I'm thinking of getting the rear bar (22mm aka 7/8")...

I can buy just the rear for ~$100 or the front and rear for $180.

Can you tell me how much stiffer the rear is (it is adjustable), and why I shouldn't get the front bar?

Assuming I can get enough rear spring under the car to compensate for it, why would I not want a bigger front bar?

Also, there appears to be two different applications for the rear bar - for vehicles that came oe with a rear bar and vehicles that didn't. What is the inherent difference?

I know that I at least need a rear bar.

The ST is affordable, and stiffer than the stocker.

The downside is that I don't want to buy this bar and then have to buy another one at a later date.

I have itr rear lca's, but the mounting points for the endlinks are in the same spot afai can tell.....

 

I hate that rear bar because of the weight it adds, but there are not a lot of other choices unless you custom make one.

I was also never happy with the angle the endlinks were at when all was said and done.

I dialed in rotation with springrate and used the oem rear bar (15mm). What other bar you looking at buying, because I don't know of many others...

 

even the custom made by I had wasn't much lighter than the ST bar.

For $100 I'd go for it. I think I paid around $145 for my ST rear bar when i bought it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm thinking of getting the rear bar (22mm aka 7/8")...

I can buy just the rear for ~$100 or the front and rear for $180.

Can you tell me how much stiffer the rear is (it is adjustable), and why I shouldn't get the front bar?

Assuming I can get enough rear spring under the car to compensate for it, why would I not want a bigger front bar?

Also, there appears to be two different applications for the rear bar - for vehicles that came oe with a rear bar and vehicles that didn't. What is the inherent difference?

I know that I at least need a rear bar.

The ST is affordable, and stiffer than the stocker.

The downside is that I don't want to buy this bar and then have to buy another one at a later date.

I have itr rear lca's, but the mounting points for the endlinks are in the same spot afai can tell..... </TD></TR></TABLE>

The ST rear bar is good, but you should pin the angle bracket that attaches the lower damper mount to the ARB end link. Without pinning, the angle bracket can rotate causing a ARB preload - not good.

 

i think the 22mm solid front ST bar is way too thick to be useful.

if you wanted a thicker than stock front bar, you have EF 4dr sedan (19mm solid) and DA (23mm hollow) swaybars available for cheap, and without being as stiff as the ST front bar.

upgrading the rear swaybar to 22mm is pretty common. i dont see the added weight of the bar and brackets an issue.

as for the ST rear bar, lots of ppl use it successfully, but the endlinks do commonly cause problems, as well as exhaust pipe conflicts.

neuspeed and intrax have rear bars available that use the stock brackets and endlink. theyre pretty pricey tho for just a rear bar.

 

Yeah, if I had the means to make a hollow oem bend 22mm rear bar that fit into the oem location (with upgraded brackets), I think I could sell a *ton* of them.

I went back to the oem rear bar just because I hated the Susp. tech. piece so much.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Johnny Mac &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The ST rear bar is good, but you should pin the angle bracket that attaches the lower damper mount to the ARB end link. Without pinning, the angle bracket can rotate causing a ARB preload - not good. </TD></TR></TABLE>


I *think* I understand what you are saying, but..... got a pic?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think the 22mm solid front ST bar is way too thick to be useful.</TD></TR></TABLE>


I was hoping that it was adjustable as well.... oh well... seeing as how so few people have this bar, I may never know...

I was thinking I can leave the oem rear bar + use the ST rear bar as a complimentary piece. On full stiff, I've heard it can make the car quite a handful.....

I wonder if anyone has used a 26mm rear bar...

Or I could always use my stock itr one... but that would probably require some work to massage under there...

A friend of mine had an 88 crx si and with the ST bar there were problems with the endlinks (iirc, they had similar rear lca's to the itr)... Barry Hair picked up that car, and I wonder what he did to resolve the issue.....

 

you need some extra hardware to make the ST bar work with 88/itr rear lower control arms. but its available.

theres no front adjustable swaybar. you can "adjust" it by loosening the endlinks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Todd00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I went back to the oem rear bar just because I hated the Susp. tech. piece so much.
</TD></TR></TABLE>


Do tell why.

 

I'm not speaking for Todd00, but some folks with CRXs might feel like the ST bar is a bit too much even on the softest setting for autox. However, many folks run em full stiff and are quite happy that way on CRXs and EFs alike... the rest of the setup has alot to do with it.

