i have a 1997 honda prelude with obd1 jdm h22a. everything is obd1 right now. i put a in neptune chipped p28 ecu, and i know p28 dont have secondairies butterfly. on my intake manifold there a secondairies butterly. by disconnecting the air hose, will the secondairies butterfly be open all the time?
it the number 16 i think

 

Yes, unpluged vacum = opened butterflys!

 

^^^ i thought that part (#16) would keep them closed if removed?

 

theyre open at atmospheric pressure, they close with vacuum

 

so why are they closed when you take the IM apart???

 

If I plug the vacuum line on the valve with a reg. P13 ECU .. will this work also?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VtecFreePrelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so why are they closed when you take the IM apart???</TD></TR></TABLE>

ditto

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VtecFreePrelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so why are they closed when you take the IM apart???</TD></TR></TABLE>

They're not closed when you take the IM apart. Here's the IABs sitting on my kitchen floor obviously not plugged in and you can see they are OPEN.



So much miss-information recently....

 

If you left them open at low rpms your going to lose a lot of bottom end power.

 

but my p28 don't even use the secondairy.

 

Either get a p72, or if Hondata, the nitrous control can control the secondaries opening.

 

my P28 chipped Ecu is design for single stage butterfly and it doesn't uses the secondaries, so i think it design to compensate that lost somehow.

 

This will convert your ecu to a P72. You will need to run an extra wire to the IAB's vaccum bypass control solenoid, unless you're using a H22's harness already.

Add:
• Q34 - D1780
• D11 - Clamping Diode
• IC14 - 515 X High Side Switch
• J10 - Jumper
• R142 - 10k resistor
• R143 - 51k resistor
• R144- 10k resistor
• Q17 - A143
• Q26 - C2785
• R107 - 220 ohm resistor
• C94 - 4.7uF tantalum electrolytic capacitor
• R115 - 220 ohm resistor
• R116 - 220 ohm resistor
• J5 - jumper
• J3 - jumper
• J1 - Jumper

Remove:
• R90
• C71
• J4

 

that look so much fun.....is there another way to do it.....HONDATA rite?

 

It can't be designed to make the intake manifold airflow properties change. It can only be bandaided to not run like total crap with the IAB not being used. The IABs are there for a reason use them. Also a P28 can be programmed to use the IABs. My friend has programmed up quite a few and they work fine. P72 and P13 aren't the only ECUs capable of the IAB operation. I have a P06 converted to a P28 basically. It came with the car he will be adding the IAB control and Hondata interface crap soon So I can get the car tuned. I drive on a stock P13 for now though.

 

hey teach me that...how can i program my p28 2 open the secondaries....will it lose a lot of low end and compensate in mid end?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Layziejoe775 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey teach me that...how can i program my p28 2 open the secondaries....will it lose a lot of low end and compensate in mid end? </TD></TR></TABLE>
The p28 will probably have a bit of the stuff I listed, that was a conversion from the P75 (integra LS ecu) to a P72 (gsr ecu). I think it included vtec. Check out http://www.pgmfi.org

 

i found an easier way to keep them open. if thats what u want to do?

1. disconnect the v-hose
2. open the valve with your finger(ot only goes one way)
3. get a rubber/silicone hose plug and put it where the v-hose went
4. take finger off the valve and it should stay open

this worked for me, but it worth a shot

oh btw i did this on a H23 not H22

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92lude-dude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i found an easier way to keep them open. if thats what u want to do?

1. disconnect the v-hose
2. open the valve with your finger(ot only goes one way)
3. get a rubber/silicone hose plug and put it where the v-hose went
4. take finger off the valve and it should stay open

this worked for me, but it worth a shot

oh btw i did this on a H23 not H22</TD></TR></TABLE>
???.. The butterflies are open with no vacuum, he would just need to unhook the vacuum hose if he wanted to keep them open. But we've already established that he doesn't, he just needs to chip his ecu to run them properly.

 

my neptune chipped p28 ecu is single stage butterfly with h22 map and everything for h22. and yeh all u need to do is disconnect the v hose to keep it open. i did it yesterday, felt like the car run better. maybe there was restriction when i left it close and the chipped ecu can't open it.

 

My butterflies have been open since my swap(2 1/2 years) because the little nipple on the black box is broken so I have no where to put the vaccum line. I must say my car seems fine. I have very good throttle response and at 168whp I ran the 1/4 mile at 15.003 which seems pretty decent for my power and weight(about 2800lbs) I will admit that I have never driven another H22 so I cant compare it but people make it seem as if your car will be a dog with out them and I dont beleive this is so.

 

i just took mine out

 

I completely removed my secondaries recently, but I was driving with them stuck open for well over a year. You lose a little bit of low end torque by not using them, but its hardly noticable.

 

you will be fine with them open at low rpm (under 4500)....but having them properly tuned is very nice....

 

i have a stock h22a...where is the that damn vacum hose....is it visble in a bird's eye view.....someone show pic...please....i want to race this DA w/ LS/VTEC....and his 3rd is strong...you think i will win.....?