Got my car tuned today by Bubba. My hope for this car is to hit 200whp. Here's the start for my build. Are these low #'s for my setup or is it around the power range it should be making? Any helpful opinions welcome. Overall feel of the car is much better than stock. It rips good. Too bad I didn't dyno when I had it stock.

My setup:

99 Jdm ITR stock bottom end
Aem CAI (SI version)
Mugen replica header 2.5'
2.5' Carsound Hi-flow (broke) -- Will replace w/Omni 2.5 test pipe
Apexi WSII exhaust
Buddy Club Spec IV cams
Toda Camgears
BC dual valvesprings and ti-retainers
BC valves
BC headgasket
00 Civic Si tranny






Modified by blkcivicpn0i at 9:08 PM 3/10/2006

 

Only 177 after tuning at Bubba's with Spec IV's? Was the car starving for fuel? How long did he spend tuning it? If everything is healthy, id suggest a test pipe, possibly an RMF or SMSP header...

 

1 hour of tuning.. I was hoping for bigger #'s but he said that's what it should do with a stock motor w/ these cams. He had suggested getting some porting on the head, better header, 2.5 exhaust. 3" intake, Victor X manifold.

 

Your cams Are way to big for what you have...

 

What was your final ignition timing at? With BC4's and 11:1 you should be in the high 20's/low 30's in the WOT columns. If you have conservative timing that will kill your power.

What are you using to tune with?

Also that header and exhaust isn't helping the topend.

 

I'm not sure what he set the timing at.. I'll check tommorow. I'm using a Hondata s100.. Yea, I eventually wanna get a better header and upgrade to a 2.5" mandrel-bent pipes to a 2.5 Es oval w/ Omni test pipe.. What's your suggestion about getting more power if it is in a conservative timing?

 

Yea...well ya see....11:1 on bc4's is your #1 problem...

 

I would disagree with that comment^^. With a SMS/DTR/RMF header, a better exhaust, and a valve job I think that motor would make allot more power.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clean rice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would disagree with that comment^^. With a SMS/DTR/RMF header, a better exhaust, and a valve job I think that motor would make allot more power.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What do you mean a valve job?

 

It's usually a 3 angle valve job, some do 5's but it increases the flow of air to the combustion chambers....one of the most important parts in a good head job.

 

hmmm.. odd.. my 97 spec itr swap did 177 to the wheels, 100% stock untouched internals...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by USDM EG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmmm.. odd.. my 97 spec itr swap did 177 to the wheels, 100% stock untouched internals...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wondered the same thing but after talking to Elton @ Raceline Development and Bubba, they basically help me understand one thing, that they both tune in a conservative way, meaning that they don't produce big #'s on their but in other people's dynos it'll have a higher #. I'll just have to take this to the track and see how she do. I should've dyno'd when it was stock to see how much gain I had. Right now my CR should be 11.4 with the BC hg. I could bump it up more with some CTR pistons but Bubba suggested not to, to avoid detonating. I'll prolly take it to AMS's dyno day to see how it do on their dyno.
The thing that surprised me is the TQ, it looks low for me. I expected to get around 12x, but Bubba said it was normal. I would've taken this to Church but they weren't answering the phone and I heard lots of good stuff with Bubba even though his dyno read low but more honest in someway ( Elton said the same thing).

 

Yup, you should take it to the track and see what it runs. I had a 97 JDM ITR stock (untouched) block w/ FNWerkz Headwork, that I took to Bubba for dyno last year. I made 201whp and 129lbs torque. With also a 1 hour dyno run... I was kinda down at the numbers, but when taken to the track, I hit a 12.46 on a street car. I retired that motor, and the motor is still running strong. My brother in law has it now, and hit a 12.2 (2 weeks ago) on a street car.

Its funny cause some people are pulling 220+ when they dyno, and we have been hitting better times then them... Just test it out...

Good luck!!!

 

hmmm...well every dyno is different... but those are my number, fast 1/4 mile is 13.2 @ 100mph
average 13.3 and my highest trap is 102, average 100-101.

keep in mind, that is full interior, with ac, drove to the track, only thing switched is slicks!

TRUE STREET DRIVEN, but no longer daily driven...thanks to my 91 Civic Wagon!

ohh yeah, forgot to mention, its a 95 DX Hatch.... blah blah blah...just another civic with a b series (So my friend tells me)

 

thank uiu for kicking his ***.... i love those kind of kills...

 

Is that a dyno glitch at 8,000 ? That dip should be tuned out if it's the motor. Looks like the motor wants to rev higher. At the very least you should look into a better header.

 

Doesn't anyone see that the torque is not dropping off at all by 8000 rpm? if the torque stays level then rev it higher. It will make more power. If the torque holds until 8500 then he'll make mid 180's. With some more compression and some rod bolts he should be making a lot more.

Pirate

 

That motor looks like it still has power to 9000rpm.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ladysiknezz805 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I had a 97 JDM ITR stock (untouched) block w/ FNWerkz Headwork, that I took to Bubba for dyno last year. I made 201whp and 129lbs torque.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

stock? what about intake? header? exhaust? AC/PS? cams?
that's a little hard to believe if it was STOCK stock and just some headwork.

 

i have a bone stock ITR swap basic bolt-ons in a coupe, 186whp 132tq ran 13.7 @101 2.0 60ft on bfg 22 inch drag radials. hope that helps...

 

you are not even seeing a peak on those cams when u are shutting off at 8k.. that cam is designed to make power higher.. if you dont want to rev as high then you need to go with a milder cam that will peak lower.. you need to rev atleast to 8600 i think. change your rev limit and re dyno if you dont like the number.

shawn

 

Stock internals, cam gears but set to 0,0. Just bolt ons

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EVOL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

stock? what about intake? header? exhaust? AC/PS? cams?
that's a little hard to believe if it was STOCK stock and just some headwork.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's why I said <U>stock BLOCK</U>.

Of course theres cams (Stage II), blox intake manifold, and profab headers... And the Headwork....

 

I've said it before in similar threads, and I'll say it yet again...

Rev it higher.

Those cams will make great power to at least 8800-9000 RPM.

 

I dunno why he didn't rev it higher, it seemed like he was afraid of blowing it up by not taking it past 8k. I'll have to ask him about it.