Well People have been buggin me that pix that i had on my old thread didnt work very well so this weekend i was doing the headgasket change and i decided to do the write up once again and throw in the timing belt and water pump. So here it goes enjoy.

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Tools needed
Good Torqe Wrench
Rachet with 10, 12, 14, 19 sockets
12mm wrench
Needle nose pliars or channel locks for removing coolant hoses
Flat head screw driver

Step 1
Pull your car onto a level solid service. would not recommend doing this in a gravel driveway. Be sure that your E-Brake Is Engaged. also i put blocks behind the rear tires.




step 2
Jack up the car and place the jackstands in the spot shown.BTW look how straight that damn exhaust is




Step 3
Remove the Negative Battery Terminal. I would do this when doing any work under the hood.

Step 4
Pop the Cap off the Radiator (Do not remove cap if Engine is still hot) Pull the plug on the radiator to flush all the fluid out of the cooling system. Put in a appropriate container and dispose of it properly






Step 5
Remove the 12mm bolts holding on your header and take the header off the car. remove the bolts holding it on to the cat. In my case i just have an exhaust clamp on to be able to remove it quickly to run open header.





Step 6
Take a 19mm rachet and remove the freeze plug located on the front of the block. this will get all of the coolant out from the water jackets



Step 7
Remove the radiator hose from the thermostat housing. pull it up as high as you can to get all of the coolant out(picture 1)
while your in that area unplug the distributor connector.
Also remove the coolant hose going into the bottom of the intake manifold (picture 2)




Step 8
unplug the following things
Upper radiator hose
other coolant hose going into the side of the head
water temperature sensor
Vtec Solenoid
lol and i forget what the other 2 are but u see the red dots










Step 9
Time to get ready to take the intake manifold off. but before we can do that we have to remove a few things
Remove the throttle cable from the throttle body. and remove the 2 10mm bolts holding it to the intake manifold
take off the vaccum line in the front of the manifold. u will see the
take off the vaccum line on the far right back of the manifold.
take off the coolant line that goes to the IACV
unpluge the map sensor, Tps sensor, IACV sensor
Take off your Fuel return line from your Fuel pressure regulator
remove the fuel line that is connected to the Fuel filter. be sure not to loose the washers!!!!. place the end of the fuel line into a sandwich baggy and put another baggy around it and zip tie so you do not spill fuel everwhere.







Step 10.
You do not have to do this if you are not getting the head resurfaced.
use a 12 mm wrench and remove the bolts holding on the intake manifold.

Step 11
remove the spark plug wires and remove the 10mm Valve cover bolts and remove the Vent tube going from your Valve cover to your Intake.







Step 12
This is where it gets fun
Be sure the engine is at TDC on the cams and crank. Line up the white line on the crank pulley with the timing mark on your lower timing cover.
be sure the Cams lines are lined up straight from each other and the cam gears are marked up






Step 13
take a 14mm socket and release the tension on the tensioner. that is located in the lower timing cover right above the crank pulley



step 14.
remove the timing belt. be sure not to jerk it around. you dont wanna mess up the alignment of the teeth.



step 15
I would recommend doing this step as well
take a 19mm and remove the oil pan bolt and let the oil drain out. Since you are doing this might as well change the oil.

Step 16
take a 12mm and remove the 3 bolts holding on the distributor

step 17
Now take a 10mm (yellow) and 12mm (red) and remove the cam cap cover bolts
you need to do this in the following sequence on the 12 mm bolts
1 7 9 5 3
4 6 10 8 2






step 18
now gently pry up the cam caps and remove the cam seals..IMPORTANT YOU MUST KEEP THE CAM CAPS IN THE SAME ORDER!!!!!!!!





Step 19
remove the cams. place them in a plastic wrap and keep a light layer of oil on them put them somewhere will they will not be disturbed.

step 20
Remove the 12mm cylinder head bolts in the following sequence (Or a 1/2" 12point if you have ARP Head Studs.)
1 7 9 5 3
4 6 10 8 2



Step 21
remove the Head. i was doing this solo coming off head studs so this is the best way i can get the head off.




Step 22
use a lint free cloth...i used a microfiber cloth and use some sore of cleaning agent.. in this case i used Sea foam deep creep. and clean the block surface and inspect for any damagaes.

Step 23 (optional but recommended)
Take the head to a machine shop to have it inspected for warpage and have it resurfaced
In my case i shaved off .04"


Now its time to put it back together
Be sure to install the headgasket right. line up all the ports and waterjackets



you it is recommended that you get new head bolts. I did not. i went with ARP Head stud kit $105 from prostreetonline.com. Honda dealer wanted $140 for the 10 head bolts (1 time use only)

Now since that we have the Cylinder head off and some extra room to work lets get that damn timing belt and water pump changed.


Step 1. place a jack under the oil pan and lift it til you feel some resistance from the oil pan.



