Quick recap of this problem...

Car cranks but wouldn't start... change plugs and dist cap ( no rotor ), started right up.

Problem came back, checked plugs and everything looked good. Changed rotor, she started right up so I figured this was the problem. I also chaged the fuel filter as well.

The car started fine for the last 3-4 weeks until today... She cranks over but won't start. The car has been sitting for about a week.

Any idea what it could be? I'm really at a loss here as to what to check now.. I was supposed to take the car in the morning to go snowboarding.


Modified by RuskeR at 4:27 PM 11/11/2005

 

well....you've already diagnosed the distributor, plugs, plug wires......

what about the starter? Battery? etc etc....

 

pull the plug and ground out while someone tries to start it.

Check for a weak spark. Could be a bad/on its way out ICM.

 

I would say the coil is getting weak. The starter and battery are definitely ok.

 

test your coil and ignitor. also the dc model tegs....also check your main relay.... the connections might be cracked, open it up and resolder the connects with cracks.


Modified by projectTeG at 5:21 AM 11/12/2005

 

ignition coil?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dudefella &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ignition coil?</TD></TR></TABLE>

maybe

 

i would say it is your main relay

 

Didn't get a chance to call the dealership today.. what do the main relays usually cost?

 

i believe it was around $100 or so for my DA. this was a while ago so i may be wrong. i wanna say $120 for some reason.

 

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/d...ch=no number 17.

 

thanks!

Is there anyway to check the one I have to make sure this is the problem? I'd like to know for sure rather than throw parts into the car and hope it fixes it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RuskeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks!

Is there anyway to check the one I have to make sure this is the problem? I'd like to know for sure rather than throw parts into the car and hope it fixes it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

you can always crack it open and re-solder the cranks on the board.
http://g2ic.com/forums/showthr...relay
its for a gen2 but its pretty much the same.

 

Interesting...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RuskeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Interesting...</TD></TR></TABLE>

worked for me, i wasnt haveing that many starting problems, but i stumbles upon that link and crack my main relay open and i had about 5 cracks that we repaired and my problems went away. i did this about a year and a half ago.

 

So is it the main igintion relay, or the fuel relay?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RuskeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> So is it the main igintion relay, or the fuel relay?</TD></TR></TABLE>fuel

 

coil/igniter. for the igniter, there's an updated part # that's cheaper and lasts longer. you want the brown one not the black one.

 

have that #?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RuskeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have that #?</TD></TR></TABLE>

easy way to check if your coil or ignitor is bad it to check it with a voltmeter

 

somewhere, but can't look right now. i'll post it if i find it. too much paperwork lying around...

 

Correct me if I'm wrong here. If it's the main relay wouldn't the car not crank at all? Here his car is obviously cranking, but not starting. Can you hear the fuel pump when you turn to the second ignition or smell fuel when you crank it a few time when it won't start?

Do you have a fuel pump kill switch? I had a problem once when my kill switch would work only when it felt like it. Well it's either fuel or electrical, best bet is to eliminate one of the choices.

Just thought of this...my uncle's 87 integra was having all sort of starting/idling/rpm fluation problem and it turned out his cat was really clogged. Just another thing for you to ponder about.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ricebucket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Correct me if I'm wrong here. If it's the main relay wouldn't the car not crank at all? Here his car is obviously cranking, but not starting. Can you hear the fuel pump when you turn to the second ignition or smell fuel when you crank it a few time when it won't start?

Do you have a fuel pump kill switch? I had a problem once when my kill switch would work only when it felt like it. Well it's either fuel or electrical, best bet is to eliminate one of the choices.

Just thought of this...my uncle's 87 integra was having all sort of starting/idling/rpm fluation problem and it turned out his cat was really clogged. Just another thing for you to ponder about. </TD></TR></TABLE>

it would still crank if the relay was bad

 

I re-soldered my main relays on my DB1 and DB2 and have not had a problem since.

 

Relays rarely brake. They are just an electronically charged magnet. Check your T-belt if the car will not start at all. This **** happened to me a few years ago. I went around all night racing, pulled my car in the garage at night and everything was fine. The next morning go to start it and it would crank & crank but nothing the first few times I could hear the pops and hisses from the compression and then it stop and just spun real easy. I checked everything and I mean everything for over a week and could not find anything wrong I even ordered a Moroso dizzy to try that. Long story short I finally pulled the valve cover and put the crank to TDC & the cams were both 15 degrees advanced. Luckily there was no piston to valve contact but apparently the tensioner pulley broke and let the T-belt go loose it cause a walking problem and almost FUCKED my motor up. I put on a new belt set the TDC & Timing and was off again.......