In regards to this post -> https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1441922

I will be doing a non-biased test to determine what synthetic motor oil performs the best. We have an in-house Mustang MD-250-P chassis dynamometer that I will be using to dyno a 2002 Honda Civic Ex (mine). I dyno'd the car a year ago with 30,000 less miles at 85 whp (automatic) with regular motor oil.

I will first be doing a pull with used (5,000 miles) Mobil 1 synthetic to get a baseline. Every test will be done with a new filter [preferbly stock Honda filters(anyone work at Honda? ] when IAT's, ECT's and oil temperatures are as close to whatever constant I determine on that day. I will be using stock weight oils and might also be testing oil additives using only one type of synthetic oil. The testing will most likely be done mid-December once I acquire enough oil and filters.

So far I'm going to test -
Mobil 1
Redline Oil
Royal Purple
Castrol
Amsoil
Supertech
Joe Gibb's Racing Oil (Anyone have 4 quarts? This stuff is some $$$ if I buy it off their site)
?
?

I'm looking for suggestions on what else to test and possibly donations via paypal or just sending me 4 quarts of whatever oil.

Paypal is backpurge@yahoo.com or you can send oil to

D.I.D. Race Engineering, Inc.
820 Brian Drive, Unit A
Crest Hill, IL 60435

I now have 9 OEM Honda Oil filters so within a couple weeks I'll be picking up all of the oil.

 

looking forward to some interesting results.........

i did notice recently that Lucas Oils has a line of racing synthetic engine oil. I'm not sure if its new but i never seen them before up until i was shopping at my local parts source.

i don't know if there is any interest in testing that oil out?

http://www.lucasoil.com/produc...=show

 

Interesting indeed.

Keep us posted.

 

any news yet???
ive been following this for a while and still waiting dont mean to aound rude just really wanna see how it turns out.
-isaac

 

If you can get your hand on some of this stuff http://www.lelube.com/Products_Racing.asp that would be cool. This stuff is suposed to be better than mobil 1.

http://www.lelube.com/Technical_DynoTesting.asp
http://www.lelube.com/Technical_ProductTesting.asp

 

Subscrizzled.

 

i just bought some leading edge oil. so far seems to be better than the mobil 1 i used before

 

Where did you end up getting it and how much $$$$$ was it?

 

i got it from modern performance. there are like only 3 vendors that sell it. depending how much you get mobil 1 for its actually a little less. i only payed 4.99 a qrt and they threw in some of the leading edge coolant addititve.

 

ive tested castrol, it broke down really fast especialy at high rpms.

 

Torco oil is supposed to be some real good stuff. I'm anxious to see the results as well.

 

lets say you've got 100k motor and you put 20w50 in it now that should help compression but increase friction vrs 5w30 would reduce friction but wouldn't help compression. where would you see your biggest benifit from increased compression or less friction. just a topic . I currently run mobil1 5w30 in my 99base. can't wait to see the results.

 

mind if i ask how????
how does a thinner oil increase compression, i get the bit about the lubication but i can get the compression part
-|saac

 

He said a thicker oil increases compression.

 

Really looking forward to the results! Are you still in need of more money for oil costs and such? If so how much more do you need? Whn do you plan to do this test?

Thanks

 

save your time and money. a chassis dyno is by no means going to give you accurate enough numbers. way to many variables.

an engine dyno would be the only way to properly perform that test.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by trickeng &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">save your time and money. a chassis dyno is by no means going to give you accurate enough numbers. way to many variables.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Explain. If I keep oil temperature, IAT's, ECT's, Trans fluid temp within a few degrees each time I do a pull I can have #'s that overlap time and time again. Plus I'm going to do be doing 3 pulls on each oil (going to show individual runs and the average of the 3 for each oil) after completely draining the oil and changing the filter and letting it run for 30 minutes. So if I'm keeping down the unwanted variables to the point that they won't effect the data what's the problem?

A lot of people say a lot of things about something that they've never tried.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KillaLude92 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Really looking forward to the results! Are you still in need of more money for oil costs and such? If so how much more do you need? Whn do you plan to do this test?

Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

So far I have all the filters I could need and I was donated $10. That'll cover 4 quarts of Supertech oil. I have a bunch of Mobil1 at our shop but it'd still be nice to not have to cover all of the other oils out of my pocket.

 

They did a test like this comparing synthetic and non sythetic oil with sport bikes in Sport Rider in 03. Sythetic avg a 1hp increase over non syn and syn held up a lot longer than the non syn

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by trickeng &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">save your time and money. a chassis dyno is by no means going to give you accurate enough numbers. way to many variables.</TD></TR></TABLE>

A chassis dyno can provide reasonable results.

I think the big variable present here is the residual oil in the engine even when a full swap is performed. To compensate, you would need a standard flush oil to be run through the engine before each test. To achieve more accurate results, you should do a set of three or more runs for each oil, changing the oil to fresh oil between each run to detect the possibility of a trend due to any residual oil from the previous brand. This quickly becomes tedious.

 

Whatever the added variables from a chassis dyno, I'd think the type of oil is still the biggest one.

 

import builders did a dyno test w mobil 1 synthetic vs a non synthetic cant remember what were the gains

 

heres the link:
http://www.importreview.com/re....html
it made from 1-3 hp over the other oil

 

Some variables which can cause 1-2Hp variations which are almost impossible to keep perfectly steady.

Intake Temp
AFR
Tire pressure
Tire temp
Engine temp
Tranny fluid temp

As for what is reported in magzines and articles like that are they are looking for reader to read the story, write or wrong. If a Hendricks or Roush racing engineer writes and acticle regarding this I would pay attention.

Hey, if you believe you can pull it off, good luck, but I have all types of egt's, temp sensors and pressure sensors to monitor anything you want write on the dyno and I wouldn't put any merrit behind the results.

Having spoken with many pro race teams and oil manufacturers over the years, Mobil 1 has always been a the most recommended for the money and a daily driving oil.

Oils which make a lot more power than Mobil1 (royal purples high end, torcu ect..) cost huge money and need to changed at shorter intervals.

 

So far Joe Gibb's and Redline are both sending me 4 quarts for testing.

 

Royal Purple just sent me back an email saying they'll send out 4 quarts too.