is it really worth paying an extra 700 dollars to get a gsr or should i pay less for the b16 and upgrade it with a cai, flywheel, etc. to gain the torque and hp that a gsr would have.....i have connections to a cai and flywheel, so those are no extra money

 

just get the GSR if its that bit of a difference there is more displacement in the B18

 

the b18 has more room for improvement and responds way better to mods. long run yes, get a GSR

 

my opinion - gsr is a waste of money unless your leaving it stock.

you can buy the b16, bore it to whatever you want just sleve it, and have a torque monster (torque is everything, hp is just cool) and still be able to rev it to the moon, because we all know, if you want to see big gains, the rpm's have to be big too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by infumis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my opinion - gsr is a waste of money unless your leaving it stock.

you can buy the b16, bore it to whatever you want just sleve it, and have a torque monster (torque is everything, hp is just cool) and still be able to rev it to the moon, because we all know, if you want to see big gains, the rpm's have to be big too.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I strongly disagree. Sleeving a B16A and buying larger pistons is NOT going to be a cheap proposition. By the time all is said and done, you will have spend WELL over $1000 on top of the cost of a B16A, just to get a whopping 1715cc (with 84mm pistons). Just get the GSR (1797cc stock). For the extra $700, there is NOTHING you can do to a B16A to get that extra 10HP and (especially) 17ft-lb torque. And if you want more displacement, you can resleeve to 84mm for 1956cc on the GSR.

 

You can get a b18a/b for cheap also and then put a b16a head when your finances can afford it for an even bigger than gsr motor. Dan

 

get b16 with lsd tranny and go turbo

 

if you have the money buy a gsr, if you dont buy a b16...either build a ls vtec or build a torque monster b16, you will get WAY more gains off of those 2 rather than a gsr and it has been proven by me and all the others out there...now if you turbo a b16, you need it to rev high to make the power, like 10,000 rpm is what im talking about, and to hit 10g while boosted is a hard thing to do, you can blow your cylenders apart, not from too much boost or any of that junk that poeple say, you DONT have to sleeve anything and you dont have to put in a blockgaurd, you just have to tune it to the **** so you dont detonate, which will blow your walls apart...we built a b16 t3/t4...the rev limit was 9000, and we quickly found out that we needed to rev it to 10,000+...on the dyno it was staying astraight from 8500-rev limit, couldnt figure out why, so we bumped it to 10,000 and it had 2 more spikes and i wanted to bump it to 10,500 to watch what that last spike jumped too...i kinda went off there for a bit, but it gives you an idea of what can be built, and with a ls vtec, b16 84mm bore and the b16turbo, we made some veeerrryyy wild power off of all 3.


tye

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by infumis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you have the money buy a gsr, if you dont buy a b16...either build a ls vtec or build a torque monster b16, you will get WAY more gains off of those 2 rather than a gsr and it has been proven by me and all the others out there...now if you turbo a b16, you need it to rev high to make the power, like 10,000 rpm is what im talking about, and to hit 10g while boosted is a hard thing to do, you can blow your cylenders apart, not from too much boost or any of that junk that poeple say, you DONT have to sleeve anything and you dont have to put in a blockgaurd, you just have to tune it to the **** so you dont detonate, which will blow your walls apart...we built a b16 t3/t4...the rev limit was 9000, and we quickly found out that we needed to rev it to 10,000+...on the dyno it was staying astraight from 8500-rev limit, couldnt figure out why, so we bumped it to 10,000 and it had 2 more spikes and i wanted to bump it to 10,500 to watch what that last spike jumped too...i kinda went off there for a bit, but it gives you an idea of what can be built, and with a ls vtec, b16 84mm bore and the b16turbo, we made some veeerrryyy wild power off of all 3.


tye</TD></TR></TABLE>

what?!!! you do not need to rev to 10000 on a b16 to make good power! what kind of power are you talking about? you will definitly have less torque but h-t is full of turbo b16's makin 300-400-500 whp with stock heads,valvetrains and rev limits and to answer the original question i think it depends on what kinda goals you want if i wanted to go turbo i would go with the cheaper engine and put money toward the turbo if i was going all motor i probably go with the gsr...

 

the b16 is ment to rev, why do you think they gave it the rod/stroke ratio of 1.74...it was built to rev, and really high because it makes very very good power up high...so to end this, the b16 was built to take a very harsh punishment, and it can take it.

tye

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by infumis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the b16 is ment to rev, why do you think they gave it the rod/stroke ratio of 1.74...it was built to rev, and really high because it makes very very good power up high...so to end this, the b16 was built to take a very harsh punishment, and it can take it.

tye</TD></TR></TABLE> i disagree revving ANY motor to 10000 is unrealistic, not to mention that with the GSR there is a better opportunity for more power. in my opinion however, i would go lsVTEC or even B20VTEC they will both be cheaper than the GSR(for example buy the b16 and then buy a b20 block(350) and a vtec conversion kit(200) and youll have even more torque

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KINGSOL18 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> however, i would go lsVTEC or even B20VTEC they will both be cheaper than the GSR</TD></TR></TABLE>

Alot depends on how cheap you can get a GSR. I got a GSR motor a couple of years ago for $1000. If you can find a motor this cheap, then this would most definitely be a better way to go than LS-VTEC.

 

why not get both? poor mans r! lol. I'd get a gsr motor if I was starting from scratch. Or keep your eyes peeled for some jdmr's there's been a ton of people selling their motors for k's....

