most aggressive cams with stock b18c
Honestly with everything else being stock I wouldn't use anything more agressive than stock ITR cams. If you were willing to do valvesprings as well, then it opens up quite a few more possibilities.
you need to upgrade the valvesprings and retainers in order to rev to the range where the new cams will make power. you will also need tuning. cam gears are recommended too. a good rule of thumb is if you are replacing something internal, you will generally need something else to go along with it to take advantage of it.
ie bigger cams = more lift, more airflow --> you need more fuel, good exhaust flow.
ie bigger cams = more lift, more airflow --> you need more fuel, good exhaust flow.
CTR cams and 01 ITR Spec cams are the most agressive cams honda make and yes you can safley put them in. But why put larger cams in if you cant afford to put more fuel in, bring in more air, and move more exhaust out of the cylinders, they wont be effective with out changing the other stuff which makes it useless. Maybe you should think about another mod until you are able to afford to upgrade your valvetrain as a whole
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96CivicBoostCoupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">CTR cams and 01 ITR Spec cams are the most agressive cams honda make and yes you can safley put them in. But why put larger cams in if you cant afford to put more fuel in, bring in more air, and move more exhaust out of the cylinders, they wont be effective with out changing the other stuff which makes it useless. Maybe you should think about another mod until you are able to afford to upgrade your valvetrain as a whole</TD></TR></TABLE>
i mean internally stock, i have a chipped p28, skunk manifold and full exhaust, i'll probably look into oem r cams then
i mean internally stock, i have a chipped p28, skunk manifold and full exhaust, i'll probably look into oem r cams then
you will still need itr spring and retainers is what they are trying to tell you.
i guarantee you that itr cams,springs and retainers will cost you a lot less than
a new gsr head.
i guarantee you that itr cams,springs and retainers will cost you a lot less than
a new gsr head.
i would run rocket cams.. rocket got cams with valvetrain packages.. cant go wrong with them... check out bctuned.com, and go see the m20 package.. its $545 shipped, it has better durations then itr or ctr... plus the price is right for cams and valvetrain..
I have CTR Cams in my totaly stock B18c. Valve springs, retainers. Your stock valve springs are good to about 8,500 rpm's. if you keep your block stock there is no need for 9,000 rpm springs, cause it can't handle much more than that. and you can always just get 2 OEM GSR intake dual valve springs and retainers and then you will definantly have no valve float up to 8,500 rpms. Just get it tuned right. I personally have hondata, but thats probably not in your budget.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xEnderx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">HOnestly Type R cams are some damn fine peices of work. </TD></TR></TABLE>
agreed..
agreed..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sketch_hs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've seen valve train failures with people runing ITR cams with less than ITR valvetrain. It's not pretty.
Do it right the first time or don't do it at all</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed, better to spend ~$250 on valvesprings and retainers than dropping a valve, but thats just my opinion
Do it right the first time or don't do it at all</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed, better to spend ~$250 on valvesprings and retainers than dropping a valve, but thats just my opinion
i'm trying to "do it right" in a budget, that's why i'm asking. i don't want to have to change valve springs. explain how R cams will hurt your engine on a stock valve train. the jdm b18c's redline is 8200 anyway, those cams are made for 8200rpm. I've had the thing up at about 12000rpm before albeit for a short period of time, with very minimal damage.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by littlegreenb18 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...with very minimal damage.</TD></TR></TABLE>
sorry, that made me laugh.
I guess your definition of minimal damage is different than mine.
if you've ran it up to 12k on a stock setup, you've more than likely all ready done some damage that you can not see.
IF your B18C is the GSR then simply set your rev limiter to 8600, set your redline to 8400 and run the R cams with a good tune and you'll be happy.
IF your B18C is the ITR then you all ready have them, look elsewhere.
sorry, that made me laugh.
I guess your definition of minimal damage is different than mine.
if you've ran it up to 12k on a stock setup, you've more than likely all ready done some damage that you can not see.
IF your B18C is the GSR then simply set your rev limiter to 8600, set your redline to 8400 and run the R cams with a good tune and you'll be happy.
