ram manifolds --steps you take???
When I made my first manifold I got the info from: http://www.sdsefi.com/techheader.htm
You can subsitute the Sch40 for Sch 10 SS. It's lighter! Good luck!
You can subsitute the Sch40 for Sch 10 SS. It's lighter! Good luck!
The bandwagons these days are just nuts. Soon we'll have 15 year olds without licenses wanting to build 4-second fuel cars with no experience.
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HybridKOOP »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The bandwagons these days are just nuts. Soon we'll have 15 year olds without licenses wanting to build 4-second fuel cars with no experience.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Gotta start somplace. earliar the better
Gotta start somplace. earliar the better
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HybridKOOP »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The bandwagons these days are just nuts. Soon we'll have 15 year olds without licenses wanting to build 4-second fuel cars with no experience.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hehee
hehee
Last edited by BEEYOND; Sep 3, 2010 at 12:42 PM.
actually if you are really onefab.... after looking at your work you are pretty good... what i can tell you is that w/o a doubt our work is just as good as yours i'm not going to brag and say we are the ****.....but just to let you know we aren't your 15yr old beginners...
keep on checking out: http://www.beeyondeng.com there i'll post our fabing section.
keep on checking out: http://www.beeyondeng.com there i'll post our fabing section.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lsvtecpower »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
dude stfu... we've done enough fabing, turbo kits etc etc.. to know just as much or more then most of the top guys in here... just that i wanted to see what steps others have used. some of you fuken honda-tech people are trolls. don't just assume...instead share your experience...isn't that what h-t is all about...
BTW i'll post some pixs later... we aren't the best, but we are definitely not ghetto......
</TD></TR></TABLE>
AMEN! Brother.
dude stfu... we've done enough fabing, turbo kits etc etc.. to know just as much or more then most of the top guys in here... just that i wanted to see what steps others have used. some of you fuken honda-tech people are trolls. don't just assume...instead share your experience...isn't that what h-t is all about...
BTW i'll post some pixs later... we aren't the best, but we are definitely not ghetto......
</TD></TR></TABLE>
AMEN! Brother.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lsvtecpower »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude stfu... we've done enough fabing, turbo kits etc etc.. to know just as much or more then most of the top guys in here... just that i wanted to see what steps others have used. some of you fuken honda-tech people are trolls. don't just assume...instead share your experience...isn't that what h-t is all about...
BTW i'll post some pixs later... we aren't the best, but we are definitely not ghetto......
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Amen +1
BTW i'll post some pixs later... we aren't the best, but we are definitely not ghetto......
</TD></TR></TABLE>Amen +1
I haven't actually made a ramhorn yet, but I have developed a process plan. Let me know if this makes sense.
1) Using my SolidWorks measurements, mark and cut all the pieces that are required. 8 90° require no cutting, then I need 2 60° and 2 45° bends, a couple short straight pieces, and the straight pieces that come together on the collector. Bevel all edges.
2) Tack weld the collector together from the 4 pieces.
3) Mock all the pieces of the primaries together with masking tape until they are all right. Then remove tape and tack them all together. This includes tacking to the collector, but not the head flange.
4) Break the tacks on the collector and there are now 4 runners, each with a piece of the collector.
5) Wrap, backpurge, weld. Multiple passes to keep the heat down and avoid warpage as much as possible.
6) After cooling, reassemble the 4 primaries. They probably won't fit quite right. Massage the primaries with heat and a prybar until they do.
7) Weld primaries to the head flange.
8) Clamp the collector together and weld the 4 outer welds.
9) Unclamp and weld the 4 internal welds.
10) Weld on the turbo flange.
11) Drill hole for wastegate
12) Weld on wastegate tube and flange.
13) Normalize the assembly in a furnace... If you have one.
14) Resurface flanges.
Modified by beepy at 6:49 PM 1/30/2006
1) Using my SolidWorks measurements, mark and cut all the pieces that are required. 8 90° require no cutting, then I need 2 60° and 2 45° bends, a couple short straight pieces, and the straight pieces that come together on the collector. Bevel all edges.
2) Tack weld the collector together from the 4 pieces.