 

what are your plans for the car, ??? all motor, or fi ??? ,and whoever said that you cant gain 10 hp and 17 tq for 700$ is lying there *** off!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StorminMatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Alot depends on how cheap you can get a GSR. I got a GSR motor a couple of years ago for $1000. If you can find a motor this cheap, then this would most definitely be a better way to go than LS-VTEC.</TD></TR></TABLE> your right but i havent seen a GSR motor go for 1 grand thats a deal and a half. i was assuming the b16 would be ~1000 and the gsr was ~1700 cuz he said the GSR was 700 more

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan Ruddock &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can get a b18a/b for cheap also and then put a b16a head when your finances can afford it for an even bigger than gsr motor. Dan</TD></TR></TABLE>

IS reliablity an issue cuz if it is then LSvtec is NO GOOD unless you have some one with lots of experience building it and even then i would just get the GSR RELIABLE EVERYDAY HORSEPOWER

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by young noob &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what are your plans for the car, ??? all motor, or fi ??? ,and whoever said that you cant gain 10 hp and 17 tq for 700$ is lying there *** off!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Tell me how you are going to get 10HP from a B16A (or any motor) for $700. And I'm not talking about halfassing it by adding cams without the valvetrain upgrade that is required. As for 17ft-lb of torque or $700, I guess a good magic wand might come in handy here. And who knows what they cost. Not that the B16A is a bad motor. But when you have go from a B16A to a 1.8 liter VTEC, you can REALLY feel the difference. Also keep in mind that this is an upgrade that NOBODY regrets (When was the last time you heard someone say they should have stuck with a B16A instead of upgrading?). But PLENTY of people regret settling with a B16A vs spending the extra cash on a GSR. I know I did.

 

this is my 2nd b16 and i just love them my first b16 hatch was IMO just crazy fast, I only had intake, exhaust, clutch and was running low 14's but then again everyone drives different. Again stay b16 with lsd b16 or gsr tranny and your good to go.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StorminMatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Tell me how you are going to get 10HP from a B16A (or any motor) for $700. And I'm not talking about halfassing it by adding cams without the valvetrain upgrade that is required. As for 17ft-lb of torque or $700, I guess a good magic wand might come in handy here. And who knows what they cost. Not that the B16A is a bad motor. But when you have go from a B16A to a 1.8 liter VTEC, you can REALLY feel the difference. Also keep in mind that this is an upgrade that NOBODY regrets (When was the last time you heard someone say they should have stuck with a B16A instead of upgrading?). But PLENTY of people regret settling with a B16A vs spending the extra cash on a GSR. I know I did.</TD></TR></TABLE>

170 password intake with velocity stack
150 itr/ctr intake cam
185 blox intake mani
200 used type r exhaust mani

garuntee that makes more than 10 hp and about 17 tq, all for $705

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by young noob &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

170 password intake with velocity stack
150 itr/ctr intake cam
185 blox intake mani
200 used type r exhaust mani

garuntee that makes more than 10 hp and about 17 tq, all for $705</TD></TR></TABLE>

First off, you are NOT going to get 17ft-lb torque from these mods. It's not going to happen. PERIOD! Also, you are npt going to find a CTR/ITR intake cam for $150 unless you buy something used (and worn). Last time I checked, this cam goes for $250 from Acura. And, as I said before, a valvetrain upgrade is a REALLY good idea here. Also keep in mind that intake manifold upgrades are virtually worthless on any kind of mild B16A. As for 10HP from these mods, it could happen. But if the motor is untuned, I would not completely count on it.

 

i really dont see how with these mods you think that its that farfetched, seriously man, and also why the hell do you need new valve-train with an itr/ctr cam, its drop-in, and just rev it to the stock rev-limiter, i know tons of people that drop these cams in without new vt, and they have no problems what-so-ever, thats why they pick these cams, hell another 250 bucks gets you a k-teller 2.5 exhaust......, with the mods i listed, its totally possible

 

k first off, i saw what freaking infumis said and it got me going. you can not just bore out a b16 and expect so much TQ. boring it gives you HP, ya some TQ. to get TQ you should stroke it. huh.... haha. its funny. ha. but if you stoke it then you got to deal with getting the money done to do it then bore it. pistons, rods, crank of course. and thats just $$$$$.
so wat i say if you want to start of in a good page other then getting the GSR then i would get the B16 and either get the vtec block from a GSR. and get your 1.8 down with not spend over the 700 dollors. or save your b16 block and if you want to stroke it then get the b17 stroker. for the not that much.
HEEELLLLL. im just dong wat everyone else is doing so you got the ideas so now pick and do research. good luck with ya.

 

chad
Honda-Tech Member
"i got 201 hp and 122 tq out of my b16 with b17 crank with b17 rods and ctr pistons....
with toda c's and worked head
toda header
itr intake manifold
itr tbody
power fc"

if this guy got this on that setup then im not sure about the mods your saying it would go to. ive seen a lot of b16 fully built freakin make max 130TQ and mostly under 200HP. so im starting to doubt that now.

also...

BryanPendleton
I swaped in a whole OE B17 shortblock for my B16 swap. . . you can find my dyno on here. Pretty mild build though.

http://www.cardomain.com/membe...l.jpg

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by young noob &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i really dont see how with these mods you think that its that farfetched, seriously man, and also why the hell do you need new valve-train with an itr/ctr cam, its drop-in, and just rev it to the stock rev-limiter, i know tons of people that drop these cams in without new vt, and they have no problems what-so-ever, thats why they pick these cams, hell another 250 bucks gets you a k-teller 2.5 exhaust......, with the mods i listed, its totally possible</TD></TR></TABLE>

But even if you do get the HP, you are [/b]NOT[/b] going to get the torque. Especially not in the low end/midrange.

 

of course your not going to get it in the low-midrange, it would make most of the power up top