I recenly scored a '90 CRX SiR

Coming from BA5 Preludes I know sfa about B series engines

I've been reading a few threads here and talking to Mark at Beyond2 Performance (aka Beyond Motorworks), you will know of them if you have seen High Octane.

I'm still rather lost as to which block to start with.

I'm not exactly too sure what the limits of a N/A B series would be however I would like around 200whp atleast, 130whp I have now is a fair bit however it is lacking at times. Also I would like to have a higher red line... Something around 9,000rpm would be ideal.

Starting from the inside and working out please.

I've had a lot of diffent feedback on pistons. Beyond recommend SRP pistons with Eagle rods. However others have tried to push me towards CP pistons saying they are better and the weight difference is minimal between each piston. While some people have told me to stay with factory pistons out of a different engine like a B18CR as forged internals arent terribly reliable.

The other thing is rods and crank. Again Beyond said that the stock crank will be more than enough and Eagle rods. Any opinions or experiences are welcomed.

I think that will do me for now, however some information of sleeves, whats envolved etc etc would be great. I'll have a google but I would much apreciate peoples personal experiences and views.

Thanks,


Andrew

Very sorry about the long post
Also when it comes to getting parts I dont mind paying a bit more for something far superior. I would rather wait longer and get something better.

 

200 whp if tuned right, here it is...

1.)PCT pistons, prefferably .25 over
2.)Eagle rods, though not necessary...cheap insurance
3.)Light headwork, "street" port
4.)RM gen 2 valvesprings and retainers
5.)RM M22x/S2S2/Jun 3 cams
6.)TODA header, <U>nothing</U> else for a B16, can't beat it.
7.)H-data S200
8.)Type R/Blox/S2 IM
9.)Maybe a diff t-body since I'm assuming your motor is a gen 1
10.)Of course a new HG
11.)Maybe some 310's
12.)free flow cat with some sort of manderel bent 2.5 exhaust
13.)dyno tuned and you're there, would probably peak around 8,700-little over 9k.

That motor would haul *** in your car, not allot of midrange but hold onto your *** when vtec engages!

 

The motor is a Gen 1 however Im tossing up between getting another Gen1 or get a Gen2 and work with that...

This is what I was thinking so far

Skunk2 Pro Series IM
Skunk2 Pro Series 68mm T/B
Gizzmo ECU as its made in NZ and lots of tuners here for it
2.25 or 2.5inch Mandrel exhaust leaning towards 2.5 right now
The rest is undecided

Have you got a link to RM and PCT. Ive never heard of them so would like to have a read into what they make n such

Thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Frankei &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The motor is a Gen 1 however Im tossing up between getting another Gen1 or get a Gen2 and work with that...

This is what I was thinking so far

Skunk2 Pro Series IM
Skunk2 Pro Series 68mm T/B
Gizzmo ECU as its made in NZ and lots of tuners here for it
2.25 or 2.5inch Mandrel exhaust leaning towards 2.5 right now
The rest is undecided

Have you got a link to RM and PCT. Ive never heard of them so would like to have a read into what they make n such

Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

PCT's are OEM pistons from a CTR(B16B). Check out JHPUSA.com

PCT Pistons
http://www.jhpusa.com/catalog/...9a6e9

Rocket Motorsports
http://www.m24x.com

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clean rice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">200 whp if tuned right, here it is...

1.)PCT pistons, prefferably .25 over
2.)Eagle rods, though not necessary...cheap insurance
3.)Light headwork, "street" port
4.)RM gen 2 valvesprings and retainers
5.)RM M22x/S2S2/Jun 3 cams
6.)TODA header, <U>nothing</U> else for a B16, can't beat it.
7.)H-data S200
8.)Type R/Blox/S2 IM
9.)Maybe a diff t-body since I'm assuming your motor is a gen 1
10.)Of course a new HG
11.)Maybe some 310's
12.)free flow cat with some sort of manderel bent 2.5 exhaust
13.)dyno tuned and you're there, would probably peak around 8,700-little over 9k.

That motor would haul *** in your car, not allot of midrange but hold onto your *** when vtec engages! </TD></TR></TABLE>

there's your answers right there thanks to clean_rice is this a personal setup clean_rice?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clean rice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
2.)Eagle rods, though not necessary...cheap insurance
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I say just shotpeen the stock rods, and buy ARP rod bolts. However aftermarket rods wouldn't be a bad choice considering you do not know the mileage of your B16.

Be weary of Eagle rods. I remember reading and article that stated that Eagle rods do not allow oil to reach the rod bearings very well. That can be dangerous on a high rpm engine. Call Eagle and doublecheck though, as that article was a while ago; and Eagle may make their rods differently now.

 

If all goes well Ill be picking up a BRAND NEW crated gen2 B16A in a months time... I **** you not brand new