IF your B18C is the ITR then you all ready have them, look elsewhere.
it was minimal damage considering the circumstances, i'll put it that way. never let your idiot friends drive your newly swapped car, a hard lesson. anyway, its a sir-g b18c, i guess r cams are the way to go. i just don't see the stock valve train not handeling them
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by littlegreenb18 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it was minimal damage considering the circumstances, i'll put it that way. never let your idiot friends drive your newly swapped car, a hard lesson. anyway, its a sir-g b18c, i guess r cams are the way to go. i just don't see the stock valve train not handeling them</TD></TR></TABLE>
The stock valve train will handle them fine as long as you don't try and spin the thing up past 8400 rpm. With any cam with greater lift and duration, though, you're going to run into the problem of valve float if you don't have tight enough springs. The GSR springs were made with the GSR camshafts in mind. The ITR camshafts are more aggessive and, thus, are designed for a stronger valvetrain.
You can be patient and do it right and make a lot of power or you can be in a big ******* hurry for no reason and make maybe 3 at the wheels and realize you wasted money instead of buying the M20 package from Rocket right off the bat.
The stock valve train will handle them fine as long as you don't try and spin the thing up past 8400 rpm. With any cam with greater lift and duration, though, you're going to run into the problem of valve float if you don't have tight enough springs. The GSR springs were made with the GSR camshafts in mind. The ITR camshafts are more aggessive and, thus, are designed for a stronger valvetrain.
You can be patient and do it right and make a lot of power or you can be in a big ******* hurry for no reason and make maybe 3 at the wheels and realize you wasted money instead of buying the M20 package from Rocket right off the bat.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by littlegreenb18 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it was minimal damage considering the circumstances, i'll put it that way. never let your idiot friends drive your newly swapped car, a hard lesson. anyway, its a sir-g b18c, i guess r cams are the way to go. i just don't see the stock valve train not handeling them</TD></TR></TABLE>
I know that feeling well. hence why no one other than me drives my hatch.
sir-g = gsr so you'll be ok with a setup like I mentioned. there will be more lift and more duration with the R cams, so more abuse to the springs. keep your friends under control and you should be ok.
I know that feeling well. hence why no one other than me drives my hatch.
sir-g = gsr so you'll be ok with a setup like I mentioned. there will be more lift and more duration with the R cams, so more abuse to the springs. keep your friends under control and you should be ok.
theres a reason i'm asking this question, so everyone who's saying do it right and get valve springs please stop. i CAN NOT AFFORD it, and i'll never be able to, i have a little money for some cams, then my spending on cars is done for the next 18ish years. except in cases of extreme lift, valve springs don't matter on what came you use, they only matter on how high you rev. what i'm trying to get at is, what cam can make power in a stock b18c's rev range. so it looks like r cams are ok, but some of you are saying basically the power gains are not worth it, right or wrong? also i already have cam gears. and one more thing, maybe i'm just **** but the jdm b18c is a sir-g motor, NOT a gsr, i hate it when people refer to the jdm motor as gsr, just a pet pev i guess
thats y im telling you to get the rocket m20 cam package for $545 shipped... package comes with cams and the valvetrain... cant beat the price... cuz you might spend alot for itr or ctr cams, den on top of that, you going to get a set of valvetrain... the rocket cams would be perfect for a mild set up... its more aggresive then the ctr cams...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by littlegreenb18 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">theres a reason i'm asking this question, so everyone who's saying do it right and get valve springs please stop. i CAN NOT AFFORD it, and i'll never be able to, i have a little money for some cams, then my spending on cars is done for the next 18ish years. except in cases of extreme lift, valve springs don't matter on what came you use, they only matter on how high you rev. what i'm trying to get at is, what cam can make power in a stock b18c's rev range. so it looks like r cams are ok, but some of you are saying basically the power gains are not worth it, right or wrong? also i already have cam gears. and one more thing, maybe i'm just **** but the jdm b18c is a sir-g motor, NOT a gsr, i hate it when people refer to the jdm motor as gsr, just a pet pev i guess
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no dude what we are saying is if you dont do the supporting mods(valvesprings and retainers) then you wont be able to take advantage of the extra power, which is a waste of your money and time. rule #1 - if you cant do it the right way then dont do it at all. and whoever told you that springs dont matter is pretty f-cking stupid. ever heard of valve float, or valve spring bind? do it right dude..dont waste your money. when it comes to cars and mods...patience is a virtue.
</TD></TR></TABLE>no dude what we are saying is if you dont do the supporting mods(valvesprings and retainers) then you wont be able to take advantage of the extra power, which is a waste of your money and time. rule #1 - if you cant do it the right way then dont do it at all. and whoever told you that springs dont matter is pretty f-cking stupid. ever heard of valve float, or valve spring bind? do it right dude..dont waste your money. when it comes to cars and mods...patience is a virtue.




dont do something halfway. just save up and do what you really want to do when you can.