Removing stock "vapor shield" sealant/adhesive?
I've broken down and decided to dynamat my doors - I hope I can still hit 13s. Anyway, is there any way to get all that white sealant/adhesive/clay-like material that holds the clear/plastic vapor seal off?
I can get alot of it off, but it likes to leave alot of residue + bits & pieces of it. Is there any product out there that breaks this stuff down?
I can get alot of it off, but it likes to leave alot of residue + bits & pieces of it. Is there any product out there that breaks this stuff down?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C_EJ8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you're dynamatting, why are you concerned with getting the adhesive off? It's not like the dynamat won't stick to it... </TD></TR></TABLE>
That's what my friend told me yesterday... it's the fact that it's still there when it doesn't need to be.
That's what my friend told me yesterday... it's the fact that it's still there when it doesn't need to be.
Well, since it seems that you're hell bent on wasting time to accomplish nothing productive, get yourself some Oops or Goo Gone (or any other adhesive-removing solvent) and a scraper and have at it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C_EJ8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, since it seems that you're hell bent on wasting time to accomplish nothing productive, get yourself some Oops or Goo Gone (or any other adhesive-removing solvent) and a scraper and have at it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm sorry, I'm a bit ****.
I'm sorry, I'm a bit ****.
I actually just finished getting all of that goo off the doors of my type R, so i could lay down a bit of dynamat.
I hate that goo crap it gets stuck to your skin and doesn't come off for days.
Anyways what i did was get a can of degreaser and a rag, spray the rag and wipe off the goo, takes some rubbing but this is whatt worked the best for me simple green did ok too, but not as well as the degreaser.
God damn it took me a few hours but i got it done, now one of my doors is almost set up, just gotta do the other one.
I hate that goo crap it gets stuck to your skin and doesn't come off for days.
Anyways what i did was get a can of degreaser and a rag, spray the rag and wipe off the goo, takes some rubbing but this is whatt worked the best for me simple green did ok too, but not as well as the degreaser.
God damn it took me a few hours but i got it done, now one of my doors is almost set up, just gotta do the other one.
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doubt ud have the same stuff as me as im in australia, but i just used regular engine degreaser that comes in a can.
Don't spray it on the paintwork as it will take off some paint, but when u use the rag its not that noticable.
BTW it is reccomended to have a clean surface before you dynamat, I only did half the doors, figured id try that before i did the whole thing.
Don't spray it on the paintwork as it will take off some paint, but when u use the rag its not that noticable.
BTW it is reccomended to have a clean surface before you dynamat, I only did half the doors, figured id try that before i did the whole thing.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kavehman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BTW it is reccomended to have a clean surface before you dynamat, I only did half the doors, figured id try that before i did the whole thing.</TD></TR></TABLE> Do the whole thing, although the Dynamat will stick to the glue, the reason they want you to clean the surface is, 1 it sticks better and 2 Dynamate is less effective if its' not in contact with the metal.
If you think cleaning the glue off is a pain, [we just use Acrisol or Sol-x or any body paint prep cleaner] if you want the Dynamat to be it's most effective, it has to go on as one sheet, have as few holes as possible, [no holes is impossible, door lock/latch linkage has to move freely] air bubbles are not your friend, [if you end up with any, "pop" them] remove anything that you can, [screws/brackets any plastic retainer clips] and reinstall after Dynamat is applied.
The trick is to make it as airtight as possible, DO NOT PLUG DRAIN HOLES.
A heat gun is your friend, do not overhear, Dynamat only has to be very warm to work into and around any corner, dip or curve.
94
If you think cleaning the glue off is a pain, [we just use Acrisol or Sol-x or any body paint prep cleaner] if you want the Dynamat to be it's most effective, it has to go on as one sheet, have as few holes as possible, [no holes is impossible, door lock/latch linkage has to move freely] air bubbles are not your friend, [if you end up with any, "pop" them] remove anything that you can, [screws/brackets any plastic retainer clips] and reinstall after Dynamat is applied.
The trick is to make it as airtight as possible, DO NOT PLUG DRAIN HOLES.
A heat gun is your friend, do not overhear, Dynamat only has to be very warm to work into and around any corner, dip or curve.
94
great info. I decided to go with raam mat... basically the same as dynamat. I will definitely have to get some engine degreaser or that body prep stuff and goto town... hopefully if it warms up a bit here in the northeast.
wd40 is your friend,when your done try windex as a final clean up ,make sure the panel you are doing is dry,with no oils or solvents as these will cause the sound deadening not to stick,wd40 wont harm the paint,
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Takumi Fujiwara »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">great info. I decided to go with raam mat... basically the same as dynamat. I will definitely have to get some engine degreaser or that body prep stuff and goto town... hopefully if it warms up a bit here in the northeast.</TD></TR></TABLE>
In case you did'nt know it is NOT the same as dynamat !!
You will end up using 2-3x the amount of material to achieve a similar
level of sound deadening. I have sound deadened many customers cars
with similar materials that were supposed to be like dynamat but were lots
cheaper...Its true..You get what you pay for.
In case you did'nt know it is NOT the same as dynamat !!
You will end up using 2-3x the amount of material to achieve a similar
level of sound deadening. I have sound deadened many customers cars
with similar materials that were supposed to be like dynamat but were lots
cheaper...Its true..You get what you pay for.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by audioroach »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
In case you did'nt know it is NOT the same as dynamat !!
You will end up using 2-3x the amount of material to achieve a similar
level of sound deadening. I have sound deadened many customers cars
with similar materials that were supposed to be like dynamat but were lots
cheaper...Its true..You get what you pay for.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm not looking to win sound-offs... I bought more than I need so I'll add little by little and see what happens. Thanks for the input though.
In case you did'nt know it is NOT the same as dynamat !!
You will end up using 2-3x the amount of material to achieve a similar
level of sound deadening. I have sound deadened many customers cars
with similar materials that were supposed to be like dynamat but were lots
cheaper...Its true..You get what you pay for.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm not looking to win sound-offs... I bought more than I need so I'll add little by little and see what happens. Thanks for the input though.
thanks man.., to do the door skin i just took out the window and speakers. i cut the mat into 12inx12in squares and just rolled it in there. pretty easy and it made one hell of a difference. the door seems so much more sturdy. ill post pics of the inside when i get home tonight.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by imola-red dc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks man.., to do the door skin i just took out the window and speakers. i cut the mat into 12inx12in squares and just rolled it in there. pretty easy and it made one hell of a difference. the door seems so much more sturdy. ill post pics of the inside when i get home tonight.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I noticed my door is rattling somewhere inside (I have the door panels and speaker out of te door). Looks like it's a good time to pull the window out and copy you
Definitely put up some pics when you're done... I'm inspired.
I noticed my door is rattling somewhere inside (I have the door panels and speaker out of te door). Looks like it's a good time to pull the window out and copy you
Definitely put up some pics when you're done... I'm inspired.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CashmoneyUKR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How much did all the dynamat stuff weight</TD></TR></TABLE>
My whole roll, 62.5 Sq. ft. is 25lbs.
My whole roll, 62.5 Sq. ft. is 25lbs.
i used about 80 sq ft for my integra. i ripped off the old stuff and added the new stuff, so i really added a add. 18lbs over the stock stuff.





