I know their crap, but I like the look. Has anyone else that has had them had problems with the halo/angel eye LED's burning out? Both of mine died within 6weeks. I've got them hooked up to my running lights (black & red wires on turn signal harness), but on the Civic's, they stay on whenever the headlights are on. Are they supposed to be wired separately so that you only turn them on when you want them to (like fog lights)? Is it bad that they flash with my alarm actuation? I thought LED's are supposed to last a long time (years). If I wired them correctly, is there a way to change out the LED's? Help.

Thanks!

 

dude, you gotta mount resistors on them. then they will last.

And for petes sake. Wire them seperatly! to an own switch or something.

These are LEDS! they are not ment to be runned on the regular electrical network. resistorsresistorsresistorsresistors

 

How much voltage are the LED's supposed to get (so that I know what size resistor to use)? Thanks!

 

any pic's? any how to on how to install these in my 90 si i just got a set also

 

ask the manufacturer. If this is a serious set of Angel Eyes there should be a detailed description with it. Im suprised there wasnt resistors with the lights.

 

there is a way to change the LED bulbs...i saw a write up on club civic one time...if i can find it ill send you the link

 

i have done it, i had the ebay jdm blackhouse angel eye projectors.

i'm sorry i don't have pics no more as i formatted my hd and i no longer have pics.
but here are some steps.

1. remove all metal brackets from the back of the headlight assembly.
2. bake in the oven, don't remember what heat tempature, but hot enough to melt the glue but not too long in the oven to melt the plastic (mine is plastic in the front).
3. now that you've baked the assembly in the oven remove the front plastic piece.
4. now if i remember correctly their are now 3 pieces, the backing plate and then the blackhoused piece and the front clear plastic.
5. remove the blackhoused piece as it just comes off, espically when its nice and warm the glue is very soft you cna just pry it off.
6. once you have the black piece removed you can access the halo ring. there's a phillips screw right behind the ring, i believe there is two screws. unscrew them and out pops the halo ring, its like half shapped and hollowed through out.
7. now that you have the ring out, it might be still warm, remove the led's as they are easy to come off at this point sicne the glue that is holding the led is soft as well.
8. get new led's i opted to get hyper white and they were rated at 3v, i'm no electrician so i told the person that i need a resistor to resist 12v into 3v since 12v is what your car runs on. each halo holds 2 led's each. i bought 4 and i bought 4 resistors as well. i just went on the safe side and put a resistor per led.
9. once you've selected yoru led's your going to have to cut the poles shorter if you haven't notticed already from removing the existing led's. just remember which pole is the positive side though, since they are going to be equal lengths. now solder the resistor to the led's and attach the power and ground cable.
10. once thats done, place hte led's back in place inside the halo and assemble everythinb back together in reverse order.

i hope this helps. if you hvae any further questions feel free to im me or email me at nautica_t@hotmail.com and i'll try to answer your questions.

it has been over a year and half now since i've completed this job and they are still running like a champ.
they are connected to my corners, however, they keything is though, they are ran off a relay, so the corners only act as a switch but otherwise i'm running constant 12v from the battery. and a relay only cost like 2-3 bux. and it'll last forever.
sorry i don't have pics of the process, but i can take a pic of the end result.

good luck.

 

Awesome description...who needs pictures. I just sent you an email with the following questions:

1) If you put resistors in line, what does the relay do? Are your halo's still on every time your parking or headlights are on?

2) When you were looking for new LED's, did you notice if all were rated for 3V or 5V, or did you see some for 12V as well? I'm wondering if mine didn't come with resistors because they are rated for 12V. I assume that you replaced yours because your first set burnt out prematurely without resistors.

3) Do you have any leakage problems after breaking and resealing the glue joint? Did you add more glue?

Thanks!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2xtrme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1) If you put resistors in line, what does the relay do? Are your halo's still on every time your parking or headlights are on?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i put a relay in there just in case the fluctuation in voltage from the corners lights was causing the premature blow out, but appearantly most people end up burning there led's prematurly no matter what source.
what the relay does is allows the power from the corner lights to act as a switch to turn my halo's on. so when i turn the first click it powers the relay and the relay switches the circuit so that the halo's turn on from the battery. so instead of getting power from the corners i'm using the corners as a switch to turn on the halo's but using the battery power as a more consistant 12v.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2xtrme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
2) When you were looking for new LED's, did you notice if all were rated for 3V or 5V, or did you see some for 12V as well? I'm wondering if mine didn't come with resistors because they are rated for 12V. I assume that you replaced yours because your first set burnt out prematurely without resistors.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