When I compared the weights of ST rear bar brackets and links vs. stock, the ST bar weighs roughly 12lbs more...but at least its in the lower rear, and not the upper front.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Johnny Mac &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The ST rear bar is good, but you should pin the angle bracket that attaches the lower damper mount to the ARB end link. Without pinning, the angle bracket can rotate causing a ARB preload - not good. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly, This is what happen to me last race when I got bumped from behind and spun. After that everytime I would go to make a turn I would go spinning off the track. Happened like 5 times before I finally pulled over and watch from behind a flag station. Luckily it was at a track with alot of run off room.

 

Does anyone have a weight of the ST bar?

 

Its a boat anchor compared to stock... like I said, the whole rear ST kit (bar, links, brackets) adds 12lbs compared to the complete stock rear swaybar/links/bracket setup. The bar itself is most of that weight.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fireant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its a boat anchor compared to stock... like I said, the whole rear ST kit (bar, links, brackets) adds 12lbs compared to the complete stock rear swaybar/links/bracket setup. The bar itself is most of that weight.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's good, more rear weight bias and less understeer. Sounds good to me.

 

progress makes the 24mm competition bar if youre looking for alternatives that still have heim joint endlinks. the design is also different to address weight and packaging (exhaust, whatever) issues.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Johnny Mac &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That's good, more rear weight bias and less understeer. Sounds good to me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Adding weight is never a good thing. Distributing weight around is fine, but if adding weight to the rear helped our cars to handle, we'd all be carrying 250lbs of lead in our trunks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Todd00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Adding weight is never a good thing. Distributing weight around is fine, but if adding weight to the rear helped our cars to handle, we'd all be carrying 250lbs of lead in our trunks </TD></TR></TABLE>

It is if your car is underweight. That's right, the question wasn't asked by a roadracer so he might care about adding weight. As a roadracer, I'm always looking to rear bias any weight I can find.

 

so what 's is a good bar to get after all ?

ef sedan rear 19mm ?

da 23mm hollow ?

progress , ST, or which ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by efboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so what 's is a good bar to get after all ?

ef sedan rear 19mm ?

da 23mm hollow ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

those are for FRONT swaybars. not rear.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rsca_crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">progress makes the 24mm competition bar if youre looking for alternatives that still have heim joint endlinks. the design is also different to address weight and packaging (exhaust, whatever) issues.</TD></TR></TABLE>


That progress unit you speak of sounds tempting. But is it in the $100 range like this one?

I have a side exit exhaust in front of passenger rear tire, so no worries about exhaust fitment issues with whichever swaybar I choose.....

I would like to update some information here:

I spoke with KW Automotive aka http://www.stracing.com @ 800/595-7016

They gave me the following part numbers for the EF:

Front Sway Bar 50142
Rear Sway Bar 51140
Hardware Kit 55320 (for using rear swaybar with 88 crx si style lca’s)

Now it looks like I'll have to order the hardware kit that Tyson recommended.

But can anyone confirm if they've used the ST rear swaybar on an EF HATCH with the 88 crx si/ itr rear lower control arms?

Wish me luck, fella's!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

those are for FRONT swaybars. not rear.</TD></TR></TABLE>

which rear one should i go for ?
for price quality and performance?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Johnny Mac &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It is if your car is underweight. That's right, the question wasn't asked by a roadracer so he might care about adding weight. As a roadracer, I'm always looking to rear bias any weight I can find.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's an autox car, so I still stick with my theory that no additional weight is good weight, no matter where it is.

I think the ST 88 'kit' is just a different bolt and some washers. I'd really order without, try it on and see what is needed because you should be able to duplicate it at Sears, but don't quote me on that. When I had the ST rear bar on my car (91) I used it with the 88 ITR LCAs and I did not have the kit on it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But can anyone confirm if they've used the ST rear swaybar on an EF HATCH with the 88 crx si/ itr rear lower control arms?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have an 89 EF STD hatch (no OEM rear sway bar, no front for that matter). I have the ST 22mm rear bar. I also have ITR style Function7 aluminum rear LCAs (essentially the same as 88 CRX). I did not buy the ST adapter kit for the sway bar mounting. I made my own. Basically all that is needed is some spacers to take up the space between the endlink mounting bracket and the recess in the stamped steel ITR/88CRX where the lower shock bolt goes through. You might need to use a longer lower shock bolt as well.

I run this with an 89 CRX HF 17.2mm hollow front bar, and 560 (10K) front springs with 514 (90 N/m) rear springs for autocross. The balance is perfect for me for autocross. I don't like a tail happy car. I'm not a good enough driver for that. For the street, its bordeline on being too tail happy.

 

This is excellent information Jaker, THANK YOU.

I currently have 11kF and 16kR springs and it's not tailhappy enough for me...

I'm hoping that this bar on full soft will do the trick, so we'll see.....