3) Mock all the pieces of the primaries together with masking tape until they are all right. Then remove tape and tack them all together. This includes tacking to the collector, but not the head flange.
4) Break the tacks on the collector and there are now 4 runners, each with a piece of the collector.
5) Wrap, backpurge, weld. Multiple passes to keep the heat down and avoid warpage as much as possible.
6) After cooling, reassemble the 4 primaries. They probably won't fit quite right. Massage the primaries with heat and a prybar until they do.
7) Weld primaries to the head flange.
8) Clamp the collector together and weld the 4 outer welds.
9) Unclamp and weld the 4 internal welds.
10) Weld on the turbo flange.
11) Drill hole for wastegate
12) Weld on wastegate tube and flange.
13) Normalize the assembly in a furnace... If you have one.
14) Resurface flanges.
Modified by beepy at 6:49 PM 1/30/2006
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beepy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I haven't actually made a ramhorn yet, but I have developed a process plan. Let me know if this makes sense.
1) Using my SolidWorks measurements, mark and cut all the pieces that are required. 8 90° require no cutting, then I need 2 60° and 2 45° bends, a couple short straight pieces, and the straight pieces that come together on the collector. Bevel all edges.
2) Tack weld the collector together from the 4 pieces.
3) Mock all the pieces of the primaries together with masking tape until they are all right. Then remove tape and tack them all together. This includes tacking to the collector, but not the head flange.
4) Break the tacks on the collector and there are now 4 runners, each with a piece of the collector.
5) Wrap, backpurge, weld. Multiple passes to keep the heat down and avoid warpage as much as possible.
6) After cooling, reassemble the 4 primaries. They probably won't fit quite right. Massage the primaries with heat and a prybar until they do.
7) Weld primaries to the head flange.
8) Clamp the collector together and weld the 4 outer welds.
9) Unclamp and weld the 4 internal welds.
10) Weld on the turbo flange.
11) Drill hole for wastegate
12) Weld on wastegate tube and flange.
13) Normalize the assembly in a furnace... If you have one.
14) Resurface flanges.
Modified by beepy at 6:49 PM 1/30/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>
I see what you mean by using the pry bar to fix the runners, but I was wondering if there is another way instead of prying. Another thing is I want to try to avoid not resurfacing the flanges... I know many do, but I want to try not warping the flanges so much... The step LUV fab uses is interesting though!!!
most don't cut there flanges like they do...hummmmhmmm
1) Using my SolidWorks measurements, mark and cut all the pieces that are required. 8 90° require no cutting, then I need 2 60° and 2 45° bends, a couple short straight pieces, and the straight pieces that come together on the collector. Bevel all edges.
2) Tack weld the collector together from the 4 pieces.
3) Mock all the pieces of the primaries together with masking tape until they are all right. Then remove tape and tack them all together. This includes tacking to the collector, but not the head flange.
4) Break the tacks on the collector and there are now 4 runners, each with a piece of the collector.
5) Wrap, backpurge, weld. Multiple passes to keep the heat down and avoid warpage as much as possible.
6) After cooling, reassemble the 4 primaries. They probably won't fit quite right. Massage the primaries with heat and a prybar until they do.
7) Weld primaries to the head flange.
8) Clamp the collector together and weld the 4 outer welds.
9) Unclamp and weld the 4 internal welds.
10) Weld on the turbo flange.
11) Drill hole for wastegate
12) Weld on wastegate tube and flange.
13) Normalize the assembly in a furnace... If you have one.
14) Resurface flanges.
Modified by beepy at 6:49 PM 1/30/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>
I see what you mean by using the pry bar to fix the runners, but I was wondering if there is another way instead of prying. Another thing is I want to try to avoid not resurfacing the flanges... I know many do, but I want to try not warping the flanges so much... The step LUV fab uses is interesting though!!!
most don't cut there flanges like they do...hummmmhmmm
Try as I might, I have never been able to make a manifold without warping the flange a little bit. A hundreth of an inch is enough to create sealing issues with a metal gasket.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
DomesticDisturbance
Acura TL, RL & ZDX
44
Mar 25, 2005 06:54 PM
People_Mover
Road Racing / Autocross & Time Attack
11
Jan 23, 2004 05:56 PM