actually when i did pop it open, i did see some resistors however i dont' understand why they burned, perhaps they were the wrong resistant, it had an improper ohm. to properly resist 12v.
led's usually come in 3v or 5v, and that will pend on what kind of a brightness you wnat and how big the led is as well. i haven't personally seen 12v led's but if you do find those than you won't need resistors, however any voltage you go is fine as long as you have a matching resistor to accompany the proper voltage. so if you get a 3v your going to need a resistor to resist 12v to 3v or vice versa 12v to 5v.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2xtrme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
3) Do you have any leakage problems after breaking and resealing the glue joint? Did you add more glue?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

so far no leakage problems, didn't have to add more glue, but what i do recommend is when you do put it in the oven, monitor your headlights, don't leave them in for too long, if i remember correctly i had it sent to 350 degrees. typical baking tempature and i allowed the oven to get hot first before putting it in. i left it in for about 5 mins. and than i slowly pry'd off the plastic, upon prying off you'll see that the glue doens't really dicipate it kinda just stretches. but there is enough sufficient glue there, if you feel that its necessary than you can always grab mor eglue or use silicone when your done, but there's enough glue there to reseal, just heat it up again, and press them back to gether, just becareful upon removal that way you can save more glue, you'll know what i'm talking about when you start removing it..

decided to post here, that way everybody else can get tips as well.

 

Perfect, thanks!

 

If they burned out in 6 weeks and you have to open them up to change the resistor value, this seems like a poor product.

 

Yeah, no doubt in my mind that they are a poor product. Too bad they look so good (they fit perfect after a few modifications ). They did actually give me warranty replacements for their new version. However, I fear hooking the halo's up just so they can burn out in another few weeks. I'm not even sure if there are any resistors in them. It would have been nice for them to include instructions.

Anyone out there actually tear apart one-piece headlights made by Sonar to see if there are any resistors inside? It would be ideal if someone could tell me the resistor value currently inside so that I could add an appropriate resistor in series without doing the oven bake tear-down on a brand new set of lights. If I get the value, I can do the math to bring it below 3V. The relay thing sounds like a good precaution too.

 

i had halo's in my civic for over a year with no problems at all except for the one of the headlight bulbs burnt out. i had the halo's wired to the turn signals so they were on all the time. they worked great for me the whole time i had them.

 

Were they made by Sonar, and did you have resistors wired into them? Thanks!

 

yeah they are made by sonar.

 

If anyone is interested, they do make 12V blue LED's, but they are about 1" long and about 0.4" in diameter (won't fit in the halo's). You can find them at http://www.digikey.com.

 

To answer this question once and for all, here are the specifics. Sonar angel eyes use 2 blue LED's and a 240ohm resistor all wired in series INSIDE the housing. This creates about a 50mA current draw per halo. Since most blue LED's are rated for 10 or 20mA, I believe that they are being overpowered. There are some rated for 25-30mA, but are less common and I doubt are used since mine burnt out in less than a month (I even found a red LED rated for 50mA, but no blue). To fix this problem, a larger resistor should be wired in series in addition for each halo (this can be done outside the housing). To bring the current draw to about 10mA, a total of 1200ohms should be used. I put a 960ohm resistor in mine, and wired each pair of halos in parallel after this additional resistor (bringing me to 1100ohms total). The halo's are still plenty bright, and should now last for many years. Time will tell for sure.

 

wow this is perfect as im about to rebuild mine. i was wondering why after i wired the halos to the parking lights they where all dif brightnesses and then started flickering and then one by one they just went out... also the proj bulb adjuster is all fucked up so i gotta do alot of work to em. this is great info

im pretty sure mine are sonar... your saying they DO come with blue leds not white?
so i should buy the same leds but just a new relay/resistor to replace the over powering stock ones?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HatchEh2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was wondering why after i wired the halos to the parking lights they where all dif brightnesses and then started flickering and then one by one they just went out</TD></TR></TABLE>

Mine died the exact same way. I thought it was a loose connection when it started flickering, but confirmed it to be solid. Then when the other one started flickering, I knew it was going to die too. This must be how all LED's fail after a life of overpowerment.

I didn't use any relays with my new LED's, just the resistors, and they are still working great. The SONAR's do come with blue LED's, but you could make them white if you want. Technically, the blue isn't legal in the US, but I havent had any hassles with the police. They look white when the headlights are on anyway since their beams get reflected into the fiber optic ring as well. Choose LED's with the color of your choice, the EXACT same size, and the highest current rating you can find. LED's rated for 20mA give some margin, but the resistors I specified bring the current to 10mA so the LED should at least be rated for this (I think most or all of them are).

Remember that if you have two halo's per headlight and are using 10mA LED's, they should be wired in parallel with the resistor in series upstream. The way I wired mine gives me about 6mA per halo. Good luck!