Step 2. Remove the 3 motor mount bolts 2 (14mm) 1 (17mm)





Step 3 Remove the 10mm bolts off the lower Timing belt cover i believe there is 6 of them



Step 4. Now its time to get that damn Crank pulley off. It was 3 in the morning so the Impact was out of the question for me. So i had to stick a pry bar between the flywheel and tranny and wedged the handle against the motor. then took a breaker bar and put a Pole on it and broke the Bolt loose.






Step 5. Now you can remove the crank pulley and lower timing belt cover.. NOTE!!! DO NOT LOOSE THE KEYWAY FOR THE CRANK PULLEY



Step 6 Now pull offf the Old Timing belt. and throw it away or keep it for a back up your choice

Step 7 Take a 14mm rachet and remove the 14mm bolt on the Tensioner. then take a pair of needle nose pliars and remove the Spring on the tensioner.




On the Left we have our Old Tensioner and spring. on the right brand new OEM honda tensioner and spring from ProstreetOnline.



Step 8. Take your 10mm and remove the 5 10mm bolts holding on the waterpump.



Step 9 Remove the water pump.



Step 10 Now install your gasket on your new water pump and install it the opposite way you removed it.



Step 11 Install your new Tensioner. Notice there is a big hole and a little hole on the tensioner. the big hole goes onto a nipple on the block. and the little hole is for the spring.





Step 12. Take your new Timing belt (Also OEM honda From Prostreetonline.com) and install it around the timing gear, water pump, and Tensioner.






Step 13. Now Install your Lower timing belt cover and crank pulley (DONT FORGET THE DAMN KEY WAY!!!!
Now you put your cylinder head back on (Thats if you have take in off)
1,Place head on block and torqe down the head bolts or studs
2,install cams
3. Install Cam Caps in correct order
4 Install Cam Plate and torqe all the bolts down properly
5. NOW triple check and Be sure that the cams are At TDC and the timing marks are lined up. as well as the TDC mark on the crank pully ( white line)


When you install the cam cap cover back on be sure to torqe the 10mm bolts to 7 Ft lbs first
and then torqe the 12 mm bolts to 20 ft lbs in the following sequence be very careful not to torqe them too fast or you will snap a bolt off like i did. do it very slowly.
9 5 1 3 7

8 4 2 6 10

When you are torqing down the headbolts with Honda Head bolts you want to do this in a 3 step form
step one 21 ft lbs then back off 1/2 a turn
step two 42 ft lbs then back off 1/2 a turn
step three 63 ft lbs of torqe and your done
this must be done in the following sequence

9 5 1 3 7

8 4 2 6 10

Now just do everything backwards. You might want to replace the intake manifold and exhaust manifold gasket while your at it. and put your fluids in last

This has been another JDMLyfeStyle write up Im out. Lata bitches

JDMLyfeStyle



Modified by JDMlyfestyle at 4:55 PM 6/22/2006

 

Damn that is a good staight-forward write up.
Thanks

 

Very nice right up

 

here is another one for you earl

 

You skipped the hard part. Lining up the timing belt. Alot of people have problems keeping everything lined up when its installed.

 

i never have an issue with lining up the timing marks.. and its kind of hard to do that with a picture. i loaned out my camera to a friend so i couldnt get video.

 

Yeah there definitaly a technique to it. Im just saying a novice would have trouble with this step.

 

ive done quite a few headgasket changes in my garage and never really had issue doing the timing line up.

But one tip i can give is..

Before you install the timing belt onto the cams. Line up the 2 cam gears together so that the lines are straight.

Then i turn the exhaust cam back 1-2 teeth off counter clockwise off the intake cam.

then take the timingbelt and install it first on the exhaust cam and then turn the exhaust cam back so that it lines up with the intake cam and then install the belt onto the intake cam then tighten the tensioner. rotate the crank 4-5 complete turns and check the tension of the belt all the way around

 

Very nice right up.. Things like this improve h-t

 

Im always down to improve honda tech

 

wow that was a great writeup

67 pictures are worth 67x1000 words

 

very nice write up......lots of pix...keep it up...i know some people r gonna be usin this DIY

 

nice job it must of took forever to load all the pics. you might want to put a note in about the o-ring and dowelpin under the center cam cap.

 

ya 75 pix is alot of loading. thank god for DSL

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">step 15
I would recommend doing this step as well
take a 19mm and remove the oil pan bolt and let the oil drain out. Since you are doing this might as well change the oil.</TD></TR></TABLE>

isnt that a 17mm ??

 

Mines 19.. i think its because its Spoooooon Magnetic

 

you do realize you havea nasty crack on your header at the #3 cylinder right? otherwise good writeup

 

Its not a crack. its the shitty coating flaking off.. so its still good.

 

ah ok... i was like Dayum, thats a big crack. lol

 

when u said something i ran outside right away to look but it was all good..lol

 

i VOTE STICKY iT earl...

 

Hmm sticky Eh

 

NICE writeup...STICKY plzzzzzzzzzzz

 

More votes for sticky?

 

stick it ....and then go replace your oil pump so you can do the same thing, and I have some reference. Nevermind I'll just do my first how-to thread, but with less pics My camera sux though