Hey my car has been MESSED up and it is no longer safe to drive. It hesitates, bucks, bogs, etc. IF u think u know what youre talking about..and can diagnose the problem.. i will paypal you 10$.... PLEASE PM ME..

1995 H22a1 133k miles
i/h/e/clutch/flywheel/
p13 usdm

<U>Code 43: Fuel Supply system</U>


IT could be a combination of a TPS sensor calibration too? (because i fukd around with it) its like .4, .2 when tehc ar is off... and if i go 100, it goes back to .4 or sometimes 0.. its all fkd up...

Also OVERheats (my gauge reads ok) but the bottom radiator hose never gets hot and the fan doesnt turn on

at idle it fluctuates from 1500 to 500 and sometimes stalls...

Changed ECT
Blocked EGR
checked plugs (all black)
NGK wires
New dizzy cap and rotor
New fuel filter
Replaced FPR
No skipped teeth on timing belt
^havent checkd timing yet^ SOON THO!
Uninstalled vafc
Swapped ECU's
Replaced o2 sensor 3 times
^checkingn compression tmw^
Checked Coolant and Oil
(gas in oil)
A/F gauge (narrowband) reads REALLY rich and after it runs u can smell gas
Checked Fuel pressure (34psi)
Checked a few vacuum lines ( i have a leak (says vacuum gauge))
Checked TPS (voltage )
I am going to take a video!

Modified by DarkBB4 at 4:42 AM 10/21/2005


Modified by DarkBB4 at 8:51 AM 10/23/2005


Modified by DarkBB4 at 6:56 PM 11/1/2005


Modified by DarkBB4 at 6:57 PM 11/1/2005


Modified by DarkBB4 at 6:58 PM 11/1/2005

 

try replacing the fuel filter. it's worth a shot.

 

already done.. sry

few months ago

dizzy cap and rotor done recently too

 

Have you checked your injectors?

 

Get an ohm meter on that tps and make sure it is variable all the way to full throttle with no dead spots. Check the reading with the throttle closed and make sure it is to spec. Has someone messed with the Idle screw? If so you need to set base idle. Unplug the IAC and set idle to between 500 and 600RPM. Plug the IAC back in and clear your codes. If idle still fluctuates, you either have a vacuum leak or the outer ring of your Fast Idle Valve has become loose. Take the top off the valve and screw it back down.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PreluderH22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have you checked your injectors?</TD></TR></TABLE>

...and how about the fuel pump?

 

If the car is a manual, unplug the TPS and drive the car. If the bucking goes away it's the TPS if not , plug it back in and clear your codes.

 

how about you unblock the egr....the stock ecu isnt taking a blocked off egr into account for idle control....

get back to us after that....

 

is this at high or low rpm?

my ignitor just went out.....symptoms before hand were what it sounds like you are describing.........i changed plugs, wires, dist. cap, dist. rotor, fuel filter, air filter, cleaned injectors........all for it to crap out on my one day while i am merging onto the interstate.....had it towed in to honda and they said it was my ignitor.

also i had another problem a while back with moisture getting in my ignition system and corroding my contact on my dist cap, wires, and plugs......use dialectric grease on all the seals and clean the contacts

 

EGR is closed at idle and would be no different than a plate. I think, though, that it is better to keep the EGR.

 

Correct EGR only opens during cruise to lower nox. Spits spattles and sputters. Man. This could be so many things. A crank sensor. Fuel pressure, Vaccume leak, TPS sensor out of range, Bad or crack plug(I know you already tested it) Wires arching to block, Ecu taking a crap, timing belt jumped a tooth or two. When car is like this it hasn't bent valves but you can hear the car backfiring into the intake sounds kinda funny.


First a few questions

Car was running perfectly fine before new gas Yes/NO

 

ok the car hesitates/bogs at first start up.. but idle is ok.. after it warms up.. and idle reaches 600-700.. it starts going crazy and stalling when im stopped.. therefore i have to just keep the throttle in and up to bout 2k rpms so it doesnt fluctuate... I will have to get an ohm meter but i know the usdm throttle body is NON movable.. so how would i fix it? ( i have a jdm throttle body too (at my house)?

I will check my spark plugs again..

EGR block off is fine... Its been on there for 8-10 months with no problems..

I will take off the valve cover asap (i have a stripped bolt so it might be a fw days) and check out the timing belt...e


I will also pull the injectors (as i have a spare set too), although \one of teh sparkplugs would be coverd in gas/or different from teh others.. if it was stuck open all teh time...


also i was noticing the car was backfiring mad hard... during normal acceleration today.. like a popping sound.and it was hard to accelerate to 45-50...


please help asap

I will pull the dizzy cap tmw

 

ok to test cyclinder to see if you only have a problem with one cyclinder. Take you injector metal clips off. Get someone to sit in the car start it and idle to 2k rpms or wherever it is smooth. pull one injector clip at a time the motor should sound a little funny after that on all of them. Each time you pull one they should change identically the same (if you can get a good even tone with them plugged in. I wold lean away from timing belt now that you can actually get the car to sound smooth. A timing belt proublem would do It ALLL the time. I'm leaning toward dizzy, injector, plug, or wire. Wish I coul look at your data stream.

Or maybe a map sensor. get the car idleing at the smoooth rpm mark again. unplug one sensor at a time. MAP, TPS, IAT,

 

I agree with Mgags7 - replace that fuel pump........

Check the fuel pressures and all that **** - did you replace your fuel injectors with the ones I sent you?......

 

na i havent replaced them cuz one is broken ..

but 3 r good still..

how do i check the fuel pump... I mean.. if it was broken.. woudn't it be leannn?

 

Why do you think you are running rich?

 

sputtering exhaust, black plugs,, Full rich on my autometer a/f gauge... bogs/hesitation..

I m 100% im running rich


SO i will try unpluggging various sensors 1 at a time.. IF they r broken... u think that it wont change the pitch of the engine?

 

Sounds to me like the MAP sensor. Try that one first

 

no code tho!! no code 3

 

Running very rich will cause a code 43

 

Just try unplugging the map sensor how long will it take.

 

What injectors do you have in the car and what ECU do you have in the car.

 

Man where are you located I'm coming to your house!!!!

 

Why would his car be perfectly fine and then BOOM his injectors are the wrong size.

 

haha the injectors have to be the right size!

95 h22a1 345cc's i think

usdm p13 STOCK


I will check out the map sensor today and maybe ordera walbro pump if tats te case