Modified by 2xtrme at 8:51 AM 11/8/2005


Modified by 2xtrme at 8:53 AM 11/8/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2xtrme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Remember that if you have two halo's per headlight and are using 10mA LED's, they should be wired in parallel with the resistor in series upstream. The way I wired mine gives me about 6mA per halo. Good luck!

</TD></TR></TABLE>


hehe, i think you mean two led's per halo, or you really do have two halo's in each headlight, and i do have sonar as well.

just messing with you 2xtrme

get hids with those projo's and you'll love em more :D hahah

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nautica_t &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

get hids with those projo's and you'll love em more :D hahah
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yupp already found me a set on hidfourm.com i think it is. i guess since they use h1's and not stock h4's like civics it would be alright to order the ones for the honda pilot (h1). im getting the extreme blue (12000k) i think they're like $349.

i have a concern tho... would that be too hot and cook the plastic cover or blacken it??? cuz i have silverstar h1's (4000k) in there now and the plastic is starting to yellow-up.. not much, just VERY little.. 'i' can notice it tho..

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2xtrme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
They look white when the headlights are on anyway since their beams get reflected into the fiber optic ring as well. Choose LED's with the color of your choice, the EXACT same size, and the highest current rating you can find. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i was meaning to ask, did fiber optic rings turn yellowy-brown like they've been chamfered or cooked up after the led's burnt out??? mine got like a burn mark right around where the led's are on the bottom...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2xtrme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LED's rated for 20mA give some margin, but the resistors I specified bring the current to 10mA so the LED should at least be rated for this (I think most or all of them are).

Remember that if you have two halo's per headlight and are using 10mA LED's, they should be wired in parallel with the resistor in series upstream. The way I wired mine gives me about 6mA per halo. Good luck!</TD></TR></TABLE>
my dads a technician.. but we dont get along.. so i teach myself electricals.. i never had to deal with that before (mA) as all i worked on has been neons(not on my car lol), systems, turbo timers, guages, vtec, ecu chipping, and fuel mangament systems.... so if you dont mind me asking..., what is that??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nautica_t &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
hehe, i think you mean two led's per halo, or you really do have two halo's in each headlight
</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, I have two halo's per headlight assembly, 2 LED's in each halo, and two headlights, for a total of 8 LED's.

I'd like to convert to HID's, but the kits are very expensive. My Sylvania Silverstars have a nice HID look, are pretty dang bright, and cost $20/set on ebay.

 

Did you find an entire HID conversion kit for $349? I'm not sure if they would be too hot for these headlights. My Silvania Sylverstars don't seem to be affecting the plastic housing at all. Also, I didn't notice any yellowing of the halo rings from the burnt out LED's.

"mA" stands for milliamps, or 1/1000 of an Amp. This a measure of electrical current that you want to make sure the LED is rated for. The specs for the LED should say something like "absolute maximum ratings: 10mA", "10mA MAX", or "Peak current = 10mA". If you use the 1K ohm resistors, and wire them in series (one for each headlight assembly), you should be good to go since I've never seen one rated for &lt;10mA. Besides, the burnt out LED's were getting 50mA, so this is a huge improvement. Let me know if you need more help.

 

i've been running hid's for well over a year now and nothing is wrong, however you guys have two halo's per headlight, so i'm not 100% sure if it'll melt the halo, but i highly doubt it

i can get mcculloch kits for 300 shipped.
thats what i'm running and oh man are they nice :D
luv em.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2xtrme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you find an entire HID conversion kit for $349? I'm not sure if they would be too hot for these headlights. My Silvania Sylverstars don't seem to be affecting the plastic housing at all. Also, I didn't notice any yellowing of the halo rings from the burnt out LED's.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea its the balist and the bulbs with the wires coming to-and-from the ballist.. my only question is... since the stock civic bulbs are h4's and i have h1's... are the bulb harnesses the same still??? so if i order bulbs for a pilot (h1's) the wire coming out of the balist with the switch harness on the end, would it plug into my factory wire harness like how the sonars do to split into 2 bulbs instead of the factory one?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2xtrme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"mA" stands for milliamps, or 1/1000 of an Amp. This a measure of electrical current that you want to make sure the LED is rated for. The specs for the LED should say something like "absolute maximum ratings: 10mA", "10mA MAX", or "Peak current = 10mA". If you use the 1K ohm resistors, and wire them in series (one for each headlight assembly), you should be good to go since I've never seen one rated for &lt;10mA. Besides, the burnt out LED's were getting 50mA, so this is a huge improvement. Let me know if you need more help.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks for the info, good stuff