official post your launching technique thread.
i need to create a new one.
pretty much, hold on the e-brake. hold the clutch right before the grab point at about 2,500 and fluff it out.
(trying to prevent broken parts)
but i'm always looking for better ways
post your launch ways
pretty much, hold on the e-brake. hold the clutch right before the grab point at about 2,500 and fluff it out.
(trying to prevent broken parts)
but i'm always looking for better ways
post your launch ways
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stage-hold the throttle to the floor on the two step-preload clutch-go!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Set the 2-step to the conditions. If your on slicks or drag radials. Track conditions/temp. Amount of rubber laid down at the beginning of track, etc.
Set the 2-step to the conditions. If your on slicks or drag radials. Track conditions/temp. Amount of rubber laid down at the beginning of track, etc.
Quick tips for being a better drag racer.
1) Focus: This is the most important and hardest thing to do when drag racing. STOP thinking about the person/car your racing. It will only make you slower. Focus on what your doing.
2) The burnout: Getting some heat into your tires is huge for traction and yes this includes street tires. The difference with non-drag radial street tires is they benefit from a little heat not a lot like DOT slicks and Race slicks.
How to do your burnout:
Pull up in first gear and put your tires in the water.
Spin them so you only get water on the tires(maybe 1 or 2 revolutions).
You then pull up so your tires are out of the water and put your car in second gear.
Pull e-brake and launch it into a burnout. This will in most cases take all you car has so don't be shy.
With slicks burn them till smoke pours off them and with street tires until you see a little smoke.
Drop your e-brake and ride the burnout for about 10-15 feet then stop.
Do a practice launch before you get to the line to clean off any crap which your tires picked up.
You are now read to launch.
3) Don't worry about how sick your 2step sounds. Simply hooking up a two step will not nessesarily make you quicker. Worry weather it is set to a point which allows you to consistantly pull your quickest short times.
I've never used a 2step in my cars and in most cases can pull equally quick short times.
I recommend actually practice launching your car without the 2step till you find which launch RPM yields you the best short time. Then set your 2step accourdingly.
4) After you launch: Bogging is worse than spinning your tires so don't be affraid of giving it the gas. BUT, keep in mind bouncing off your rev limiter will eat up time also.
When leaving the line you must get your RPM's up in the max power range which with street tires will spin al lot and with slicks will spin less. Not a problem, keep in mind spinning is better than bogging, but to keep off the rev limiter you must back off the throttle just enough to keep your rpm's off the rev limiter till you can get enough MPH to shift into 2nd.
MPH!!!! This is the key to making your 2nd and 3rd gear shifts as beneficial as possible. Without enough MPH you will either bog or you will start spinning the tires so fast that you'll have to back off the throttle even more, making your job even harder.
Judging what is enough MPH to shift unfortunately is a feel thing. Your RPM and Speedo are both blistering due to tire spin, so the only thing you have to judge if your going fast enough is your ***. THIS IS WHY TIP 1) IS SO IMPORTANT.
5) Second gear: In most cases you will get as much tire spin in second as you did in first so treat it as such. Drive it the same way you did in first.
6) By third you should have a grip on things and either pedal the gas that last little bit or hang-on.
I'm sure I missed a few things but I through this together quick, so ask questions if you don't see something here.
posted on importtechonline.com http://s14.invisionfree.com/Im...ic=61
1) Focus: This is the most important and hardest thing to do when drag racing. STOP thinking about the person/car your racing. It will only make you slower. Focus on what your doing.
2) The burnout: Getting some heat into your tires is huge for traction and yes this includes street tires. The difference with non-drag radial street tires is they benefit from a little heat not a lot like DOT slicks and Race slicks.
How to do your burnout:
Pull up in first gear and put your tires in the water.
Spin them so you only get water on the tires(maybe 1 or 2 revolutions).
You then pull up so your tires are out of the water and put your car in second gear.
Pull e-brake and launch it into a burnout. This will in most cases take all you car has so don't be shy.
With slicks burn them till smoke pours off them and with street tires until you see a little smoke.
Drop your e-brake and ride the burnout for about 10-15 feet then stop.
Do a practice launch before you get to the line to clean off any crap which your tires picked up.
You are now read to launch.
3) Don't worry about how sick your 2step sounds. Simply hooking up a two step will not nessesarily make you quicker. Worry weather it is set to a point which allows you to consistantly pull your quickest short times.
I've never used a 2step in my cars and in most cases can pull equally quick short times.
I recommend actually practice launching your car without the 2step till you find which launch RPM yields you the best short time. Then set your 2step accourdingly.
4) After you launch: Bogging is worse than spinning your tires so don't be affraid of giving it the gas. BUT, keep in mind bouncing off your rev limiter will eat up time also.
