upper engine mounts and lowered the motor..i bet i could have lowered the motor down a few inches...which could be very bad for the other 3 mounts because of all the twisting. Dont risk breaking another mount because you didnt support the engine.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboEM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">One more thing. Can you do it with the car on the ground? Im assuming it would be easier to do if you jack the car up and take off the wheels but im just curious.</TD></TR></TABLE>
My car is lowered so i can barely get the jack under the car, let alone myself. I think jacks makes everything easier. I put a jack stand under both jack points behind the front tires. This left my jack free to support my motor while doing the insets and gave me lots of working space. You dont need to take off the wheels for this so leave them on.

 

good info-thanks

 

I have a 99 Civic Si myself and i have the ES front lower inserts and the Prothane upper inserts and Prothane rear which i prefer to use over the ES rear cause it seems much stiffer. I would say the rear one made the biggest difference and also took me forever to install. I had all except the rear one in and after my clutch/flywheel install i had a ton of wheelhop and then after i got the rear one installed it all just disappeared. Thats my personal opinion and experience with mine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboLaxx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I didnt read anything about that in the instructions. I dont know why you would need any because it comes with special zip ties that hold it all together.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

The prothane kit, which included the upper tranny, rear, and driver upper does not come with zipties. i know the energy do though.

 

It's really straight forward once you see it... no real need for a write up. I just used regular zip ties for mine.

Try to do the rear one.. it's a bitch, but it's definately doable (you might have to remove your heater core hoses). Otherwise, try to remove that rear tranny mount to do it. I did that AFTER I did the front two, and I noticed a difference after that, too.