anyone kno how to bleed the brakes? i think i kno how to do it but im not sure. anyone care to help?

 

http://members.troublecodes.ne...d.jpg This link is the order to bleed the brakes, I don't recomend bleeding by way of using the pedal, because you can push the brake master cylinder plunger into old crud at the end of it's travel. Vacum bleed is better, if you don't have a vacuum pump You can use a big syringe from the farmers supply house and some tubing to fit between the syringe and the bleeder screw. get the syringe and tubing hooked up, break open the bleeder screw and start pulling the syringe, repeat as needed until you see fresh fluid coming out. Keep an eye on the master cylinder reservoir, you don't want it to get empty. A good idea is to suck out the old fluid from the Master cylinder reservoir and refill it before going to bleed the at the wheels.

 

1.Make sure the brake fluid level in the reservoir is at the Max (upper) level line.
2.Attach a length of clear drain tube to the bleed screw.
3.Have someone slowly pump the brake pedal several times, then apply steady pressure.
4.Starting at the left-front, loosen the brake bleed screw to allow air to escape from the system. Then tighten the bleed screw securely.
5. Repeat the procedure for each wheel in the sequence shown following until air bubbles no longer appear in the fluid.


Sequence: Front driver-side-----front passenger-------rear passenger------rear driver-side.


Yes vacuum pump is easier, but not too many people have one. They usually have trouble finding a hose that fits tight enough that it won't fly off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLKFLSH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1.Make sure the brake fluid level in the reservoir is at the Max (upper) level line.
2.Attach a length of clear drain tube to the bleed screw.
3.Have someone slowly pump the brake pedal several times, then apply steady pressure.
4.Starting at the left-front, loosen the brake bleed screw to allow air to escape from the system. Then tighten the bleed screw securely.
5. Repeat the procedure for each wheel in the sequence shown following until air bubbles no longer appear in the fluid.


Sequence: Front driver-side-----front passenger-------rear passenger------rear driver-side.


Yes vacuum pump is easier, but not too many people have one. They usually have trouble finding a hose that fits tight enough that it won't fly off.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

you forgot couple of importand steps

-you need to take off the cap while do the bleed

-the tubing end must be under brake fuild all the time

-bleed the brake again after 2-3 days of driving

 

y bleed it again?

 

Mostly not necessary. You should take the cap off, though. Thought that would happen anyway, so you can make sure you don't get the fluid too low. And the tube does not have to be in fluid as long as the bleed bolt is tightened before the brake pedal is released. Unscrew the bleed bolt just long enough to let the fluid out, then tighten it right back up. You need to keep the wrench positioned so that you can loosen, then tighten, without haveing to reattach the wrench using the box end of the wrench (so it works like a valve, in one motion). I hope you understand all this rambling. Happy Hondaing

 

If the brake fluid looks dirty, or if you know it is old fluid. You should suck the old fluid out of the master cylinder (as much as you can) then replace with new fluid before you start bleeding the brakes. Then bleed until nothing but clean fluid comes out, with no bubbles. Damn 7head. making me do all this typing.

 

Yep basically they told you how just make sure while you have the bleeder vavle open the person on the brake pedal doesn't let off until you have tightened the vavle back. Also make sure you keep plenty of fluid in the resivor. I have a vaccum bleader and can't say I like it. I've never had much luck with it. I bled them on my truck for 20 min or so and still had air coming through with in 5 minutes of having someone pump the pedal I had it working great.

 

thanks for the info. hopefully i dont get confused...........lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by asianalbutt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">y bleed it again?</TD></TR></TABLE>

sometime(esp. if you doing a complete flush), you cannot get the last few bubble out no matter how many quart you bleed out.

most shop would never do it but if you care enought to work on your own brake, please do it just for the peace of mind.(if you really lazy, just test the front driver side, if it's good, it's good)

not sure for your case but there's alot of people that never change their brake fluid, all the dirt and water is only killing the wheel cylinder and caliper.

 

yeah, make sure some one is jambing the Master cylinder piston and seals up into the crud at the end of it's bore; tell them to push real hard to do as much damage as possible, so you can replace the master next week.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by asianalbutt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the info. hopefully i dont get confused...........lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
FYI if you asked "where does the sun rise" on this web site, you'd wind up confused. remember 1/2 the people an this site are 16 years old on daddys computer, and saw a tire changed once. But they will jump in with their "expert" advice on any matter.