When leaving the line you must get your RPM's up in the max power range which with street tires will spin al lot and with slicks will spin less. Not a problem, keep in mind spinning is better than bogging, but to keep off the rev limiter you must back off the throttle just enough to keep your rpm's off the rev limiter till you can get enough MPH to shift into 2nd.
MPH!!!! This is the key to making your 2nd and 3rd gear shifts as beneficial as possible. Without enough MPH you will either bog or you will start spinning the tires so fast that you'll have to back off the throttle even more, making your job even harder.
Judging what is enough MPH to shift unfortunately is a feel thing. Your RPM and Speedo are both blistering due to tire spin, so the only thing you have to judge if your going fast enough is your ***. THIS IS WHY TIP 1) IS SO IMPORTANT.
5) Second gear: In most cases you will get as much tire spin in second as you did in first so treat it as such. Drive it the same way you did in first.
6) By third you should have a grip on things and either pedal the gas that last little bit or hang-on.
I'm sure I missed a few things but I through this together quick, so ask questions if you don't see something here.
posted on importtechonline.com http://s14.invisionfree.com/Im...ic=61
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by honda3x23 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i need to create a new one.
pretty much, hold on the e-brake. hold the clutch right before the grab point at about 2,500 and fluff it out.
(trying to prevent broken parts)
but i'm always looking for better ways
post your launch ways
</TD></TR></TABLE>
so is fluffing it out like....ripping a big fart before you leave? i hate farting in the car when wearing a helmet....however it does make you want to get out of the car as fast as possible!!! which could lead to a quicker ET
pretty much, hold on the e-brake. hold the clutch right before the grab point at about 2,500 and fluff it out.
(trying to prevent broken parts)
but i'm always looking for better ways
post your launch ways
</TD></TR></TABLE>
so is fluffing it out like....ripping a big fart before you leave? i hate farting in the car when wearing a helmet....however it does make you want to get out of the car as fast as possible!!! which could lead to a quicker ET
Trending Topics
2nd gear burnout, stage, preload with e-brake, launch off the revlimiter (stupid hondata 2-step never will work right) try not to shift into 2nd gear until i pass the first marker in the middle of the track.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by randys »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2nd gear burnout, stage, preload with e-brake, launch </TD></TR></TABLE>
that pretty much it...except i can't get the hang of the 2gear burnout
that pretty much it...except i can't get the hang of the 2gear burnout
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by red_crx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that pretty much it...except i can't get the hang of the 2gear burnout
</TD></TR></TABLE>
dont be afraid to rev it high and hold it there
</TD></TR></TABLE>dont be afraid to rev it high and hold it there
My only question is about the release of the clutch. I tend to just dump it like I'm trying to knee myself in the chest. It's gotta be more beneficial on the axles to quickly ease off of it instead of what I do, but is one way or the other more correct/beneficial? (quick ease or dump?)
a dump is definitely hard on the motor mounts/supension. The perfect is to slip the clutch as hard as possilbe while holding the rpms in the powerband until the wheels and the engine match speed, then you can fully realease.
farmington? you country boy.. http://www.mnsportcompacts.net
thanks for all the responses, how much do 2 steps cost
thanks for all the responses, how much do 2 steps cost
is there any way to use the button on the e break for a 2step button. you guys pull it up and hold the button in then drop it . or is there a way to use it like a staging break handle. just pull it and the when your ready to go drop it......
The way I have my 2 step setup is on the handbrake switch. When I pull up the handbrake it activates my 2 step. I also have one of those drift buttons so you dont have to hold onto the handbrake button. You just drop the handle when you launch. Im probably gonna try to use the Neptune 2 step in the future though.
i took out the button on my e brake and replaced it with the 2 step button...then modified my e brake so when you pull it up it doesn't lock. I pre stage pull the e brake preload the tranny, get the revs up to about 5, hop into the next lights, if i play it right i will stage last so im instantly on the 2 step preloaded and ready, drop the clutch and e brake and the rest is cake.
see...i use the e-brake light switch to activate my 2 step...if the lights on...the two step is working...i do my 2nd gear burn out, pre-stage...bring the rpms up a lil bit stage, pre load, stage...step, and go...my step at battle was a little low...so i was only pulling a 1.8 60' the car bogged coming outta the hole, but now i upped my step to about 8k, and me and david made the msd step build boost...so i think the next time out i should be able to pull better.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rusty Shackleferd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i took out the button on my e brake and replaced it with the 2 step button...then modified my e brake so when you pull it up it doesn't lock. </TD></TR></TABLE> can you post some pictures of that set up, it sounds like it's the way to go
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by red_crx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
that pretty much it...except i can't get the hang of the 2gear burnout
</TD></TR></TABLE>
forget the 2nd gear burnout......Do a 5th gear burnout
that pretty much it...except i can't get the hang of the 2gear burnout
</TD></TR></TABLE>forget the 2nd gear burnout......Do a 5th gear burnout


