OK, this is my first post on a DIY project and hopefully wont be my last. The project was fairly easy and was pretty much what i expected it to be. On a level of experience to do this, i would have to say beginner.

Time: About 1 hour (time from taking and putting back on wheel) on this first rotor, the rest come much easier.

Tools: Jack and stands, ratchet with 8,12,14mm sockets, tire iron (didn't have a impact wrench), phillips screw driver, zip ties, manual impact wrench (important), brake cleaner, new rotors and screws, instructions if they came with any.

Click pics to enlarge.

A picture of some of the tools and my foot.



Now jack up the car on a level surface and place the stands according to your car manual or helms. Take a tire iron or impact wrench with a 19mm socket and remove the wheel. You should now see this.



Take you ratchet and a 12mm socket and remove the 2 bolts on the back of the caliper. The reason i add this part is so you can check your pads and clean as necessary. Also this is a good time to inspect your brake lines and bleed your brakes. This has been covered on HT on how to bleed your brakes. Now take your 14mm socket and remove the other 2 bolts on the back of the caliper towards the center of the car. This should take off the whole caliper.

Take a zip tie and put it through the opening for the 14mm bolt and tie it around the lower fork of your suspension. So the caliper isn't hanging by the brake line. Like this!



Now if your lazy like me, you can take a brake and grab something to eat.



Ok back to work, now i read on HT four different ways on how to take off the stubborn screws that hold on the rotor. I will explain 3 of them, the last i will explain at the end.

First method: Just a simple phillips screw driver with a hammer strike at the end.
Results: Didn't work for me.



Second method: A 8mm bolt (sorry forgot exact size) tighten down into the other holes along the rotor. In theory its supposed to push the rotor off the hub.
Results: Didn't work for me.




Third: Use the Manual Impact and Hammer, heres a pic:



This worked for me on the first one I did. After that I used the 4th method and the rest of them. Here's what it should look like after rotor is off: Also take the time here to check hub and bearings and fix/replace if needed.



Now slide on the new rotors and tighten down with the new screws, make sure to use some grade of lock tight, i used the lowest one in case i have to do this again.

A few pics of the new rotor on.





Fourth method: This is by far the best way to do this. My friend called me up one day and said that he had just purchased a new torch and bottles, i said sweet! So i took my car over and took off everything down to the rotor and screws. He heated those screws up for like a min. and used a normal screw driver and came right off. I was kinda pissed since i just spent about 2 hours doing the front rotors, but happy at the same time.

Put everything back on in reverse and torque down to factory specs. And your done.

In conclusion, not a bad diy project if you got a couple of hours. I did notice a better stopping distance, not much but noticeable. Since then i have put on Goodridge SS lines and Hawk pads, noticed a big difference there. Hope this helps someone.



Fell free to comment, but be kind.




Modified by 00IntegrAllmotoR at 6:55 PM 7/2/2006

 

easy stuff.....

 

Why slot rotors?

 

where did you get the rotors from?

 

nice clean easy writeup

 

You drink shitty beer.

 

You eat shitty food. Im sorry , nice writeup.

 

thnx for the write up!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00IntegrAllmotoR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Since then i have put on Goodridge SS lines and Hawk pads, noticed a big difference there. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Goodridge brake lines are not coated on the outside with plastic. These can fail when dirt is trapped in the SS braid wears the underlying teflon.

Did you inspect the brake rotor runout?

 

Nice job. My one suggestion would be to skip the thread lock on the rotor screws, or even leave the screws out altogether.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Goodridge brake lines are not coated on the outside with plastic. These can fail when dirt is trapped in the SS braid wears the underlying teflon.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmmmm......

i have had those lines for almost 4 years now, i am hoping maybe mine will fail soon.

 

i should get to do doing thing to my dc2 one day...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by svtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

hmmmm......

i have had those lines for almost 4 years now, i am hoping maybe mine will fail soon. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The sarcasm is noted. If I recall correctly, the older Goodridge SS lines were not coated or DOT approved. A search will yield some good reading. We all have reasons for our decisions.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The sarcasm is noted. If I recall correctly, the older Goodridge SS lines were not coated or DOT approved. A search will yield some good reading. We all have reasons for our decisions.</TD></TR></TABLE>

true, my reasons are pretty much implied in the previous statement. i will have to check some of that **** out, someday.

 

I got slotted because i believe that they are a better upgrade then my oem blanks,
i got them at importreplacementparts.com. I would also suggest that people just get the slotted in the front and blanks in the rear, since most of your stopping is done in the rear.

Don't know about the lines being coated or not , but i could have sworn that they were at lease DOT approved.

BTW: i like my beer thanks!

Thanks for the comments.

 

Those rotors came on my car and I can't say if they helped or not but with some oem replacement pads the car stops amazingly well compared to other tegs my friends have. The plating has helped them not rust and look good but they less gold now that they lived through a winter of salt.
I've never heard of using the bolts to push the rotor off before removing the screws. Impact screwdrivers are basically the only helpful toool get them off their, i actually broke mine getting my friend's off his del sol.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Danronian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Those rotors came on my car and I can't say if they helped or not but with some oem replacement pads the car stops amazingly well compared to other tegs my friends have. The plating has helped them not rust and look good but they less gold now that they lived through a winter of salt.
I've never heard of using the bolts to push the rotor off before removing the screws. Impact screwdrivers are basically the only helpful toool get them off their, i actually broke mine getting my friend's off his del sol. </TD></TR></TABLE>

****, that gold look is gone within 2 days of heavy breaking.

 

i meant the gold part on the parts of the rotor that the pads DONT touch, it makes it not rust w/ salt on it all winter unlike non-coated rotors

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00IntegrAllmotoR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I got slotted because i believe that they are a better upgrade then my oem blanks,
i got them at importreplacementparts.com. I would also suggest that people just get the slotted in the front and blanks in the rear, since most of your stopping is done in the rear.

Thanks for the comments.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wrong dude. Most of the stopping are done in the front. Ever seen a car stop? all the weights shifts to the front end.

imagine if all the stopping were done on the rear calipers. guess what will happend. ur rear will be sliding FOREVER.

hense: front brake pads needing to be replaced sooner then the rear.

 

i agree of the with the above post.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by many styles &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Wrong dude. Most of the stopping are done in the front. Ever seen a car stop? all the weights shifts to the front end.

imagine if all the stopping were done on the rear calipers. guess what will happend. ur rear will be sliding FOREVER.

hense: front brake pads needing to be replaced sooner then the rear.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah i knew that , but i was at work and trying to hurry up on writing.

i meant front!

 

werd

 

Why on earth would you put Loctite on the rotor screws - how will they come lose when your wheel is bolted to the hub w/4 lug nuts?

Secondly, the heads on those screws are made of putty, so it's very easy to damage them in the 1st place. Just use the impact driver method to remove them, and next time just tighten them *snug* or leave them out all together.

 

I thought the 10mm bolt's purpose was to help to take off the rotor (if stuck on the hub and while the screws are already out) off the hub.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NightRider-gsR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I thought the 10mm bolt's purpose was to help to take off the rotor (if stuck on the hub and while the screws are already out) off the hub.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Correct