Header Fabrication 101 (56k wait a while)
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Lemont, IL, USA
Header Fabrication 101 (56k wait a while)
I see a whole bunch of threads about 'How to backpurge?', 'How to make a jig?' blah blah blah so I'll compile all of my answers into one.
Step 1 - Buy a crapload of piping from Burn's Stainless or where ever.
Step 2 - Buy or make your own merge collectors (I'm too lazy/costwise these are cheaper for the customer/thanks Burn's for the quick turn around).
Inside of merge collector (5-1)
Notice no welding on the exterior center of the collector (read: tight fit up
)
Step 3 - Form piping to exhaust port shape. I put this in a vise and clamp the pipe.
Step 4 - Here's my expensive *** jig, made by me to duplicate the stock mounting points of both passenger and driver's side stock manifolds. Each port has a tapped hole in it so I can run a argon line to each individual cylinder while I'm tacking stuff up.
Step 5 - When routing piping make sure there is clearance for things like valve covers, spark plug wires, and air-water aftercoolers for the supercharger setup you still have to bolt up above the headers.
Step 6 - Once piping is routed take the individual runners apart to weld them up.
Step 7 - My simple backpurge setup running from a seperate argon tank.
Step 8 - Polish that **** and cry because you're only halfway done if you're working on a V-10.
Modified by backpurge at 3:05 AM 12/11/2005
Step 1 - Buy a crapload of piping from Burn's Stainless or where ever.
Step 2 - Buy or make your own merge collectors (I'm too lazy/costwise these are cheaper for the customer/thanks Burn's for the quick turn around).
Inside of merge collector (5-1)
Notice no welding on the exterior center of the collector (read: tight fit up
)Step 3 - Form piping to exhaust port shape. I put this in a vise and clamp the pipe.
Step 4 - Here's my expensive *** jig, made by me to duplicate the stock mounting points of both passenger and driver's side stock manifolds. Each port has a tapped hole in it so I can run a argon line to each individual cylinder while I'm tacking stuff up.
Step 5 - When routing piping make sure there is clearance for things like valve covers, spark plug wires, and air-water aftercoolers for the supercharger setup you still have to bolt up above the headers.
Step 6 - Once piping is routed take the individual runners apart to weld them up.
Step 7 - My simple backpurge setup running from a seperate argon tank.
Step 8 - Polish that **** and cry because you're only halfway done if you're working on a V-10.
Modified by backpurge at 3:05 AM 12/11/2005
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 520
Likes: 1
From: Sacramento, CA, USA
Re: Header Fabrication 101 (90blackcrx)
Agreed. Although I have never been the one asking the questions you reffered to(I always like to see how everyone does stuff though), that write up is awesome! Great fitup with everything and as you stated, which I had been contemplating, I think I will just stick with buying the merge collectors from Burns. Too much work to get them to work right, and even then they are never as good as what Burns produces. Great write up! Thanks a bunch!
Kyle
Kyle
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Posts: n/a
Re: Header Fabrication 101 (blueoval557)
Those look nice .I built a set that looked allot like those for Roger Mears.Back in 95 or 96 for a Dodge truck that they put a viper motor in for Pikes Peak.And yes he won his class.Those uneven number cylinder collectors are a bitch .Huh? Have you ever made a 6 or 8 into 1 collector? They are fun also.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 289
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From: Ephrata, PA, USA
Ever have problems with the runners tweeking out of shape when welding them off the flanges?
I know that you should have a really tight fitup, 4 or 8 tacks around each joint first, and weld 180* apart, 1/4 of the way passes, but can it still be possible to shrink or tweek?
I know that you should have a really tight fitup, 4 or 8 tacks around each joint first, and weld 180* apart, 1/4 of the way passes, but can it still be possible to shrink or tweek?
Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,852
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From: Houston, Texas, USA
Re: (91TSiGuy)
I had this problem just a couple weeks ago on my sidewinder I was working on, ended up scrapping 2 runners completely 
What I do so that this doesn't happen is weld as much as I possibly can while it is all tacked in position, then finish weld when it gets taken apart, it seems to hold up a little better for me that way.
-James
What I do so that this doesn't happen is weld as much as I possibly can while it is all tacked in position, then finish weld when it gets taken apart, it seems to hold up a little better for me that way.
-James
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,788
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From: Charlotte, NC
Re: Header Fabrication 101 (backpurge)
nice write up thanks for the plug guys
I always recommend when the headers are completely tacked to break the tacks on the flange, weld each tube individually, place back in ficture or whatever tweak tubes back as they will pull then weld to flnage, and retweak tubes.!
I always recommend when the headers are completely tacked to break the tacks on the flange, weld each tube individually, place back in ficture or whatever tweak tubes back as they will pull then weld to flnage, and retweak tubes.!
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Member
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Lemont, IL, USA
Re: Header Fabrication 101 (xtremeazian)
It's for our shop truck but a guy who owns a business across from us has two Dodge Ram SRT-10's that he wants a set for too.
http://www.didraceengineering....0.htm
http://www.didraceengineering....0.htm
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 5,986
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From: Kitchener, Ontario, CANADA
Re: Header Fabrication 101 (backpurge)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by backpurge »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Buy a crapload of piping from Burn's Stainless or where ever.</TD></TR></TABLE>
