well i've been reading up on grey's endlinks from 7thgencivic.com and the hotchkis endlinks as well. and i pretty much have it figured out all the parts you'd need to custom make your own. so i ordered some parts and hopefully within a wekk or so i'll make a DIY for everybody that wants to get rid of those crappy endlinks for your civic's and rsx's.

finally here's some pics of my endinks




here's all that i needed to build my endlinks
you need 2 male ball joint ends and 2 female ball joint ends those are the middle sections screwed together, their mostly used on go-karts so if you have a local go-cart store around they should have something like them but i had to order mine off a site
link for the male sections http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/en...=1086
link for the female sectionshttp://www.mcmaster.com/nav/en...=1086
the rest is basic stuff you can find at any hardware store
4 3/8 bolts grade 8
8 3/8 washers
4 3/8 lock washers
6 3/8 nuts
and some bushings, you can use the energy suspension sway bar link bushings they come in 3/8 i just had some laying around my work.


Modified by mrDFWmechanic at 7:15 AM 1/29/2006


Modified by mrDFWmechanic at 7:15 AM 1/29/2006


Modified by mrDFWmechanic at 7:17 AM 1/29/2006


Modified by mrDFWmechanic at 7:17 AM 1/29/2006


Modified by mrDFWmechanic at 7:17 AM 1/29/2006

 

NIce,....looking forward for the DIY.

 

 

alright so i got all the parts figured out

the 2 main pieces in the middle of the end link " ball joint rod ends " they are called i couldn't find those at lowes. home depot, ace hardware so i had to order them online from http://www.mcmaster.com had to order 2 male and 2 female ends, that was 20 bucks shipped. the rest of the parts are basic and you can get them at any hardware store lock washers, flat washers and 4 bolts. total cost of all this is around 35 bucks. i used 3/8's everything so it was really easy to find. hopefully next week i'll get my ball joint rod ends and i'll put everything together and see how it works

 

those look like hotchkis links! =D

 

Wow I am very interested. Looking forward to the DIY.

 

here's what the older version of the hotchkis endlinks look like

here's what their newest version looks like a little better in design but still not worth the 150 pricetag

 

I have OEM ones on a 25 mm mugen bar and never had a problem.

 

old ones suck.. lol well i mean as long as urs isnt broken u'll be alright.. but everyone i know with progress (not sure how many mm) but everyone snaps the stockies.. def should look into upgrading i must say tho, the hotchkis ones are hellla $$$ but real solid and dont think theyre gonna be breakin netime soon..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aznbeayst &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i must say tho, the hotchkis ones are hellla $$$ but real solid and dont think theyre gonna be breakin netime soon.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I also like how they're sealed, unlike Grey's and the older Hotchkis links. I'm pretty close to getting a set for myself.

 

im about to bolt up my 22mm DC5 rear sway and put the carbing tie bar on and i've already had to replace both sides with the 19mm rsx rear bar. so i'm gonna do it all at once,

 

hopefully before sat i'll get my ball joint ends and i can put my endlinks to the test

 

HOW DOES THIS WORK AND WHAT WILL IT IMPROVE?

 

looks good!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 05ex_vic_blk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">HOW DOES THIS WORK AND WHAT WILL IT IMPROVE? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Before you spend money on mods, you'd better know what they're going to do. So:

Get on the ground by your rear bumper and look at the sway bar (it's held in place by two brackets bolted to the chassis). Now follow the bar out to one of its ends and look at the little stick-barbell-like thing that links the end of the bar to the lower suspension arm.

That little thing is a sway bar endlink.

Now look at how mrDFWmechanic's custom endlinks are built a lot heavier.

If you put on a thicker sway bar, you might run the risk of breaking one of those stock endlinks (or if you damage it during installation, too). If you replace the stock links with heavy duty endlinks, you almost certainly won't break them.

 

pics have been loaded and the parts list as well hope this helps everybody out

 

where i can get that black bushing....also, how much did you spend on this DIY part ?...i want to built a set too....if not too costly

TKs for the DIY and your time !

 

the black bushing is a wiper motor bushing i got from my work ( autozone ) energy suspension has a sway bar bushings thats are 3/8 that would work just any kind of tough bushing. total cost of this project i wanna say is around 35 bucks.

 

so did you install them yet....any review pls.
can i buy that black bushing from autozone?

 

yup i have them installed and no problems yet. the black bushing are wiper motor bushings in the help section.

 

Just wondering why you didn't use metric? Cost?

 

Those are the Hotckis ones.

Look good. I hope all the tolerances work out. Make sure to use some heavy duty silicon on those

 

can you expalin why i would need some silicone ?

 

Im buyin em

 

Instead of looking for bushings I got this, and 'customized' it to work for our swaybars...

I got 2 inches of it, and im just going to cut to fit what i need.. only 6.20.


Part Number: 9697K55 $6.20 Each
Form
Tubes

Backing
Plain Back

Material
Polyurethane

Polyurethane Material Type
Polyurethane

Durometer Range
Extra Hard

Foam Firmness Rating
Not Rated

Tensile Strength Range
6,001 to 7,000 psi

Actual Tensile Strength
6,500 psi

Shore A
95

Length
2"

Length Tolerance
±.062"

Inside Diameter
3/8"

Inside Diameter Tolerance
± .010"

Outside Diameter
1"

Outside Diameter Tolerance
± .020"

Lowest Operating Temperature
-99° to -1° F

Highest Operating Temperature
+100° to +200° F

Actual Operating Temperature Range
-40° to +180° F

Specifications Met
Not Rated

Color
Black