<u>Parts:</u>
1 Ziptie
Random short 12mm bolt
Pepboys Battery Box - $10
Pepboys Battery Terminals - $8 ($4 apeice)
Pepboys 19" ground cable - $4
0 Gauge Power Wire - $2.55 a foot...i didnt measure, but 15ft should about cover it
0 Guage Ground Wire - $2.55 a foot...you only need about 4 feet
The best bet on the above stuff is to get an amp wiring kit, that way the ground will have a bolt down terminal on it already. The kit would probably be cheaper...i like 0 guage though
3 way 0/1 guage distribution block - $11 shipped
you will need either an old power cable or make your own stuff, but you need a 12" wire to go from the dist block to the fusebox, and then one to go over to the starter, i used old oem stuff. If you need to, you can use the ones off of your current power wiring, but i dont reccomend hacking these up until you have something that will work for sure.


<u>Tools:</u>
Volt/Ohmmeter
8,10,12mm Sockets
Drill
Wire brush bit, and bits to drill in the battery box to the trunk floor
Philips Head Screwdriver
Wire Hanger and electrical tape
Optional
Dremel or razor

Then drill in the box, i like to center the holes on the raised parts of the metal, and then use the self tapping screws that come with the box to secure it down.

Take the wire brush bit and grind the paint off the top of the spare tire mount thing, or you could go up on the shock tower, but i like the spare tire thing better, use the 12mm bolt to secure the ground on there.

Run the power wire through the hole behind the passenger side rear seat, fold it down to get it back there, then run it as well as you can through the side panel.

Then under the kickpanel, and up behind the blower motor. Go under the hood and take the fusebox out, underneath it, all the way right, there is a hole with a rubber plug in it, run the power wire out through there, use the hanger and tape to help get it through if you need.

Take out the battery tray and the support for it, then ziptie the coolant overflow to hold it up. Take the power wire out from the fusebox, and off the starter, and off the bracket on the transmission. Also take the ground cable off of the trans bracket, and off of the radiator support. Put the pepboys ground cable from the rad support to the trans. Screw the power wire into the distribution block, then screw in the starter wire and fusebox wire to it, and run them to their respective locations. Put the fusebox back in.

Then get out your ohmmeter and make sure the power cable isnt shorted out to a ground anywhere, then hook up the terminals and all and crank it up.

<u>Optional Part:</u>
As inspired by @ries, i wanted to run the power and ground wires into the fusebox from behind, so now there are no wires at all visible from the front.



Dremel out the plastic behind the power and ground wire terminals so the wires can come in from behind, then dremel the cover out so you can run the wires in from the back. I taped heavily between the two terminals bc they were very close and i didnt want any arcing.



ps yes i know its dirty as **** in there....

-Matt

oh and i didnt think i needed to take pics of the easy/obvious stuff...so the rest is up to your imagination.


Modified by mgags7 at 12:23 AM 12/14/2005

 

Or get one from summitracing.com for 1/2 the price

http://store.summitracing.com/...h.asp

 

that works....i bought my car after it was robbed of a previous SuBZ system so the cables werent a part of my cost...i spent 30 bucks...

 

is this for weight distribution or for room in the engine bay?

for room in the engine bay, i just took out the old battery mount and made my own that dropped a stock integra battery down about 2 feet from where it was.. so it sits behind the radiator infront of the tranny. fits good and made room

always good to see a write up or 2 around, in my opinion this stuff is a no brainer but i guess some people need their hands held

 

just remember that those cheap non sealed and non externally vented boxes are not NHRA legal if you are racing at a drag strip that uses those rules.

 

Does it matter I thought as long as it wasnt in the passenger compartment it doesnt need a box?

I think it just needs to be secured down.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kulrevon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does it matter I thought as long as it wasnt in the passenger compartment it doesnt need a box?

I think it just needs to be secured down.</TD></TR></TABLE>

it does matter because the trunk is sealed from external enviorment but the prelude has folding seats and the seats are only made of foam.. and fuems and vapor from the battery will enter the passanger compartment becuase the trunk is not sealed off from the passanger compartment, hell it is practically part of the passenger compartment because it is inside the enviormentally sealled part of the car, ie no water/ snow allowed in.

 

basically you would need a rear firewall for it to be considered NHRA legal.

 

prelittle lude, u got a picture of that?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelittlelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is this for weight distribution or for room in the engine bay?

for room in the engine bay, i just took out the old battery mount and made my own that dropped a stock integra battery down about 2 feet from where it was.. so it sits behind the radiator infront of the tranny. fits good and made room

always good to see a write up or 2 around, in my opinion this stuff is a no brainer but i guess some people need their hands held</TD></TR></TABLE>

pics?

 

Nice write up Matt, now if I could just get off my lazy A$$ and do mine....

 

Think this will be my next project. Great info -
never really thought about relocating the battery.

added to favorite pages.

 

Good Writeup.


Would it make a big difference if I used 4 gauge opposed to the 0 gauge wires you used?

 

So, what did you do for a starter cable?

 

For a starter cable, i used an old oem one, just cut if off where it connected to the positive.

I probably will get that moroso box after a little while though, I looked at it last night and i like it. I will be much better secured to the metal than this one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93h22a1vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">prelittle lude, u got a picture of that?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

pics?</TD></TR></TABLE>

ehh , sorry guys. basically i took out the stock batery tray and the support that bolts to the frame rail. i then got 2 L brackets and drilled holes in them and bolted them in place on the frame rail. The stock cables reach just fine and everything. and i used and integra battery cuz its smaller and fit nice in there.

 

that's a pretty good idea.. why hasn't anyone else thought of that?

I may use that idea instead of mounting my battery in the trunk since i'm probably making two custom fiberglassed boxes in the corners behind the tail lights (where I planned on putting the battery box.). no room anywhere else because of teh full-size spare

 

toms idea a nice idea if youre just moving it for space...but i like the security and weight distribution advantages of moving that giant hunk of redox reaction to the back....