I know few people are running aem and fjo. Is there any other ones available.

Is there a way to run big injectors without running injector driver. I really dont want to spend around $300 for injector driver if I dont have to. I will be using Neptune.

 

Run a resistor box.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Arturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Run a resistor box.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I will be running resistor box. From what I hear is that u have to use injector driver to idle 1600cc injectors properly.

 

You can idle 1600cc injectors..

 

Sweet, I dont have to spend extra money.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Arturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can idle 1600cc injectors.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup.

 

But a resistor box will help alot. Trying to run a peak and hold injector at a very small pulsewidth on a saturated inj. driver with a resistor is not exactly the "right" way to do it...

Edit: Injector driver, not resistor box.


Modified by tony1 at 10:56 PM 1/21/2006

 

injector driver you mean, right?

 

lol, yeah, injector driver...

 

Tony, you are confusing me.

I can idle 1600cc with just honda resistor box. I dont need injector driver.

 

Get the inj. driver if you want a good idle, it really makes a difference with an injector that big. You can idle w/o it, but nowhere near as smooth. Throttle response and idle will be much better with the inj. driver.

 

I saw fjo one for about $275, is there any other for cheaper.

 

Sounds like a pretty good price, and FJO makes good quality stuff.

 

I wish I didnt have to spend that money. I might just go down to 1000cc for now

My car idled perfect with 1000cc before

 

how much power are you trying to make?

 

i'm running the aem injector driver with precision 1600. idles and drives like stock

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much power are you trying to make?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I probably settle for 700whp+

I have GT42R

my setup should be good for anything I throw at it. I want to stop when Jeff Evans says thats enough.

B20vtec cp 9:0:1
Manley rods
Gsr built head
custom intake manifold w/velocity stacks
precision 1600cc injectors
arp mains, head
CTR cams
PMS T4 top mount turbo manifold
H1C Holset turbo (till I can get my money back for GT42R from DHL)
precision 750 IC

B16 trans
OBX lsd
twin disk competion clutch

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbocivic94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I saw fjo one for about $275, is there any other for cheaper.</TD></TR></TABLE>


i found this FJO one for $113. is this the right one?

http://www.alamomotorsports.com/FJO/injdrvr.htm

anyone know if this will work with RC1600CC injectors and K-Pro?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbocivic94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I probably settle for 700whp+

I have GT42R

my setup should be good for anything I throw at it. I want to stop when Jeff Evans says thats enough.

B20vtec cp 9:0:1
Manley rods
Gsr built head
custom intake manifold w/velocity stacks
precision 1600cc injectors
arp mains, head
CTR cams
PMS T4 top mount turbo manifold
H1C Holset turbo (till I can get my money back for GT42R from DHL)
precision 750 IC

B16 trans
OBX lsd
twin disk competion clutch</TD></TR></TABLE>


Settle? LOL aiming a little low at 700whp are ya? haha

 

Is this a race car/ T4 car?

To me 700 HP in the street is usless you must spin 1ST through 5th

 

At what point do you have to run injector driver vs just inline resistors/ resistor box with peak and hold injectors?

I've got two cars running 750cc and 780cc injectors respectively without issue... the 750cc is saturated and idles ok, and the 780cc is peak and hold + inline resistors. Idles ok as well.....

Am I missing/ misunderstanding something?

 

You never HAVE to, it's just a matter of how smooth you want the car to run. When you get to a very big injector, the opening time at idle is usually very close to 1ms. The more accurately your computer can control the injector, the better it'll idle and the smoother it'll run. A saturated driver with a resistor doesn't open the inj. as fast as a peak and hold driver.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurBoTeG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Settle? LOL aiming a little low at 700whp are ya? haha </TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont want to have high hopes and not come close. I guess its gonna depend on Jeff Evans as where he feels comfortable. At this point I really dont car what kind of power I make.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by haveaNOSday &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is this a race car/ T4 car?

To me 700 HP in the street is usless you must spin 1ST through 5th </TD></TR></TABLE>

Built for SFWD class but wont be able to attend many races. It wont see that much boost on streets. I just want to have a car that I can enjoy driving and have enough power to run low 10's or high 9's.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedK20a2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i found this FJO one for $113. is this the right one?

http://www.alamomotorsports.com/FJO/injdrvr.htm

anyone know if this will work with RC1600CC injectors and K-Pro? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I just ordered one. Thanks for info

 

Good information.

So if you buy the driver is it used in conjuction with a resistor box???